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Had some me time

The right way? You first mounted them facing backwards???

Looks good.
 
As a kid I remember sitting in the rear facing seat of our 59 Plymouth station wagon with my friends. We saw a guy weaving through traffic, who zipped by us. I told the guys that he was going to get in an accident, and sure enough a few minutes later we passed the wreck. I guess that proves the old adage that hind sight is 100%.
 
Ok. 4 weeks after my surgery , I could walk with one crutch . Its now 6 weeks and finally could do some work. Serviced some cars and had to dissambled my 9inch rearend cause I need to know the seize of the carrier bearings..I am planning to put in a Eaton True Trac with 3.50 gears. This rear end is for the red fastback which will get the 351W of the teststand together with a AOD.
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Glad to hear you're back to getting around, Bruno.

I'd suggest you go with a bit more gear. 3.70-3.80 range depending on gear supplier. Maybe even up to a 4.11 to get some real go off the line. As long as you have an overdrive gear in the transmission, why not? There are plenty of online calculators to figure what kind of RPM you'd be pulling at highway speeds just need to know gearing and tire size. I can tell you that in my mustang blasting down the interstate 70-80 mph is a very comfortable rpm. And when I feel the need to stretch its legs a bit (and I REALLY stretch 'em) the RPM is still easy on the engine. I intend to do a gear swap in it when the truck is up and going to move from the current 3.80 to at least a 4.11
 
Terry.
I know what you mean but buying fuel at $6.3 / gallon , I am looking for a more "economical" solution.



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Yesterday I submerged the pumpkin in a mixture of gasoline and diesel. Today I gave it a brush to clean it up. Will take a few days to get it clean so I can take it apart.


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Hmmm...gas and diesel might make the pumpkin pie taste a bit funny...
 
This pumpkin.79f0cc3250c30abca14d917187c092ba.jpg

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Today I tried to assemble the ring gear on the true trac diff. The ring and pinion are orignal Ford parts. Came to the conclusion that the bolts are too long. About 1/16.1c8b399f90cc6b4d36ff59996c3d7e79.jpga6d713fdb550773d4b3e16f698b01684.jpg

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Used all the bolts to pull the ring gear onto the diff.c2576718421ca721cfd963b1b655addf.jpg926f5c5b0dcc1be022e9324b1765f584.jpg

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Today I dissambled the old ring gear , cleaned the bolts and noticed they are shorter but also bulkier.
I used the old ones (all 10 ) to pull the ring gear onto its place.
Should I use the old bolts ( left ) or shorten the new ones ( right) ?
I am leaning to the orignal bolts.
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The old bolts are reuseable...so reuse them.

Speaking of bolts. Here's a tip for all. NEVER believe the internet or anyone else for that matter when determining which size/type fastener you need for a task. Measure and verify on the actual part(s). While waiting for my blower snout, coupler and pulleys to arrive I used the good ole Web to figure out what fasteners I needed and ended up spending about $100 on three ARP bolt sets that I soon found out were not correct for my needs. Since it would cost about half that to send them back to the various suppliers they are now added to my ever growing pile of ARP bolts. I should open a store.

And why do they always come in packs of 5 when everything you ever need to do needs 6?! It's the old hot dogs and buns situation all over again.

Sorry for the hijack, Bruno
 
OK. I will reuse them.
And no problem. Its a good thing to take the opportunity to ventilate . Its healthy !!!
[emoji12]

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Got some time to bolt the ring gear.
Made a "construction " to bolt to specs.8433b7aa032f9eb0a2c2b1d378100804.jpg

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Today I prepared the diff housing. Due to an old school guy at youtube , it is wise to do so. So I did !

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