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Unplug wiring under dash.. HAHAHAA!!!

K

Kats66Pny

Active Member
:roul

This is not as easy as it sounds!! Trying to take out my harness and replace it with one from Midlife. Not with the hack job wiring PO did, all the splicing and all that damn electrical tape?!! I can't tell what is original wiring and what isn't its so fracked up under there. :soapboxrant

Ok I ranted. I feel better now. Going back out in the garage now and get some pictures. That way you can see what I'm whining about. Stupid :censored lazy :censored :censored :censored :censored previous owner.
 
:wtf How am I suppose to figure this crap out? It's nothing like '66 wiring diagrams.

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How in the heck do you 'undo' these from the firewall? They are disconnected from the engine bay but they don't just pop out.
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Midlife... do you need the wires going under the dash to the passenger side?
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The rubber is dried out. Lube it up with some silicone spray. Since you got a new harness from Mid, I'd remove all of that mess and start fresh. Install the underdash first and go from there.
 
Yeah.. it's just a little messy. :nut Lubing it up, I was able to get it out of the firewall. :thu Got one side unplugged, but the other side I can't tell if the connector is broke or what, but it doesn't come unplugged.

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"Kats66Pny" said:
Yeah.. it's just a little messy. :nut Lubing it up, I was able to get it out of the firewall. :thu Got one side unplugged, but the other side I can't tell if the connector is broke or what, but it doesn't come unplugged.

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Click to expand...

Yep...it's broken. Pull it out of the female with pliers.
 
I don't see any wire nuts, so it must be good!


What a gawdawful mess. The firewall plugs have 4 little itty-bitty clips that hold it onto the firewall. You may have to get a crescent wrench to press those clips flush with the body. And yes, I want all of the wires going to the passenger side.

I was able to identify the turn signal connector, the headlamp switch, and the ignition switch. Only the turn signal looks un-butchered. I'm likely to just send you a replacement rather than try and repair that mess.
 
Yep....good harness if it has no wire nuts......now....as far as the one you get in return, look for a wool wrap on the wires.
 
Got all that wiring crap out! :yah

Here's the mess... How do I get the lights/bulbs off without breaking them? There are two still attached to the harness.

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Here are some random wires for... hell if I know. LOL Midlife, do you need these as well?

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Looks like of empty behind the dash now. Here's the left over wiring that I figured I would probably need to keep as these are added on in order to connect the kill switches (from left to right on the diamond plate under the ashtray) for the Ignition, Dash lights, Fuel pump. Yes, there was a switch I had to flip to turn on dash lights for the aftermarket gauges. :shrug

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Yes, please...send me those extra wires: they are needed to make your car work.

Light bulbs: use a rubber jar top remover if they are really stuck. Typically, you push down and rotate CCW to remove. Often times, I have to shatter the glass and remove the base with a needle-nose pliers.
 
Light bulbs.....replace all with new...not worth the future headaches.

Do you really want those switches to function again? I would use only the fuel pump shut off and relocate it to a hidden location as a security feature. Also, still wire it work thru the ignition switch so you can leave it to the on position and when you shut off the key, it also shuts off. Also, it should not work in acc.

Then, when you want the extra security, shut off the fuel pump so the car will not start.

Also....Midlife has been known to install mini cameras in the under dash courtesy light bulbs......be careful what you wear.
 
Bastard....letting out my secret! I should release the video of you picking your nose...
 
"AzPete" said:
Do you really want those switches to function again? I would use only the fuel pump shut off and relocate it to a hidden location as a security feature. Also, still wire it work thru the ignition switch so you can leave it to the on position and when you shut off the key, it also shuts off. Also, it should not work in acc.

Then, when you want the extra security, shut off the fuel pump so the car will not start.
Click to expand...

When I have a correct, working harness and put it in with that original 66 dash cluster I won't need a switch to turn on gauge lights. So that takes away one switch. The ignition and fuel pump switches I'm still debating which one I want to eliminate or I want to keep them both. :shrug I also have the battery kill on the rear as well, but that is slightly obvious to see and recognize if a car thief knows anything.

I also think it would be cool to have one or two switches on a custom console like mmw68 did... :confu
http://www.stangfix.com/testforum2/inde ... #msg175453

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Without reading all the gruesome details, can I assume that you are removing all wiring and installing all updated wiring from Midlife?
 
After looking at the pics in the second post, I'm suddenly in the mood for spaghetti :shrug

I think you are doing the right thing sticking with a stock harness setup. Good luck :)
 
BTW, the fourth and fifth pictures are the 1 speed wiper harness and the NSS/backup light harness.

Kat: where's the fuse box??
 
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