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solenoid alt. wiring

S8NS 289

Member
Im looking for any help i recently upgraded to a 3g alt from PA and fi tech mean street efi, msd 6al and a whole rats nest of wiring, i havent cranked this engine over since new 3yrs ago-
my problem is with the yellow & black wire-alt.?- when hooked to the positive terminal of solenoid will spark-like a short but i have checked 3 times for shorts any help would be awesome thanks!
 
Sounds like a job for Randy. He likes to check other people's shorts..

Where have u been lately? Good to see you back.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
 
long time no see!!..or talk i guess i took time away from the car..too much time away and started early bronco collecting :0 glad to see youre still here
 
Not a short, but you're probably drawing substantial current when you first contact the battery post on the starter solenoid. What does this wire come from? Are your doors open?

I suspect you have a significant current draw somewhere. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery and then connect all of your positive cables. Measure the current draw from the negative battery cable connector with one probe of your digital volt meter (set to 20 amps DC) and the other probe on the negative battery terminal. A good reading is 50 milliamps or less. Start removing equipment that may cause a current draw until you see your draw drop significantly. Then focus your efforts on that item you just disconnected.
 
long time no see!!..or talk i guess i took time away from the car..too much time away and started early bronco collecting :0 glad to see youre still here
Yup I'm still here. Everyone here are the only friends I have.

My cars finally back on the road!

Sorry, hijack over now.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
 
geez you are good midlife, so im getting massive draw out of these 2 wires the yellow and black factory harness wires when attatched to the solenoid
 
OK...those are main power feeds to the underdash harness. Start pulling fuses out one by one followed by the current draw test. The fuse you pull that drops the current draw will be the problem child. Just let me know which fuse it is (location in the fuse box and the year of the car, please). If no fuses and still a draw, start disconnecting the alternator plug, then the voltage regulator plug, and anything else that might be attached to the starter solenoid (except the battery). It could be as simple as a cigarette lighter is inadvertently pushed in.
 
the car is a 1968, i pulled every fuse, alternator wires,spark box wires and couldnt find the problem. im really scratching my head
 
goodness....gracious..too many beers for me while re reading the PA alternator instructions there is 2 black wires a ground & a B+ thick black power wire....which i GROUNDED like an idiot haha, thank you midlife, im sure ill be needing your help again im horrible at wiring-thanks again!
 
so now im bypassing the pink resistor wire, i pushed the female pin out of ignition switch plug and put a new 14 gauge wire in its place, i have also routed it through the firewall, does the pink wire end pretty close to the firewall harness plug? i cant find it, also this fi tech unit is asking for a full 12v source to key on & start i was going to attatch it to the I post of solenoid it cant be used with any coil signal, does this sound like a good place for it?
 
Pink resistor wire typically ends up at the firewall plug, interior side. Depends upon the year. The I post is only hot when the starter is cranking. The best place for a 12V RUN-only line already in the factory wiring is the green/red wire going to the voltage regulator connector.

Why don't you tell us the year this car is?
 
green/red wire for a 12v source on run & start coming from ignition switch... i should have spliced it when i had the pin out dang it!
 
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