Transmission ID

[stump]

I'm hoping with the pictures attached someone can help me ID my transmission. Ultimately, I want to replace the shifter assembly, so is knowing it's a Hurst "Competition Plus" enough?

Thanks, Gary

 

[65fast]

Looks like a Borg Warner T-10.

 

[65fast]

How come you want to replace the shifter? Is it sloppy?

 

[stump]

How come you want to replace the shifter? Is it sloppy?

Not so much "sloppy", but binds up. I'm assuming the shop adjusted it correctly, but with everything else we've discovered, that might be a bad assumption. Actually, replacement might be premature.

 

[65fast]

There are actually three holes on each shifter arm that come out of the control box. If they are adjusted correctly, you should be able to stick a pin through all three holes when in neutral. My rebuilt Hurst Comp Plus came with one of these pins, but you can substitute probably with an Allen key. This might help you out.

I have never adjusted my unit since I got it so I'm no help there, but always check it this way whenever I take it out of the car.

 

[Starfury]

Definitely a T10.

I really doubt you need to actually replace the shifter. They're very rebuildable, and there isn't much inside that can wear out without some serious neglect. Rebuilding isn't a super easy task, but neither is it terribly difficult. My toploader came with a Comp Plus, but both had been sitting in the dirt/sand for the past few years, so I had to partially disassemble and lube the shifter before putting it into use. Now that it's cleaned and greased, it works flawlessly.

Once you get the shifter out, you can take the two steel plates off the sides to gain access to the innards. From there you can move things around to spray everything out with carb cleaner, or you could just soak the thing in carb dip. Once clean, lube liberally with some good synthetic grease. I used and would recommend some good synthetic brake grease. It's sticky, won't run, and is slippery enough to keep the plates sliding freely.

Another thing you'll probably need are new linkage bushings. Mr Gasket (which bought Hurst) has a metal bushing/clip kit that's readily available that will tighten up sloppy linkage ends. Some grease on those bushings before install would help as well.

 

[stump]

There are actually three holes on each shifter arm that come out of the control box. If they are adjusted correctly, you should be able to stick a pin through all three holes when in neutral. My rebuilt Hurst Comp Plus came with one of these pins, but you can substitute probably with an Allen key. This might help you out.

I have never adjusted my unit since I got it so I'm no help there, but always check it this way whenever I take it out of the car.

Thanks! I went by last night and was told they adjusted after checking with the hole alignment.

 

[stump]

Definitely a T10.

I really doubt you need to actually replace the shifter. They're very rebuildable, and there isn't much inside that can wear out without some serious neglect. Rebuilding isn't a super easy task, but neither is it terribly difficult. My toploader came with a Comp Plus, but both had been sitting in the dirt/sand for the past few years, so I had to partially disassemble and lube the shifter before putting it into use. Now that it's cleaned and greased, it works flawlessly.

Once you get the shifter out, you can take the two steel plates off the sides to gain access to the innards. From there you can move things around to spray everything out with carb cleaner, or you could just soak the thing in carb dip. Once clean, lube liberally with some good synthetic grease. I used and would recommend some good synthetic brake grease. It's sticky, won't run, and is slippery enough to keep the plates sliding freely.

Another thing you'll probably need are new linkage bushings. Mr Gasket (which bought Hurst) has a metal bushing/clip kit that's readily available that will tighten up sloppy linkage ends. Some grease on those bushings before install would help as well.

After adjusting it shifted much better, but I think I'll do what you suggest when I get it home. I'm not sure it needs new bushings but it couldn't hurt. Thanks!

 

[Starfury]

It's common to find some linkage ends without bushings at all, with the wrong clips, etc, which is why I mention it. If all the bushings and clips are there and it good shape, just clean and grease them and you'll be good to go.

 

[stump]

It's common to find some linkage ends without bushings at all, with the wrong clips, etc, which is why I mention it. If all the bushings and clips are there and it good shape, just clean and grease them and you'll be good to go.

Do you think the kits are the same regardless of the trans type? Do you have a part number/source for the rebuild kit? I have the car home and backing it out of the garage for a drive yesterday it hung up in reverse. I was able to disengage with the linkage but it did it again. As the shifter is in the car, do you have any hints on getting it out for the rebuild?

Thanks,
Gary

 

[stump]

Confirmed today that it is a B-W T10.

Also discovered that part of the shifter problems could have been from the mounting plate; one bolt loose, the other missing...