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Suspension parts worth keeping?

Jonk67

Jonk67

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone, first post in a long time, trying to get back at first start for my '67 Coupe and need to clean up/ get organized. Any of these original suspension parts worth keeping? UCA, LCA, springs, rear shock mounts. I think the UCA/LCA were thicker steel than you can get nowadays? I seem to remember Opentracker preferring UCA for rebuilding?
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I've replaced all of it with new stuff and the new Moog lowers are boxed so stronger. I'd like to upgrade to John's ORP blueprinted UCA's or roller but I'll wait until car is running.
I just have have a problem with tossing old original parts that are rebuildable... I doubt anyone else on SF has that affliction...

'67 Coupe, original 289 stroked to 333ci.
 
Nice to see an old timer resurface!

I hung onto stuff for a long time before finally deciding to toss stuff. The rear spring mounts are better than repop stuff but rarely in demand. Same for original UCAs. If you won't use them yourself might as well scrap 'em. Not worth the space they take up. If you wanted a project you could use the old perches as a starting point to make into roller perches.
 
Good to be back, hoping to light a fire and get this 12+yr project back on the road. Yes I'm still alive and getting older and looking it with a grey beard currently that'll get shaved when spring is here.
I've already got ORP roller perches. I guess the UCA aren't worth keeping as ORP doesn't ask for cores. Wish I had learned to weld this stuff would make a great car man to sit outside.

'67 Coupe, original 289 stroked to 333ci.
 
They have value. Rick sent me a set of old lowers that I rebuilt with parts from John. I turned them into fully boxed roller units with screw in ball joints.


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I replaced all of mine. I have a set of roller perches I need to install.

I tossed my old parts except my springs.

I have new UCA, LCA, perches, springs, shocks, tie rod ends and disc brakes.

Mel
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Those are awesome but I don't have welding skills and by the time I pay someone I trust to weld in the kit I probably wouldn't save much. Beyond that I plan to mostly drive the '67 locally and on long distance trips so I think rollers would be overkill for my use and may add NVH for daily?

I do track days a few times a year with an OTM currently and plan to run the mustang too but I'm not competing, it's just for my own adrenaline fix.

My LCA's on the car were boxed by Steve (Seller's Rod Shop) so I could always have the roller kit installed on them later.

Thanks for all the input but I think these old parts are just taking up space for me unless someone wants them they'll go to metal recycling.

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Jonk67 said:
Those are awesome but I don't have welding skills and by the time I pay someone I trust to weld in the kit I probably wouldn't save much. Beyond that I plan to mostly drive the '67 locally and on long distance trips so I think rollers would be overkill for my use and may add NVH for daily?

I do track days a few times a year with an OTM currently and plan to run the mustang too but I'm not competing, it's just for my own adrenaline fix.

My LCA's on the car were boxed by Steve (Seller's Rod Shop) so I could always have the roller kit installed on them later.

Thanks for all the input but I think these old parts are just taking up space for me unless someone wants them they'll go to metal recycling.

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Click to expand...

I did not weld before this either, I did start with the Mustang's body though. Was a fun thing to learn and the grinder is my most used tool! I purchased a used set of arms so I did not cut up my originals, and if I did mess up, I could put the originals back on. I did pay a guy to cut out and weld in the threaded rings for the lower ball joints. Looking back I should have bought an inexpensive HF plasma cutter with what I paid him and done it myself.
 
Don't undervalue the rollerization of the full suspension. Even for simple street driving. Makes a big difference. Having the near completely resistance free motion provided by the bearings lets the suspension act smoothly and, most importantly, quickly. You can feel the difference easily...or should I say, not feel it.

The only place I did not go with bearings was my upper arms. Used John's prepped stock pieces. Late this summer I developed a VERY irritating squeak which I chased for a couple weeks. Had the full front suspension out multiple times for greasing ect. and it still persists. I KNOW it is the bushings in the control arm. Has to be. Guess what's going in this off-season.
 
Horseplay said:
Don't undervalue the rollerization of the full suspension. Even for simple street driving...
Click to expand...

Thanks Terry, I've got John's roller perches and built my own adjustable strut rods. Seller's Rod Shop Steve boxed my lowers for me so I'd need to send those in to be converted to roller, the UCA would be the last due to cost. I have stock replacements on it now. I've also done the 1" Arning drop.
I need to do the first start on a new motor & AOD, 9", before I worry about suspension upgrades, everything is newer now, just not all optimized.

I wanted to verify there was no reason for me to keep my old stock parts for rebuilding, for cost of shipping and having to clean them up first I'd just as soon get new units from John. I've since sent the old parts to the metal scrapyard in the sky. I keep too much stuff and it's in my way of completing this build, original driveshaft, C4, flywheel w/ chipped tooth, etc. still need to go.
 
I hear ya! Been cleaning out lots myself making room to work on the F1. I just wanted to share that last stuff for anyone else reading the thread. I get the budget bit too. That's why I didn't go with roller uppers doing my build initially. Spend the $$$ where it's needed most.
 
I am in the same boat, just came across my old lowers plus the parts I bought to box and roller them. Never got to it in 5 years, most likely will not ever. Time to put the kit on eBay and scrap all my old cores.
 
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