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What did you get done on your Stang today????
- Thread starter cmayna
- Start date
bj
Ponyman66
Yak, yak, yak
Got the motivation and decent weather to work on the coupe. I finally got the hole cut in the firewall for the computer harness feed. As simple as doing that sounds, it wasn't (as "simple" things never are!). The hole saw I needed to use had a 1/2" shaft. Of course, I don't have a small 1/2" drill! Fortunately my brother had one and let me borrow it. I also got a large portion of the underside cleaned in preparation for painting and I got the remaining tie down plate cut off. Those things were pretty rusty and the bolts had to be torched off. I took the other one off a short while back, but ran out of oxygen for the "smoke wrench" and had to get my bottle refilled. I'm taking a week off soon and hope to have the floor pan and engine compartment in paint if the weather cooperates!
After the sun went down I worked on getting the steering column modified and ready for paint. I have a '68 collapsible column and a '67 collar. You have to modify the upper tube to relocate the attaching bolt holes. After that I got everything bead blasted and in primer (the column as well as the upper and lower halves of the collar). With this set up I get the collapsible column, the smaller collar so I can use an early style wood grain wheel and have the emergency flasher switch on the column instead of in the glovebox!
After the sun went down I worked on getting the steering column modified and ready for paint. I have a '68 collapsible column and a '67 collar. You have to modify the upper tube to relocate the attaching bolt holes. After that I got everything bead blasted and in primer (the column as well as the upper and lower halves of the collar). With this set up I get the collapsible column, the smaller collar so I can use an early style wood grain wheel and have the emergency flasher switch on the column instead of in the glovebox!
steveh326
Active Member
Woohoo big weekend for me last weekend. got the front and rear suspension and steering all installed, bolted on the wheels and tires and the car is sitting on the ground on it's own as a roller for the 1st time in 4 years. car is sitting too high in the ass end despite the mid-eye springs, so that area is gonna need some attention. next weekend planning on mocking up and fitting the fenders, hood and headlight/grill area. I forgot my camera so all I have is a crappy cell phone pic.
Sluggo
Active Member
Oops,
Hit modify instead of reply and added my post to yours...... :roul
Looking good. As for the rear springs, get it to it's final weight before you change anything. I have mid eyes on mine and it settled to about 3/4 of in inch from where I wanted it. I cut my front springs 1/2 a coil before I put the ac and power steering back in it and wish I'd have waited. It dropped about another 3/8ths in the front. I'm ok with that but now I have to drop the rear a little more to level it out. I don't care too much for the raked look.
Hit modify instead of reply and added my post to yours...... :roul
Looking good. As for the rear springs, get it to it's final weight before you change anything. I have mid eyes on mine and it settled to about 3/4 of in inch from where I wanted it. I cut my front springs 1/2 a coil before I put the ac and power steering back in it and wish I'd have waited. It dropped about another 3/8ths in the front. I'm ok with that but now I have to drop the rear a little more to level it out. I don't care too much for the raked look.
Sluggo
Active Member
Finally finished all my projects getting ready for the national show in Beaumont, Tx.
Here's what I've done since 2/19
Rewired headlights and added relays.
Added a relay to the horns to make up for the voltage drop from the rim blow switch and contacts.
Refurbed the rim blow. Not sure i like the woodgrain. I'll probably redo it after the show.
Deleted the solenoid and wired in a relay.
Rebuilt the evaporator case with new evap, heater core, vacuum motors, hoses, etc
Installed a R-134 ugrade kit under the hood that uses parts that fit like factory.
Installed a 99 Ford contour cooling fan setup with a Flex-a-lite controller.
Converted to Borgeson power steering with the Saginaw pump.
Added a Kenwood KNW-1003 speaker in the dash to get some noise up front.
Upgraded to 160 amp alternator.
Replaced battery
Carpeted trunk.
Made an o-k stamp and stamped the right valve cover.
Added some Autolite details to the battery.
Boxed in the Opentracker roller lower control arms.
Added upgraded strut rods.
Realigned.
Did a little cleaning and detail work along the way.
I need to reroute the rear speaker wires and I think I'm done for a while.
Leaving for Beaumont Friday morning.
Some pics
Here's what I've done since 2/19
Rewired headlights and added relays.
Added a relay to the horns to make up for the voltage drop from the rim blow switch and contacts.
Refurbed the rim blow. Not sure i like the woodgrain. I'll probably redo it after the show.
Deleted the solenoid and wired in a relay.
Rebuilt the evaporator case with new evap, heater core, vacuum motors, hoses, etc
Installed a R-134 ugrade kit under the hood that uses parts that fit like factory.
Installed a 99 Ford contour cooling fan setup with a Flex-a-lite controller.
Converted to Borgeson power steering with the Saginaw pump.
Added a Kenwood KNW-1003 speaker in the dash to get some noise up front.
Upgraded to 160 amp alternator.
Replaced battery
Carpeted trunk.
Made an o-k stamp and stamped the right valve cover.
Added some Autolite details to the battery.
Boxed in the Opentracker roller lower control arms.
Added upgraded strut rods.
Realigned.
Did a little cleaning and detail work along the way.
I need to reroute the rear speaker wires and I think I'm done for a while.
Leaving for Beaumont Friday morning.
Some pics
Over the last week & weekend I pressurized the crankcase with about 20 pounds of air so I could find all the sources of my oil leaks. With it pressurized and a spray bottle filled with soapy water it didn't take long to find a few breaches. The worst ones where the socket head cap screws used to hold the fabricated valve covers down. Fixed that with new bolts, 3 viton orings on each bolt's shank, and a copper washer under the head of the bolt. I still have a breach at the back of the oil pan, but I'm not ready to pull the motor to fix that quite yet.
I also changed both motor mounts to Lakewood muscle mounts. Unfortunately they shifted the motor back about a 1/4" from where I had it originally which created new interferences with the upper intake and cowl lip. That was with a 1" phenolic spacer installed. With the spacer removed there is interference between the throttle body and the tall valve covers. It looks like a 1/2" spacer will lower the manifold enough to prevent any interferences.
I'm ordering a new spacer and also two new hiem joints for my 4 link rear suspension. The lower links use polyurethane bushed ends. One end has a threaded adjuster and a lock nut to set the length. Due to the articulation of the rear, the links need to twist (minimally). The urethane is too rigid and can cause the end link to loosen the locknut every 1000 miles or so. I'm replacing the urethane bushed endlinks with hiem joints whose balls are vitually unrestricted, so this shouldn't be an issue any more.
I also changed both motor mounts to Lakewood muscle mounts. Unfortunately they shifted the motor back about a 1/4" from where I had it originally which created new interferences with the upper intake and cowl lip. That was with a 1" phenolic spacer installed. With the spacer removed there is interference between the throttle body and the tall valve covers. It looks like a 1/2" spacer will lower the manifold enough to prevent any interferences.
I'm ordering a new spacer and also two new hiem joints for my 4 link rear suspension. The lower links use polyurethane bushed ends. One end has a threaded adjuster and a lock nut to set the length. Due to the articulation of the rear, the links need to twist (minimally). The urethane is too rigid and can cause the end link to loosen the locknut every 1000 miles or so. I'm replacing the urethane bushed endlinks with hiem joints whose balls are vitually unrestricted, so this shouldn't be an issue any more.
Sluggo
Active Member
"Larry G" said:
Yes I'm happy with it. It took some work to fit it though. It was intended for a car without fold down seat. I had to cut a piece off and make a couple parts from the remnant. If you don't have a fold down it should go right in. I wish the covers for the taillights were molded instead of sewed together triangles but once it's all installed it's not too bad looking.
MD69Boss
Suspected Troll
"Sluggo" said:
Your trunk carpeting looks great! I am interested in the same, can you provide some additional details on vendor, part # etc...? If you have a separate thread with this info, I apologize in advance...
On the Boss, I have washed and waxed, detailed and adjusted, (again), the accelerator pump arm...she is officially ready for the Knotts road trip :yah
Sluggo
Active Member
"MD69Boss" said:
I got it from NPD. There is a post earlier in this thread http://www.stangfix.com/testforum2/index.php/topic,14341.msg233546.html#msg233546
