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What did you get done on your Stang today????
- Thread starter cmayna
- Start date
Ponyman66
Yak, yak, yak
Finally got the auto. shifter assembly for the coupe project restored and reassembled. Once it and the trans are back into the car I'll still need to modify the linkage attachment point on the arm. Due to not being able to find an original shift lever with good chrome I broke down and bought a Scott Drake repop. I gotta say it looks good, installed perfectly and adjusted easily.
So I have started to spray the underside of my car with a bed liner product. I am using UPOL's Raptor liner. As much as I knew I wanted to do this I was very apprehensive to actually do it. My car as it sits was blasted to bare metal and then covered in black 2K epoxy inside and out. The underside is still in that epoxy and looks so awesome (top side is already in paint). This was a rust free car to start with so the metal floor pans, rails and such look virgin. OK, there are a couple little dents here or there from a poorly placed jack but other that that it is great. Others warned that spraying it in liner may make it look like I was trying to hide something. Conversely, I really wanted the protection the liner would provide along with an additional level of some noise control. As I am known to do, I hemmed, I hawwed...screw it, I started to spray.
The Raptor product is a two component material. It comes in bottles to which you add a specific amount of hardener, shake well and then spray with their "gun" which screws right onto the product bottle. Very slick actually. The only issue with it this way is that you have to make a certain "batch" amount.
I used one of the four bottles in the kit I purchased to do the front end (outer aprons, shock towers and rails). I put on two coats here for added protection from the tires kicking up rocks, etc. I also sprayed the outer shock tower covers. When finished I ended up with about a quarter bottle I ended up tossing. I wasn't ready to spray elsewhere at the time. I probably could have also covered the underside side of the fenders had I tried. Should give you some idea of what a bottle will get you.
I ended up setting my air pressure at 45 psi to get the pattern and weight I was after. The stuff sprays really well considering how thick it is. I made just a few practice passes on a piece of cardboard before hitting the car. I am pretty familiar with a spray gun (painted my car) but I think just about anyone could spray this stuff. Keep a steady distance and consistent movement and you'll be fine. Laid out nice and even, gave good coverage without any heavy build-up or such. Clean up was easy too. I just poured some Acetone in a can, set the gun pick-up into it and sprayed it clean quickly. I will say you need to clean it right away as when it sets up it is like tar pretty fast.
Turned out just how I had hoped. You can see every overlapping edge of the original metal so no "hiding" stuff with it which eased my fears about a future sale. Then again I will never sell but anyway... The texture is great. The heaviness of it should help deflect rocks and dampen noise across the panel too. All said and done, very happy I went through with it. The underside should look great for a VERY long time wearing this stuff.
The Raptor product is a two component material. It comes in bottles to which you add a specific amount of hardener, shake well and then spray with their "gun" which screws right onto the product bottle. Very slick actually. The only issue with it this way is that you have to make a certain "batch" amount.
I used one of the four bottles in the kit I purchased to do the front end (outer aprons, shock towers and rails). I put on two coats here for added protection from the tires kicking up rocks, etc. I also sprayed the outer shock tower covers. When finished I ended up with about a quarter bottle I ended up tossing. I wasn't ready to spray elsewhere at the time. I probably could have also covered the underside side of the fenders had I tried. Should give you some idea of what a bottle will get you.
I ended up setting my air pressure at 45 psi to get the pattern and weight I was after. The stuff sprays really well considering how thick it is. I made just a few practice passes on a piece of cardboard before hitting the car. I am pretty familiar with a spray gun (painted my car) but I think just about anyone could spray this stuff. Keep a steady distance and consistent movement and you'll be fine. Laid out nice and even, gave good coverage without any heavy build-up or such. Clean up was easy too. I just poured some Acetone in a can, set the gun pick-up into it and sprayed it clean quickly. I will say you need to clean it right away as when it sets up it is like tar pretty fast.
Turned out just how I had hoped. You can see every overlapping edge of the original metal so no "hiding" stuff with it which eased my fears about a future sale. Then again I will never sell but anyway... The texture is great. The heaviness of it should help deflect rocks and dampen noise across the panel too. All said and done, very happy I went through with it. The underside should look great for a VERY long time wearing this stuff.
Last edited:
mustangstofear
Active Member
We use it all the time, it works excellent.
Grabber70Mach
Well-Known Member
Looks good, nice job.
From infinity and beyond
From infinity and beyond
I registered my convertible with 1968 license plates, the first time it's had current registration since 1985. Took her out for a legal drive around the neighborhood.
This weekend, I'm going to line up all the panels and will drive it without nice paint for a while.
I might even have yellow matched and flattened paint mixed to spray the replacement sheet metal and leave it beater style.
This weekend, I'm going to line up all the panels and will drive it without nice paint for a while.
I might even have yellow matched and flattened paint mixed to spray the replacement sheet metal and leave it beater style.
Fast68back
Guest
Where's the pics Dave?
Fast68back
Guest
Headlights are overrated
Ponyman66
Yak, yak, yak
Finally had good weather around here to allow me to drag out the sand blaster. I got the wheels for the coupe blasted, prepped and painted. Now I can take them down to get the new rubber mounted!
I had five rims I was going to do even though I only needed four. I noticed one of them was a later model rim with a different center around the stud holes. Although four of them came off of my old '68 when I swapped over to the '68 styled rims, one turned out to be off something from '71! Thankfully I noticed and had that fifth rim (I have a space saver for the spare).
I had five rims I was going to do even though I only needed four. I noticed one of them was a later model rim with a different center around the stud holes. Although four of them came off of my old '68 when I swapped over to the '68 styled rims, one turned out to be off something from '71! Thankfully I noticed and had that fifth rim (I have a space saver for the spare).
Ponyman66
Yak, yak, yak
Actually, many people HAVE seen pics of my car..and on HERE! Or at least, they USED to be on here. During the previous revamp of the site many were lost with the server change over. I then posted more updates and those all disappeared with the latest revamp. Nanny nanny nanny (not that I'm being juvenile or anything...LOL).
GypsyR
just some guy
I hate this thread. I don't read it but I see it updating all the time which means OTHER people are actually doing something, anything to their cars. Well I finally shook loose and did something.
Had the Scott Drake roller clutch pedal conversion in the package on the front of the car so it would be obvious and annoy me by existing every time I went out in the garage. After six months of that I finally threw down on it. Seems pretty good. My instructions totally left out any mention of replacing the pin in the clutch pedal. Possibly there was supposed to be three instead of two pages? They said welding was optional. IMHO welding is mandatory or the whole arm assembly would jack up and down slightly every time you hit the clutch.
I found the pin to be much larger than the hole in my clutch arm. No biggie to me, I ground it down to a tight press-fit and then pressed the hell out of it. Then found it not to be perpendicular to the arm so I had to tweak that. Since I don't have a monster press/peen tool/whatever that Ford used on that pin to keep it stable in the arm I welded the end of it. I did think that anyone expecting a pure bolt-on and without the capability to do more would be pretty pissed off with this kit. I like it though. I thought the price was a tad high at first but I got to thinking if I had to piece it all together from McMaster-Carr I bet it would be pretty close and I'd still have to make parts on the lathe. So it's all good I guess.
Seemed best, so I pulled my '68 column out for the work. Car is a '67. Found the stupid brand-new unused garage queen rubber steering isolator thing had broken where one bolt attaches it. Now how does that happen on a car that hasn't even been driven? Oh well, new ones are cheap and it's half removed already.
Up in the air about the column. Since I installed it I have acquired a raggedy Tbird tilt-away column which I have assured that all I have to do is throw a ton of time and money at and I will have a functioning "Mustang" tilt-away. I've never cared beans about tilt in any car but for some absurd reason I put bolstered seats and an eight point roll cage in this car. With those two factors a tilt-away starts to make loads of sense. And NOW people are retrofitting electric power steering setups which are sorely tempting me. So I don't know what I will do.
Pulled my T5 out too. I originally was going to go with a Z-bar so I attached the fulcrum adapter thingy to the bellhousing. Yanked it off in favor of another bellhousing that I am preparing to use with a home brew hydraulic clutch setup. I might go z-bar with the '69's T5 so bellhousing number one still might be used. Depends on how well this hydraulic setup goes.
Also did a little wiring. Oil and water gauges wires have been hanging for two years. Next time I fire the engine might be good to have those.
Not a whole lot but something. I even did a happy dance. I worked on my car, I worked on my car!
Had the Scott Drake roller clutch pedal conversion in the package on the front of the car so it would be obvious and annoy me by existing every time I went out in the garage. After six months of that I finally threw down on it. Seems pretty good. My instructions totally left out any mention of replacing the pin in the clutch pedal. Possibly there was supposed to be three instead of two pages? They said welding was optional. IMHO welding is mandatory or the whole arm assembly would jack up and down slightly every time you hit the clutch.
I found the pin to be much larger than the hole in my clutch arm. No biggie to me, I ground it down to a tight press-fit and then pressed the hell out of it. Then found it not to be perpendicular to the arm so I had to tweak that. Since I don't have a monster press/peen tool/whatever that Ford used on that pin to keep it stable in the arm I welded the end of it. I did think that anyone expecting a pure bolt-on and without the capability to do more would be pretty pissed off with this kit. I like it though. I thought the price was a tad high at first but I got to thinking if I had to piece it all together from McMaster-Carr I bet it would be pretty close and I'd still have to make parts on the lathe. So it's all good I guess.
Seemed best, so I pulled my '68 column out for the work. Car is a '67. Found the stupid brand-new unused garage queen rubber steering isolator thing had broken where one bolt attaches it. Now how does that happen on a car that hasn't even been driven? Oh well, new ones are cheap and it's half removed already.
Up in the air about the column. Since I installed it I have acquired a raggedy Tbird tilt-away column which I have assured that all I have to do is throw a ton of time and money at and I will have a functioning "Mustang" tilt-away. I've never cared beans about tilt in any car but for some absurd reason I put bolstered seats and an eight point roll cage in this car. With those two factors a tilt-away starts to make loads of sense. And NOW people are retrofitting electric power steering setups which are sorely tempting me. So I don't know what I will do.
Pulled my T5 out too. I originally was going to go with a Z-bar so I attached the fulcrum adapter thingy to the bellhousing. Yanked it off in favor of another bellhousing that I am preparing to use with a home brew hydraulic clutch setup. I might go z-bar with the '69's T5 so bellhousing number one still might be used. Depends on how well this hydraulic setup goes.
Also did a little wiring. Oil and water gauges wires have been hanging for two years. Next time I fire the engine might be good to have those.
Not a whole lot but something. I even did a happy dance. I worked on my car, I worked on my car!