daveSanborn
Active Member
There are "other" classic mustang sites on the web. Disregard them.
This is where "it's" at!
This is where "it's" at!
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The poor man's dynacorn body...
- Thread starter 65-408
- Start date
Anyone know if the front frame rails, where they go under the floor, are supposed to be parallel to the rockers? I noticed last night that mine slope up a bit as they go back... we verified the tooling hole heights, but weren't specifically checking to make sure they were parallel...
any help would be appreciated, or if anyone is near thier car, a direct side picture, centered at the bottom of the rocker would be helpful for comparison...
thanks,
jeff
any help would be appreciated, or if anyone is near thier car, a direct side picture, centered at the bottom of the rocker would be helpful for comparison...
thanks,
jeff
daveSanborn
Active Member
"65-408" said:
Hmmm.... I've often wondered this myself. Looking under just about every Mustang I've ever owned it appeared that the rear of the front frame rails angled slightly "up" in relation to the rockers. I attributed this to 40 years of wear/tear and the likelihood that someone had jacked the car up from the rear of the frame rail causing it to bend upwards slightly.
But now that you're seeing the same angle on a "fresh" build, I have to wonder if it's not supposed to be that way. How does the rear of the frame rail fit in relation to the floor pan would be my first question.
"daveSanborn" said:
the entire rail makes good contact with the floor, but based on the way we built it, we might have just made it conform, the one piece floor pan is a flimsy part... and there is really no reference on the rockers to define the shape (front to back), it can basically sit anywhere within the 4" height...
Dennis Harrelson
Member
On my (relatively undisturbed) '65, holding a straight edge across the bottom of the rails, and measuring up to the bottom of the pinch weld (the rails are lower than the rocker):
Lt side at the rear end of the rail = 1 5/8"
Lt side at the stiffener across the trans hump = 1 5/8"
Lt side at the front of the rail = 1 7/8"
Rt side @ rear = 1 3/8"
Rt @ stiffener = 1 5/8"
Rt @ front = 1 7/8"
The pinch welds are a bit shorter at the front of the rocker, so that probably explains the larger number at the front. The 1/4" difference at the rear is an anomaly I couldn't see a reason for.
My rails are dinged up a little from service lifts, etc, so even though I picked spots which weren't obviously deformed, probably +/- 1/8" isn't unreasonable.
Horizontally, both sides measure 11" to the pinch at the front, and 11 1/8" at the rear of the rail.
It sure looks to me like the intent is for everything to be parallel in both planes.
HTH
Lt side at the rear end of the rail = 1 5/8"
Lt side at the stiffener across the trans hump = 1 5/8"
Lt side at the front of the rail = 1 7/8"
Rt side @ rear = 1 3/8"
Rt @ stiffener = 1 5/8"
Rt @ front = 1 7/8"
The pinch welds are a bit shorter at the front of the rocker, so that probably explains the larger number at the front. The 1/4" difference at the rear is an anomaly I couldn't see a reason for.
My rails are dinged up a little from service lifts, etc, so even though I picked spots which weren't obviously deformed, probably +/- 1/8" isn't unreasonable.
Horizontally, both sides measure 11" to the pinch at the front, and 11 1/8" at the rear of the rail.
It sure looks to me like the intent is for everything to be parallel in both planes.
HTH
Nice work-interesting to say the least! Have a couple ??'s. Remember well, fitting the w/s in a 66 cvt after changing both hinge pillars, along with MAJOR cowl rebuilding. Fitting the w/s was a major deal. Had an old w/shield to use for fit. Had made templates to use prior to welding but still wanted to see it resting in place without rocking or whatever. Did you check the rear window area for fit prior to welding in roof skin? Did it need tweaking for rear window not to rock or chafe, fitting like an original?
When replacing those hinge pillars, my replacements were good used pieces, but had bare metal inside though not rusted through. Did you rustproof those pillars and boxed sections over the doors on the inside?
Again, very nice, looking forward to seeing the finished product.
When replacing those hinge pillars, my replacements were good used pieces, but had bare metal inside though not rusted through. Did you rustproof those pillars and boxed sections over the doors on the inside?
Again, very nice, looking forward to seeing the finished product.
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
I think "some" is the key word. I haven't found any I could afford."GT350" said: