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Had some me time
- Thread starter B67FSTB
- Start date
And sometimes you need to work it a bit once you're finished chatting it up!
Aussie67
Well-Known Member
There are some threads on VFM on dimensions.
www.vintage-mustang.com
Complete Floor Pan
Hey all, Just joined and could use some advice. After doing some research about replacing multiple frame parts on my 1967 coupe I decided to go with a complete floor pan. Seems like it would be easier and more accurate. Looking at this...
www.vintage-mustang.com
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Still looking of how the full floor sits/fits and how I can stretch the full floor pan in the width.
I also noticed that the tunnel support was a bit deformed. ( Due to its previous accident )
Once I know how to , I can mark everything beneath the floor and pull the floor out of the car. Drill all the holes and prepare the area with weld through primer.
Seems the tunnel has to be widthen/spread to reach the rockers.
I presume this has to be done due to the stamping of sheetmetal.
Also I think of making some relief cut front and rear on top of the tunnel.
Note , its not a dynacorn part.
I also noticed that the tunnel support was a bit deformed. ( Due to its previous accident )
Once I know how to , I can mark everything beneath the floor and pull the floor out of the car. Drill all the holes and prepare the area with weld through primer.
Seems the tunnel has to be widthen/spread to reach the rockers.
I presume this has to be done due to the stamping of sheetmetal.
Also I think of making some relief cut front and rear on top of the tunnel.
Note , its not a dynacorn part.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
See #300.
You can see that the rear edge of the tunnel is bent inwards due to the stamping of that edge.
Above, it sits nearly flush with the rear part but when you look at the underside, there is a gap all around. Thats why I think I need to cut a relief cut.
In front its another story. I gonna make a wooden block that sits on the shift opening , make a center hole in it and push a thread rod through . That way I can compress the front of the tunnel and hope it fits better to the tunnel support and firewall.
You can see that the rear edge of the tunnel is bent inwards due to the stamping of that edge.
Above, it sits nearly flush with the rear part but when you look at the underside, there is a gap all around. Thats why I think I need to cut a relief cut.
In front its another story. I gonna make a wooden block that sits on the shift opening , make a center hole in it and push a thread rod through . That way I can compress the front of the tunnel and hope it fits better to the tunnel support and firewall.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Progress is slow , cause I don't want to make a mistake. Compressing the front of the floorpan is a good idea. Now I know I have to alter the tunnel support a bit more to the right to sit flush with the floorpan. Remember the car had a right front collision and the tunnel support got a bit of a hit I guess.
It also stretches the floorpan in its width which I need.
I made a relief cut on top on the rear of the tunnel . Better.
I mounted some hooks beneath the floorpan at the seatbel attaching point. So I can pull the floorpan outwards and backwards. I am fighting here 5mm.
Never done such things so this job will take awhile and a lot of thinking is involved of how to tackle some problems. And watching youtube of course.
It also stretches the floorpan in its width which I need.
I made a relief cut on top on the rear of the tunnel . Better.
I mounted some hooks beneath the floorpan at the seatbel attaching point. So I can pull the floorpan outwards and backwards. I am fighting here 5mm.
Never done such things so this job will take awhile and a lot of thinking is involved of how to tackle some problems. And watching youtube of course.
Attachments
Some advice from a guy who is just wrapping up making the bottom half of a car from scratch. Not everything has to be or likely will be perfect. What matters most is that the body is square enough that the glass fits in, the doors can open and close with decent gaps and the thing tracks straight going down the road. If the trans tunnel is a few mm off center in some spot or the seat risers are both perfectly aligned not only will not matter but will never be noticed. Don't do it because it will drive you crazy after but if you went and started to take measurements and scrutinize your other mustang I'm willing to bet you would find all kinds of things aren't "right". These things weren't made in the manufacturing environment of modern factories.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Thanks Terry. Yes ,I know but the car had a front right collision and the tunnel support had have a hit. I did cut it out of the crushed floor and corrected it as good as I thought it should , yet I had to smash it a bit more to the right when it was installed between the front floor rail and the floor went in the first time.
At that moment it didn't fit quite right in the rear also and found out that the tunnel support kept it front fitting right after securing it with straps and rods
Also the stamping of the full floor has made that piece a bit small sideways/width. The more I try to fit it , the more I understand what going on with the stamping of that piece.
The complete floor still has to move more to the back .Hope I can move it about 5mm (>3/16inch) .That would be ideal and would start the welding work.
Another problem is that the right rocker is slightly bent ( due to the hit/accident) . Noticed this when the floor was in position. But that will be for later I guess.
And then its time for the seatpans ! Wonder what they have to say ???
My dad worked as a foreman at Ford in Belgium in the late 60's and early 70's. He was responsible for the body assembling line. He told me stories of the problems with parts but also with the workers who didn't always close the clamps which holds the parts in place before welding.
At that time , my uncle ordered a stationwagon at a ford dealership and my dad could find out which VIN that car would get. He scramble all the best parts together and when the vin came out the telex machine , he threw up the floor on the assembling line together with all the parts. "the car fel together without a hassle , he said.
And the beauty of all of this is , I can see a assembling fault on my fastback also. All orignal but yet the trunklid to lower rear window panel doesn't fit as it should.
B.
At that moment it didn't fit quite right in the rear also and found out that the tunnel support kept it front fitting right after securing it with straps and rods
Also the stamping of the full floor has made that piece a bit small sideways/width. The more I try to fit it , the more I understand what going on with the stamping of that piece.
The complete floor still has to move more to the back .Hope I can move it about 5mm (>3/16inch) .That would be ideal and would start the welding work.
Another problem is that the right rocker is slightly bent ( due to the hit/accident) . Noticed this when the floor was in position. But that will be for later I guess.
And then its time for the seatpans ! Wonder what they have to say ???
My dad worked as a foreman at Ford in Belgium in the late 60's and early 70's. He was responsible for the body assembling line. He told me stories of the problems with parts but also with the workers who didn't always close the clamps which holds the parts in place before welding.
At that time , my uncle ordered a stationwagon at a ford dealership and my dad could find out which VIN that car would get. He scramble all the best parts together and when the vin came out the telex machine , he threw up the floor on the assembling line together with all the parts. "the car fel together without a hassle , he said.
And the beauty of all of this is , I can see a assembling fault on my fastback also. All orignal but yet the trunklid to lower rear window panel doesn't fit as it should.
B.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Well , haven't done this before , so I am very carefully when it comes to welding in this floorpan. I hate undoing stuff.
I know there are gaps between floorpan and support from factory but want to do this as perfect as possible...to my grade.
Right now I am not working on the fastback. I need to improve some rooms in our house. 2 bedrooms and a hallway. New tiles and paint on the walls , ceiling and lightning. Building a wall closet in the master bedroom.
Just wanted to post some pics to keep the thread alive.
I know there are gaps between floorpan and support from factory but want to do this as perfect as possible...to my grade.
Right now I am not working on the fastback. I need to improve some rooms in our house. 2 bedrooms and a hallway. New tiles and paint on the walls , ceiling and lightning. Building a wall closet in the master bedroom.
Just wanted to post some pics to keep the thread alive.