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SELLERODSHOP fabrication help?

tarafied1

Well-Known Member
I'm making these modified fuel fillers and it takes a lot of time hand fabricating the plates with tin snips. Do you have a plasma cutter and would it work for what I'm doing?
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what guage metal is that??? i have a plasma, but also have a couple other methods & tools that may cut alot cleaner without all the edge cleanup needed after a plasma cut.

get me a pattern & let me know what guage (looks like 18 in the pics) & i'll see what works best...
 
it's 20 gauge, .0375"
I could come by with this one before I weld it. I drill the hole in a drill press and hand cut it. Then grind and grind until it fits. Takes almost hour to make one disk and I am getting a lot of requests for these. I only ask for shipping cost to cover sending it back so I'm looking to save a little time. I hate to cause you more work but I knew you have skills and a nice shop!
 
Cool Craig, I forgot you was an injuneer...I envy folks that know AutoCAD. BTW I know a guy whose brother owns a CNC plasma...probably way too heavy duty for what you need tho.
 
got the pdf, so have a good idea what you need. would it be best if i cut them just a c-hair larger in diameter so you can sand em down to fit each pipe. looks like the overall diameter is a hair over 2.25" with the 7/8" center hole & the notches in the lower half. how far down the pipe from the filler flange are you cutting the slot? may use mine as a test piece to get everything correct.
 
Craig and Steve, if you guys need any parts shuttled back/forth I'll be seeing Craig on May 1st at Beach Bend if you need me to swap parts for ya'll.
Jon
 
"SELLERSRODSHOP" said:
got the pdf, so have a good idea what you need. would it be best if i cut them just a c-hair larger in diameter so you can sand em down to fit each pipe. looks like the overall diameter is a hair over 2.25" with the 7/8" center hole & the notches in the lower half. how far down the pipe from the filler flange are you cutting the slot? may use mine as a test piece to get everything correct.
C-hair big would be cool, each filler is slightly different. The OD is roughly 2.25" they aren't perfectly round. I am cutting just about half way so I can get the disk in and fill the ID and I cut about a 1" wide slot in the bottom for support. This way if you really smack it good with the nozzle it won't bend. The smaller radius is to match the ID of the pipe. I'm cutting about 1.4" from the flange just because my sawzall can't get any closer. 3/4" would be better I think cause the tube is still pretty round but then the shape I have drawn might not fit.

"gotstang" said:
Cool Craig, I forgot you was an injuneer...I envy folks that know AutoCAD. BTW I know a guy whose brother owns a CNC plasma...probably way too heavy duty for what you need tho.
I'm open to anything. I am drilling the hole in a drill press. I have to mount the plate to a block of would so it won't wobble out the hole (early models look horrible). then hand cut, grind, cut, grind, etc. If I could have a bunch of disks roughly close I could crank these out pretty fast. I know electrician's have hole punch/cutters for panels that might work better and faster for the hole. I may look into one of those if I can get the right size. The drill bit I bought is perfect size to keep tight against the nozzle if it doesn't wobble (sorry to all the Ginny pigs who got early one's) My biggest issue I guess is I really don't have the right tools!
 
"Jonk67" said:
Craig and Steve, if you guys need any parts shuttled back/forth I'll be seeing Craig on May 1st at Beach Bend if you need me to swap parts for ya'll.
Jon
thanks Jon!
 
I was going to mention a hole saw. You may have to redrill the center hole to the size you want but they come in a variety of different sizes.
 
Yeah, I tried the hole saw too, problem is drilling sheet metal. When you get close to breaking thru the metal flexes and the hole is not really round. I have found if I mount it to a block of wood the pilot drill or drill bit is still drilling into something as it breaks thru the metal and the wood supports the metal from flexing. Just another step. I have to drill the hole first cause I screw the sheet to the wood and clamp the wood to the drill press. A punch would be so much quicker and I could do it after I make the disk and it would be easier to put the hole where I want it.
 
Craig, knockout punches are "cheap" from McMaster, $50 for a 1" unit. Might be a useful tool? Just stick a rachet on em and volia, nice round hole.
 
I have a metal punch that I used for electrical boxes way back when. You drill a 1/4" in the metal then you use the punch to make the hole clean every time. THe size never changes and its a perfect circle. Now the outside would be a bit of a pain but if its 7/8" I will see if I have the right size and I can send it to you. I have not used the damn things since I got my degree way back in the 80s and they are just sitting in a well oiled box under my tool table.
 
those punches are nice. had the opportunity to use those a couple times & they work great!

craig, with the offsets on the insert, it might be a good idea to get one to me to use as a pattern that i can hold in my hand. some of those figures are going to be hard to replicate like the .1039 & .1339. would be easier for me if i had one in hand.
 
"Fordication" said:
I have a metal punch that I used for electrical boxes way back when. You drill a 1/4" in the metal then you use the punch to make the hole clean every time. THe size never changes and its a perfect circle. Now the outside would be a bit of a pain but if its 7/8" I will see if I have the right size and I can send it to you. I have not used the damn things since I got my degree way back in the 80s and they are just sitting in a well oiled box under my tool table.

cool, thanks...it is 7/8"
"SELLERSRODSHOP" said:
those punches are nice. had the opportunity to use those a couple times & they work great!

craig, with the offsets on the insert, it might be a good idea to get one to me to use as a pattern that i can hold in my hand. some of those figures are going to be hard to replicate like the .1039 & .1339. would be easier for me if i had one in hand.
Okay, I'll try to get it to you this week. Thanks again...
 
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