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Another Project - 71 Torino

Latest look with all the upgrades.
  • Air Shocks with 100 PSI loaded
  • Replaced Valance
  • Lip Spoiler
  • Angel Eye LEDS wired
  • Installed a Glove Box
  • Installed Door Sills
  • Replaced Passenger Blinker Lens
  • Replaced Driver Fender Side Marker
 
  • New Door Locks
  • New Strikers
  • LED Tail Bulbs
  • Door Panels
  • Blacked out and Installed Trunk Inserts
  • Painted and Install Kick Panels
  • Windshield Installed
  • A Pillars Painted and Installed
  • 3D printed Sill/Wire Covers
  • Console Shifter Plate Screwed On
  • Shifter Lever fixed and Attached
  • Installed The heater Box
  • Installed the passenger side air box/heater connection's
  • Installed New Tail Light Bulb Sockets
  • Installed Dash Bezel End Caps
  • Zip Ties Wires Tidy Under the Dash
  • Zip Tied broken E Brake Line

Also took her for an hour drive to see if she would overheat or anything. Only issue ive really found is about 70 she gets some weird shakes
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Don't rule it out cause a slightly unbalanced driveshaft does act like that. Or wheel/tire .

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk
 
i took it for another drive today and if i push it up to 80 the vibration dulls back down atleast
 
Since you brought it up I'm guessing the "shake" is not minor. I'd spend the time to try and figure it out. Check to see if maybe you lost some wheel weights. They like to use those self-adhesive type now and if they don't clean the wheel well they are known to come off. Bad things can happen left unchecked.
 
Horseplay said:
Since you brought it up I'm guessing the "shake" is not minor. I'd spend the time to try and figure it out. Check to see if maybe you lost some wheel weights. They like to use those self-adhesive type now and if they don't clean the wheel well they are known to come off. Bad things can happen left unchecked.
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that is the plan. I may even swap wheels from the 69 stang to try

I started today swapping out the thermostat (192 for a 180) and thermostat housing.
It was well due and now it stays about 20 degrees cooler on a long drive.

I then drove her for another hour working out the gremlins. Still shakes around 64-70 mph pretty weirdly but once you get to 80 it calms down. I also discovered i get about 10 MPG or a lot of smiles per gallon.

I proceeded to fix a few more thing:

Hooked up the heater controls/wiring....Have to fix the lever though as the broke free but the fan works
Installed and tested the Windshield Washer Hoses
Zip Tied the Speedo cable somewhere it wont bother me since my Speedo is GPS
Tested the Front Shocks and it seems the passenger side is real stiff so i ordered new ones
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I changed the wheels out yesterday and it seemed to dull the shake down. I also made sure to air all the tires up to 40 PSI (50 PSI Max tires). I also found that the drive shaft was occasionally catch a screw from the Shifter surround....It was a very small groover in the U join it was catching so it could possibly be what was causing it, even though i doubt it.....But i removed that screw and will need to do another run to see if anything has changed.
 
Put 172 miles on it today, it still shakes bit but not nearly like it was. I Dropped the PSI on the rear down to 50 PSI and the Tires to 37. I also removed a screw that may occassionaly have been scraping the U joint. Super fun to drive and at 60mph it is as smooth as butter
 
Have you done a front end alignment on it? Could be the blame for the shimmy but even if not before you do any real distance driving its kind of a must or you could eat up that front rubber pretty quick.
 
Horseplay said:
Have you done a front end alignment on it? Could be the blame for the shimmy but even if not before you do any real distance driving its kind of a must or you could eat up that front rubber pretty quick.
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I have UCAs, LCAs, Shocks, Springs, and Coil Saddles next on the agenda to go in
 
Todays Find:
Shocks - SHOT
Coil Spring Saddles - SHOT
UCA - Have Granda Bushing and Actual Decent, Look a bit dry
Driver Side Mising Bump Stop
620 Drop Springs - Look SHORT AF

Im Considering putting just the New Saddles, 620 Springs, and Shocks in and seeing how it sits...Especially with how bad the shocks were

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Never judge a spring just by appearance. Those old stokers might not only be "lighter" duty but also weakened with age. They might just accordion with only a little weight as compared to the new shorter, stronger springs. As long as you're in there I'd take a good long look at those UCA and LCA bushings etc. Whole lot easier to do it all now when the springs are already out. Once and done for a very long time. Not really a big expense either.
 
Horseplay said:
Never judge a spring just by appearance. Those old stokers might not only be "lighter" duty but also weakened with age. They might just accordion with only a little weight as compared to the new shorter, stronger springs. As long as you're in there I'd take a good long look at those UCA and LCA bushings etc. Whole lot easier to do it all now when the springs are already out. Once and done for a very long time. Not really a big expense either.
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Oh ive already ordered all the parts and ive done this all before on the previous mustangs....Just fighting it all really but youre right.....I just need to bite the bullet

Its just been awhile since ive done them....Gonna have to get the pickle fork back out....
 
Full font suspension in minus the new sway bar bushings and end links i should get in tonight.

Got dialed in my Caster and Camber To -.25 ish degrees camber and 2 - 2.5 ish caster.

So basically New:
  1. Moog UCAs
  2. Moog LCAs
  3. Grab a Track 1" 620 Lowering Springs
  4. Moog LCA Caster/Camber Bolts
  5. KYB KG4505 Gas-a-Just Gas Shock
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Your numbers are both on the light to very light side. Usually want something more like -.75 minimum on the camber and the caster is about half where I'd like it. Suspension movement can negate such a low camber and push it positive. You can run a lot more caster without any issues but being that low you will not get could return to center typically. I treat 4 degrees as the minimum when I set something up. I think I'm closer to 7 on my mustang, if memory serves.

If you are just getting it close to take to a shop for a proper alignment your numbers are good for that.
 
Ive always just got alignment specs based on Dazed Cars Information and usually worked well for me.

Please align to these specs “1967-1970 Mustang, Falcon & Cougar Performance Alignment with or without Shelby drop”.

These specifications are in order of importance.

1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.

2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.

3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.

4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in

If you run into any problems attaining these specs, please call me (your phone number here).
 
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