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Current crop of repro fuel tank sending units - update please

JeffTepper

Well-Known Member
69 Mach 1 received a new 20 gallon stainless steel fuel tank and unknown brand sending unit about 10 years ago before I was recruited to become the "riding mechanic". While the fuel gauge did provide a reading, it was never particularly accurate below 1/4 tank. Gauge now reads "Empty" 100% of the time. Oil pressure and engine temp gauges appear to function normally so the CVR is not likely part of the current problem. Testing the fuel gauge by grounding out the sending wire at the tank results in a "Full" reading at the gauge. While replacing the float will likely bring back some functionality to the gauge, I am also taking this opportunity to bring back a higher level of accuracy to the gauge function.

Looking at the current crop of repro units, the general concensus seems that most are not particularly reliable or accurate. I am targeting those of you with some recent experience with one or another of the current offerings to help narrow the field and increase the odds of a positive outcome.

Rick's NPD catalog currently carries a few different repros for the 20 gallon tanks including one being sold under the Scott Drake brand name that is described as:

"These are the best made and most accurate stainless senders currently available."

Any recent real world experience (positive or negative) any of you would like to share? Thanks in advance!
 
For me , I don't care if the fuel tank is full.
I want to know when ih is nearly empty.
As for that particular sending unit...no clue. Sorry Jeff.
 
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From everything I've read on the forums, the general consensus is to find a NOS Ford unit. Seems it may cost you an arm and a leg though.



John
 
To clarify, the sending unit in the Mach 1 now is NOT an oem piece, the OEM unit is long gone and buying a used sender of unknown heritage and having it rebuilt now seems like something a concours car deserves. This one is a driver and as Bruno suggests the last 1/4 tank is the range that matters.
Circling back around, has anyone tried any of the current crop of repro senders and have any opinon as to reliability and accuracy??

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Back a few years Craig made a test tank set=up for the senders. I was switching to a 20gal tank (I think) and my gauge never worked. We went through multi units. Found one that he calibrated and installed it.
Worked. Almost. As time went on it started to return to the usual. Sort of worked.

I just keep a check of mileage and use the gauge as a very inaccurate reminder.
 
I just keep a check of mileage and use the gauge as a very inaccurate reminder.
Best advice on this subject.

A sender is simply a variable resistor. As the float arm moves with fluid level change, it mechanically alters the connection point of an electrical circuit along a metal piece which lengthens or shortens the physical distance voltage has to traverse this piece raising or lowering the resistance which alters the voltage level fed back to the gauge. It is about as simple as it gets. One can look at the design structure of the unit to see if one seems more robust or made of better materials than another to try and pick the "best one". I'd bet just about anything the cheap materials they use today along with likely lighter gauge metals lead to mechanical issues of operation. Maybe even corrosion or simply wear is more prone as well on the things today. Wonder too if the ethanol mix causes more of the same problems.

I went to using floatless units in my stuff. Very accurate and does away with all the problems associated with the old float set-ups. My mustang has run one for some 7 years or so now without issue. TanksInc is where I get them.
 
Best advice on this subject.

A sender is simply a variable resistor. As the float arm moves with fluid level change, it mechanically alters the connection point of an electrical circuit along a metal piece which lengthens or shortens the physical distance voltage has to traverse this piece raising or lowering the resistance which alters the voltage level fed back to the gauge. It is about as simple as it gets. One can look at the design structure of the unit to see if one seems more robust or made of better materials than another to try and pick the "best one". I'd bet just about anything the cheap materials they use today along with likely lighter gauge metals lead to mechanical issues of operation. Maybe even corrosion or simply wear is more prone as well on the things today. Wonder too if the ethanol mix causes more of the same problems.

I went to using floatless units in my stuff. Very accurate and does away with all the problems associated with the old float set-ups. My mustang has run one for some 7 years or so now without issue. TanksInc is where I get them.
Wish that your simple technical take translated into easy availability in the aftermarket to senders that were even remotely accurate.
Hasn’t been my experience, nor others. Mustang senders are about the only item you literally have to get NOS (or have them rebuilt apparently by someone who knows what they are doing).

I have no idea why this is such a mystery to the aftermarket as far as being able to supply a sender that’s worth a….

Mustangs are not alone in this regard. Anything with a King Seeley gauge seems to be an issue to get an aftermarket sender that works.
I had to take a NOS ’48 car sender and mod the float arm to get something that worked on my ’48 truck. The truck part is literally unobtanium and the aftermarket….. sucks.
 
Bill Basore's the guy from Desert Classic Industries who pretty much wrote the book on fuel senders. He's got some really good how-to's, as well as explaining why the aftermarket industry apparently seems to be in the "I wear Crocs and I'm not allowed to play with the remote" stage of life.

Though they are on the surface a very simple device, as with many things, subtle aspects of their design make a pretty big difference. Heck, many of these companies don't even seem to understand that with different tank sizes, you need a different length of float arm!
 
I've had NPD's 9275-1H, paired with a linear AutoMeter fuel level gauge, for several years now and I believe the combo is very accurate. Not sure if they offer an equivalent non-linear version to match an OEM gauge.
 
Mustangs are not alone in this regard. Anything with a King Seeley gauge seems to be an issue to get an aftermarket sender that works.
Same with the air-cooled VW community. The fuel gauges are also 10-73 ohm units and the aftermarket just can't seem to come up with a combination to provide an accurate reading at the fuel gauge. In our 74 Super Beetle, we just rely on the odometer because the gauge is all over the place.
 
FWIW: For my 69 with 20 gallon w/o low warning light. I have tried several reproduction fuel sending units and had even had one C9WY-9275-A rebuilt by Basore. None are/were accurate. Just learned of a new and improved NPD sender that may be accurate. Anyone tried one? Brian

 
Same with the air-cooled VW community. The fuel gauges are also 10-73 ohm units and the aftermarket just can't seem to come up with a combination to provide an accurate reading at the fuel gauge. In our 74 Super Beetle, we just rely on the odometer because the gauge is all over the place.
Interesting. No NOS senders available for a reasonable amount, I assume?
 
From everything I've read on the forums, the general consensus is to find a NOS Ford unit. Seems it may cost you an arm and a leg though.
As stated above, find an NOS or rebuilt OEM sending unit. There's a guy in AZ that rebuilds them (forgot his name)
I just went through this with my 70. New tank and sending unit. Gauge was tested and working.
The repro stuff is hit or miss. Mine was a miss. Purchased through NPD but I'm not blaming them for the issue.
Ended up with a rebuilt OEM Ford unit. Works great.
 
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