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Mach1Mark's '65 coupe restomod
- Thread starter Mach1Mark
- Start date
Spent a couple hours this afternoon finish trimming the new outer wheelhouse, rough trimmed quarter panel replacement skin, cleaned panel seams in trunk for new sealer, installed door hinges. Also stopped @ Mustangs Unlimited and bought a full set of 1965 assembly manuals.
monkeystash
Active Member
Looks great Mark! Of all the possible patches, that easily looks the most difficult.
"Sluggo" said:
Thank you for your support, I'm having a lot of fun working on my old friend . . .
I'd heard that magic marker/permanent marker and anytihng else not primer or paint needs to be removed before you proceed. That has happened.
Had a minor setback recently, the parts of the body that ere stripped with bicarbonate didnt get neutralized sufficiently and the primer was literally flaking off those parts. Sooooo . . . for the past few times Ive been at the shop ive been stripping paint and neutralizing the sheet metal. The good news is the professional painter I have hired started skimming the doors and quarter panels last Sunday. He seems to be really on fire for my job. He actlually LIKES to paint black cars so this may work out really well as far as getting a super straight and right body before any paint goes on.
Headlight bucket repair - complete. The very thin and weak original tab was a design flaw from new. This one has been broken the entire time Ive owned the Colt. I was going to use some special low temp solder to build up and re-attach the tab . . . until I found this really slick repair kit in a major Mustang parts house catalog. Pot metal plate and JB weld, $40+s/h. A little on the spendy side but a new bucket is ~$130. Simple and effective
This afternoon we stripped the new primer (that was not staying put) from the metal dash and 'A' pillars, neutralized the metal where the soda was used to strip paint and dryed the area. Tom worked on stripping more primer from the inside face of one of the doors and neutralized the soda-stripped metal. Also, I tested the outside of the roof for soda and found the primer to be firmly 'stuck' to the metal so that concludes the soda remediation. I finished the day by building a new rack for hanging body parts so they can be painted off the car.
"Midlife" said:
Using bicarbonate soda has several benefits (although some might say its expensive, the cost is relative) paint removal is clean with no metal warpage (none) and the remaining residue protects the bare metal from flash rusting for a week or more. It is VERY important to neutralize the soda film BEFORE primer is applied. Both the media stripper and the primer vender (in this case SPI) recommend using Simple Green or Purple Power applied directly to the stripped areas, scrub with a brush or scuff pad and rinse. Repeat two or three times. If this process is not followed the primer will be unable to adhere to the bare metal properly and as I found out flake off. The good news is that I had not yet applied the base color or clear so my loss is minimal except for the time and a little more primer.
"Ponyman66" said:
Thank you for your support. Its been a real learning experience for me and Im really enjoying it.
The great thing about SPI (other than the great products) is that you can call their tech line even on the weekend an they answer the phone. I too, got my products in one day. make you you read the instructions a couple of times, once you mix in the activator let the paint/activator mixture 'cook' for 30 minutes before you pour it into your gun and apply it in addition to the metal surface instructions and you will have no problems.
monkeystash
Active Member
That's going to look sweet with Vintage Burgandy!