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Seam Sealer

M

me3

New Member
I am getting ready to buy some seam sealer and was wanting opinions on which kind you like as this is my first time using the stuff. Also do you prefer brush-on or spray?

Thanks

BTW do you think its a good idea to seam seal the inside of the side cowls on my 69?


David
 
I'd stay away from 3M, even though it IS 3M, their most common types seem like they all come off in chunks as soon as they dry. NAPA's Martin-Seynour brand is supposed to be very decent, but I decided that it's not a place to skimp.

I figured some ultra high quality seam sealer would help prevent rust in the nooks and crannies. After talking to some long time pros, I settled on Lord brand 2-part catalyzed sealer in a caulking tube. Lord has an excellent reputation for quality and the price is much better than 3Ms equivalent at ~$50 for a large tube. Plus, it dries in less than an hour (you can pick which speed you'd like) so you can seam seal and be done ASAP. Time will tell though, I'm FAR from needing it.
 
I used SEM brand exclusively on my car and found it to be very good both in use and performance. I used a few different formulations depending upon application (drip rails, overlap seams, etc.) all of which were two component products. A special "gun" and mixing tips are used. In my opinion, this gave me better than OEM results and future durability.

While there might be cheaper ways to go the overall extra dollars spent here, to me, were a no brainer.
 
I've used Napa and 3M, both in the tube and brush on. Both worked great. I like the tube better just because it's easier to apply. Lay down a bead using a caulk gun, then brush it flat.
 
I only used the Napa Martin Seynour brand. Went on easy, was fairly easy to work with...Now that it's dry I tried pulling it up and it's pretty stuck. As Kyle says, "Time will tell" but I had no complaints. I used the caulk tube stuff. I have no basis for comparison, but next time I need some, it's to the Napa-Paint I go.
 
if you want "the best", go with the SEM 2 part sealers. second would be the urethane based like sluggo used. after years of experience, the rest is just a band aid. they will crack & pull loose eventually. the drawback with the 2 part sealers, as mentioned above, is the price of the applicator gun if you are only gonna do one car. if you know someone who works in a body shop that might let you borrow one, it would be a no brainer..
 
"Dennis Harrelson" said:
I had some trouble with 3M sticking to Zero Rust ( http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/605455-possible-screw-up.html ), but it seems to stick really well to epoxy primer. I like the brush on, cause it's easier to force into all the little nooks and crannies. I haven't tried anything else, though.
Click to expand...

SEM has different "flow" formulations that get into those "nooks and crannies" in a way no brush on or other application will match...and these are the very spots that are most critical, in all honesty. If you don't seal it all up completely you may actually be creating problems by forming areas that can trap moisture. If you are going through all the trouble to remove rusted panels, weld in new metal, scrape away factory sealer, etc. spend the money and complete the job with the right product. After all the money we pour into our projects what is an extra $100 or so?
 
Here's where I bought my sealer supplies. Usually the best prices you'll find and they almost always ship same or next day complete.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/search/ ... ywords=sem

I used the self leveling formula for my drip rails ( flows a bit more evenly and filled in very nicely) and the regular formula sealer throughout the balance of the car. Applicator gun sells for $60.
 
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