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This could be fun... building a drag race car?

tarafied1

Well-Known Member
Okay, I have an idea. Maybe a really bad idea, Let me know what you all think.
As you all know I acquired the 67 POS from Dave with the original intent to make a trailer out of it. Dave stripped it down pretty much to just a shell but threw in the trunk lid and rear valence and tail lights and left the 4 lug 6 banger suspension.
72_25_11_09_8_46_08_1.jpg

Maybe I have been drinking too much one night and thought, "I could build a real cheap Drag car out of this thing"
I have traded a fuel filler (which I still have to make/modify and send out) to Ryan for the trunk hinges and left end cap. I also traded some fuel fillers to janschutz (which I also still have to modify and ship) for a peace to repair some rust in the trunk channel. I also just bought some 68 parts from jrherald420 for pretty good price, (which I plan to go get this week) most of which I don't need but could use on the POS. janschutz is parting out a 67 and is willing to sell a lot of things I might could use/need also. I have in my own stash, the rest of the front clip, two hoods, a back window, one side rear window, bumpers and brackets, and lots of little stuff. I still need doors, a steering column, a 8" or 9" rear, windsheild, the cowl and panel below the rear glass, and I'm sure a lot smaller items I don't have. I can do basic wiring and won't need a full interior. I might try to make it street legal so I won't have to trailer it.
So right now I have very little invested cash.
I have a 1977 351W and C6 in a running motorhome I could strip (it's just sitting in the woods on my dad's property in Eastern KY and now I bought a used 27' camper so I don't need it and it's not worth anything to sell. I live between two drag strips, one in Clarksville is an 1/8th mile and the other in Bowling Green is a 1/4 mile but they do run the 1/8th. SO I was thinking I could slap together a cheap 1/8 mile car to beat-on and have some fun. The POS is rough in some weird places but solid in most of the normally rusty places. I still need a lot of parts and it would take some work but if I continue to collect parts cheap or trades and do all the work myself I wouldn't have a lot into it, it wouldn't be all that quick and it doesn't have to be pretty but it could be a lot of fun. I could paint StangFix.com on the sides since most of it has been made possible by the forum.
What do you all think? Do it or just stick to making a trailer?
 
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Re: This could be fun...

Do it.....and put a tow bar on it to use as a trailer when you need to.....or to tow it to the track with another Mustang. Wonder if you could cut down the RV rear end.......lol Do plexi-glass windows to save weight.
 
Re: This could be fun...

Bwahahahaha! He said "cheap" and "drag car" in the same sentence!

Boy, I want whatever you're drinkin'.
 
Re: This could be fun...

"Midlife" said:
Bwahahahaha! He said "cheap" and "drag car" in the same sentence!

Boy, I want whatever you're drinkin'.
yeah but I didn't say "Fast"
and the Motor home has a 1 ton 8 lug dual wheel rear, that would get lots of traction!

okay, okay so maybe it's a really bad idea, I didn't have anyone sitting around the campfire with me to discuss it (talk me out of it) so I posted here...
 
although I'm only looking at one photo of it on trailer, I say that pony is to nice to cut in half! I say go for the race car! It would be cool if you could find a fiberglass tilt front end for it! I see cheap doors on craigslist all the time.
 
I have the rest of the rusted car those trunk hinges came from....... what else do you need???
 
Craig,

I stripped the car because you were only going to make a trailer out of the back half of the car. If we'd known that the possibility existed that you would make a drag car out of it I could have left all of your missing pieces installed on the car. Whatevers been removed from the car that you need you're welcome to.


Something else to consider.... Drag cars do not need a title. Classic Mustangs without titles can usually be had very cheaply. You could probably find an untitled NON RUSTY car out west for $500-600. Although fixing the rust issues on the '67 POS is possible, it's likely that you'll spend a lot more than $5-600 to do it.
 
Dave brings up some good points! I wouldnt abandon the trailer idea yet either..... Now that your trunk is full of stereo equipment, you'll need the extra room. :pbj
 
Re: This could be fun...

"tarafied1" said:
yeah but I didn't say "Fast"

Two simple truths. No drag car is cheap and a slow drag car is no fun.

Having said that, I still vote you go for it. No mustang should have it's days ended to be hacked up and used as a trailer.
 
Re: This could be fun...

"Horseplay" said:
Two simple truths. No drag car is cheap and a slow drag car is no fun.

+1 on both those. I'd have to add my vote to not chop it up. Build it up and have some fun!!
 
Keep in mind Craig, a race car is nothing more than a hole to throw money into.




but it sure is fun :weas
 
"silverblueBP" said:
Keep in mind Craig, a race car is nothing more than a hole to through throw money into.




but it sure is fun :weas


Fixed it for you. Gotta love that FL education system.
 
If I was building a drag car, I would leave the interior as stripped as possible. If you want it street legal, just install things like wipers if needed for inspection. Quarter windows can be omitted or bolted in the upright position and remove the regulators.

Building a cage would be fun but I am sure there are regulations for those.

Start with the stuff you have and slowly pour money into it to make it faster and safer.

I hear drum brakes are lighter and oldtime racers used them.
 
I hear drum brakes are lighter and oldtime racers used them.


IMO, properly working drum brakes are fine for an 1/8th mile car and to some extent 1/4 mile cars. Once you get into the 120-130 MPH area on a track with a shorter than desired overrun area you'd maybe benefit from disc brakes.
 
"janschutz" said:
I hear drum brakes are lighter and oldtime racers used them.
I doubt that is the case. Having recently had to get rid of some old drums I can tell you they ain't light! Compared to a decent drilled/vented rotor and aluminum caliper the weight reduction with the disk system is big. And then there is the fact that Dave brings up about being able to actually stop the car.

You can shed a lot of weight by cutting back on the interior stuff.

Yes there are specific rules and specifications for roll bars and cages. Be sure to know what is mandatory based upon your projected ET. Go too fast (is there such a thing?)and you need to have it built by a certified welder in order to race. For what I would assume the target here, owner built would be fine. It is more about chassis improvement than enhanced safety at this level.
 
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