• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Mach1Mark's '65 coupe restomod

Began welding in the pass side patch panel. Also, removed the temporary cart and raised the body on to some saw horses to install the sub frame connectors and primer/paint the underside. Driver side floor is ready for patch panel to be welded in.
 

Attachments

  • Pass floor fixed (2).JPG
    706.3 KB · Views: 44
  • Pass floor fixed (1).JPG
    536.1 KB · Views: 41
  • Driver floor holes.JPG
    846.6 KB · Views: 38
  • Sawhorse (1).JPG
    651.1 KB · Views: 38
  • Sawhorse (2).JPG
    634.7 KB · Views: 40
  • Sawhorse3.JPG
    521.7 KB · Views: 36
Yesterday and today welded some holes under the rear seat closed and ground smooth (two for childseat and 5-6 for exhaust hangers). Welded in the drive side floor pan repair panels.
 

Attachments

  • Welding repairs 07072012 (1).JPG
    867 KB · Views: 33
  • Welding repairs 07072012 (2).JPG
    666.4 KB · Views: 31
  • Welding repairs 07072012 (3).JPG
    675.1 KB · Views: 26
  • Welding repairs 07072012 (4).JPG
    707.7 KB · Views: 28
  • Welding repairs 07072012 (6).JPG
    867.6 KB · Views: 27
Weld repairs of the former battery cable penetrations (when battery was located in the trunk). And some holes in the trunk for mounting a stereo amp.
 

Attachments

  • Welding repairs 07072012 (7).JPG
    684.4 KB · Views: 20
  • Welding repairs 07072012 (8).JPG
    645.3 KB · Views: 25
  • Welding repairs 07072012 (9).JPG
    614.8 KB · Views: 23
  • Welding repairs 07072012 (5).JPG
    824.3 KB · Views: 17
Today removed the roll bar main hoop support pads. They were reeeeeeeally stubborn to remove. Now, the carpet will lay down and fit the floor in the rear seat and I can once again install the quarter trim panels.

Ground some more spot welds.
 
Bought some metal filler yesterday (Metal2metal by Evercoat) to fill the C pillar seam that was exposed during the media stripping. The lead seam was removed in 1984 when the entire quarter panel was replaced due to an accident (not me driving). So far the mixing and application have been straightforward. This stuff is touted as the next best thing to real lead. More layers in the next few days.
 
Yesterday went to a scrap yard and found a piece of 0.125" plate steel to make some shock tower reinforcing plates. Cost: $1.50. Tried to make a trip to NPD Charlotte but turned around due to really bad weather.
 
Today, I bead blasted, straightened and primered the plate I bought yesterday. I applied a third coat of Metal2metal to the C pillar and a little more to the new floor pans in an effort to level the floor, drilled spot welds in the driver side rear wheel opening and then cut the rusty part of the quarter panel.
 
Last Sunday went to NPD-Charlotte and dropped another wad on needed parts (i.e. driver fender, rear valance, export brace, 22 gal fuel tank, door panels, kick panels). Bought the interior pieces so I can match the interior paint to the door panels and paint all the interior pieces at one time.
 
Yesterday spent all afternoon sanding rust off the bottom side of the floor pans. Its been bare metal since I moved the Colt from the media stripper to the repair shop. Also spread a little more metal2metal on the C pillar.
 
Today I shot SPI epoxy primer on the underside. Found out a gravity feed paint gun isnt the best choice for the job. Slopped quite a bit on myself, the floor and myself.
 
I sure wish you accomplished all this work when you lived 10 minutes from me. ;)

Looking good buddy and damn nice progress.
 
"monkeystash" said:
I sure wish you accomplished all this work when you lived 10 minutes from me. ;)

Looking good buddy and damn nice progress.

Me too, Ryan. I'd be driving the Colt right now if I had been able to. Thanks for the props. I am having a lot of fun and looking forward to getting him back on the street frightening children and giving women of a certain age wet panties.
 
Began applying seam sealer under the passenger floorpan, in the cowl area, in the engine compartment and under the dash. Used one (1) Eastwood brand caulk tube full. I knew I would need more but I didnt want to have three or four tubes of the stuff if it was not a good product. I also have a quart of 3M brushable seam sealer to use one the seams are full.

The SPI black epoxy primer I ordered on Monday arrived today. I'm going to use it to cover the engine compartment and underside.
 
At the shop this afternoon we cut out and welded in place the shock tower reinforcing plates, applied more seam sealer, sanded the C pillar metal filler, trimmed more metal from the driver side quarter an filled some holes in the engine compartment. Pics tomorrow.
 
Laid some SPI black epoxy primer on the outside of the engine bay (over the reinforcing plates). Test fitted the new, repro export brace from NPD. Perfect fit. $60.
 
Did some final grinding, trimming and bending of the new torque boxes. They should be welded in place on friday.
 
Welded both new torque boxes in today (pics tomorrow). Pass side went in easier than driver side. Applied more seam sealer to the bottom side.
 
Scotch brited the last of the bare metal in the passenger compartment this morning and applied some SPI black epoxy primer. Should be about all that is needed in the interior for now.

Applied same primer to the underside over the gray primer. The black primer should be the final coating for the underside. Still need to spray the engine compartment but there are a few little things that need attention before that.
 
Looking good Mark. I have SPI black epoxy primer I am going to shoot on the underside of my coupe. From your pics it looks like it lays down a little on the semi gloss side. Is that so, or is it just from light reflection against newly laid down primer?
 
"Ponyman66" said:
Looking good Mark. I have SPI black epoxy primer I am going to shoot on the underside of my coupe. From your pics it looks like it lays down a little on the semi gloss side. Is that so, or is it just from light reflection against newly laid down primer?

Thanks for your comment. I would say that semi gloss is accurate. You can flatten the finish a little by adding some reducer. PM me for details or call Barry or Andy. I also talked to Rusty for some of his wisdom.
 
Back
Top