LNimoy
Member
My 1966 basically stock 289 4V coupe suffered a severe underdash wiring harness failure 3 years ago.
2 years ago I purchased a harness from Midlife. (Exceptional man to deal with.)
Due to back and hip issues I was not able to install it until mid July of this year.
I have checked everything under the dash and "believe" everything is hooked up properly.
I went to attempt the initial startup last weekend and encountered a few problems.
#1, The engine did not crank over when the ignition switch was turned to the start position.
#2. The carb was overflowing fuel through the secondary vent tube.
I removed the carb, Holley 80457, removed both bowls and cleaned everything out with carb cleaner.
I adjusted the float level on the secondaries and reinstalled the carb with a new intake manifold gasket.
I replaced the fuel filter. I installed new points, condenser, cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
Battery has a full charge. New battery terminal ends. Engine to chassis ground is good.
I jumped the starter by crossing the battery side of the solenoid to the S terminal.
The car eventually started but was running extremely rough. It back fired through the card once before starting.
It continued to run rough and was around 1500 RPM.s. It would not idle.
I hooked up my timing light (inductive pickup) and the timing was jumping all over, by 20 degrees or so.
I pulled the #1 plug and brought the engine to TDC on the compression stroke and it was on TDC on the balancer with the pointer.
Removed the cap and insured that the rotor was pointing to the #1 plug. Verified the correct timing order and all plug wires are correct.
I put the #1 plug into the wire and held it to the shock tower while turning it over via the solenoid. It had a weak spark.
Also, the brand new plug seemed to be carbon fouled. I cleaned it, but not the others yet.
Reinstalled the plug and started it again. My timing light didn't seem to be firing all the time.
I tried to adjust the timing but it was still all over the place. I couldn't get it within 5 degrees of spec.
I don't know if that is a symptom of my problem, or my timing light is bad. I will be borrowing one from a friend this week.
I hooked up my dwell meter, but the car wouldn't start again. Dwell showed 30 degrees while cranking it over.
I don't know if you can check dwell this way, just cranking, but I did anyway.
After days on the internet, this is my plan in no particular order.
Triple check my underdash wiring.
Check resistance on the PINK wire. (I only have an analog multimeter.)
Check the resistance on my coil for specs .7 to 1.7 OHMs on the primary side and 7,500 to 10,500 on the secondary.
Check voltage at the coil when the key is ON, 6 - 12 volts depending on the points being opened or closed.
I can remove the cap and open and close the points by moving the rotor on and off the distributor lobe..
Check resistance and continuity on the wire from the S post of the solenoid to the distributor.
Check my ignition switch for 12 Volts on the center post with the switch ON. I am sure this is fine as I can jump the Solenoid.
Check ignition switch for proper voltage in ON and START positions using the picture below.
I'll take the wire from the S terminal off the Solenoid and check for 12 Volts in the START position.
Verify that my Neutral Safety Switch is hooked up and test it at my ignition switch. (Anyone know the easiest way to do this?).
Remove and clean all my plugs. Bring to TDC on compression. Verify rotor positioned to #1 wire on cap.
Hook up borrowed timing light and dwell meter. Attempt to start.
Questions.
Have I missed anything?
Will a dwell meter show dwell angle while the engine is just cranking?
Can a carburetor that may not be 100% perfect affect timing that much? ( I am ordering a complete rebuild kit this week).
Any specific wire(s) under the dash that I should look for that would cause no voltage to the S post on the Solenoid?
I've been focusing the ignition switch as the cause of this problem.
Sorry for such a long post.
Thank you for any and all help.
John
2 years ago I purchased a harness from Midlife. (Exceptional man to deal with.)
Due to back and hip issues I was not able to install it until mid July of this year.
I have checked everything under the dash and "believe" everything is hooked up properly.
I went to attempt the initial startup last weekend and encountered a few problems.
#1, The engine did not crank over when the ignition switch was turned to the start position.
#2. The carb was overflowing fuel through the secondary vent tube.
I removed the carb, Holley 80457, removed both bowls and cleaned everything out with carb cleaner.
I adjusted the float level on the secondaries and reinstalled the carb with a new intake manifold gasket.
I replaced the fuel filter. I installed new points, condenser, cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
Battery has a full charge. New battery terminal ends. Engine to chassis ground is good.
I jumped the starter by crossing the battery side of the solenoid to the S terminal.
The car eventually started but was running extremely rough. It back fired through the card once before starting.
It continued to run rough and was around 1500 RPM.s. It would not idle.
I hooked up my timing light (inductive pickup) and the timing was jumping all over, by 20 degrees or so.
I pulled the #1 plug and brought the engine to TDC on the compression stroke and it was on TDC on the balancer with the pointer.
Removed the cap and insured that the rotor was pointing to the #1 plug. Verified the correct timing order and all plug wires are correct.
I put the #1 plug into the wire and held it to the shock tower while turning it over via the solenoid. It had a weak spark.
Also, the brand new plug seemed to be carbon fouled. I cleaned it, but not the others yet.
Reinstalled the plug and started it again. My timing light didn't seem to be firing all the time.
I tried to adjust the timing but it was still all over the place. I couldn't get it within 5 degrees of spec.
I don't know if that is a symptom of my problem, or my timing light is bad. I will be borrowing one from a friend this week.
I hooked up my dwell meter, but the car wouldn't start again. Dwell showed 30 degrees while cranking it over.
I don't know if you can check dwell this way, just cranking, but I did anyway.
After days on the internet, this is my plan in no particular order.
Triple check my underdash wiring.
Check resistance on the PINK wire. (I only have an analog multimeter.)
Check the resistance on my coil for specs .7 to 1.7 OHMs on the primary side and 7,500 to 10,500 on the secondary.
Check voltage at the coil when the key is ON, 6 - 12 volts depending on the points being opened or closed.
I can remove the cap and open and close the points by moving the rotor on and off the distributor lobe..
Check resistance and continuity on the wire from the S post of the solenoid to the distributor.
Check my ignition switch for 12 Volts on the center post with the switch ON. I am sure this is fine as I can jump the Solenoid.
Check ignition switch for proper voltage in ON and START positions using the picture below.
I'll take the wire from the S terminal off the Solenoid and check for 12 Volts in the START position.
Verify that my Neutral Safety Switch is hooked up and test it at my ignition switch. (Anyone know the easiest way to do this?).
Remove and clean all my plugs. Bring to TDC on compression. Verify rotor positioned to #1 wire on cap.
Hook up borrowed timing light and dwell meter. Attempt to start.
Questions.
Have I missed anything?
Will a dwell meter show dwell angle while the engine is just cranking?
Can a carburetor that may not be 100% perfect affect timing that much? ( I am ordering a complete rebuild kit this week).
Any specific wire(s) under the dash that I should look for that would cause no voltage to the S post on the Solenoid?
I've been focusing the ignition switch as the cause of this problem.
Sorry for such a long post.
Thank you for any and all help.
John