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Saginaw Power steering pump

68EFIvert

68EFIvert

Well-Known Member
I was wondering if anyone was using a saginaw ps pump. I was thinking that since my steering rack is a GM based rack that the ps pressure and flow may be better if I used a saginaw pump. Any input on this?
 
I have the Unisteer power R&P setup and am using a Saginaw pump. Works great. The effort is higher than most power setups, and I like it that way. Looks great with the March pulley setup, too. You can see pics in my gallery.
 
That does look nice. I am using a March bracket for my 5.0 pump but had to modify the mounting points becasues of my blower. I put the alternator over the PS pump and the filler tube was in the way. I used a piece of aluminum to tilt the pump so the filler was rotated to the shock tower.

I think If I used a remote tank saginaw pump I could fit this problem. I'm also looking into making my own PS/Alternator bracket out of 1/2" aluminum plate to really clean things up. If I did that I would need to find a place with a plasma cutter or waterjet so that it would turn out the way that I want it to.

I guess I am trying to figure out if I should reinvent the wheel for a cleaner look or if the custom bracket/saginaw pump would actually make the car perform better.
 
I know two things:

1) When I was considering the Unisteer setup, they told me that Ford pumps weren't well suited to their rack because of flow characteristics. They said the Saginaw would work better. They sold the KRC pump, I think.

2) The March kit I was going to use was available only for a Ford (old style?) pump or a Saginaw pump. They did not have one for a KRC pump.

Given that information, the decision was pretty easy. I got lucky, I guess, because the feel is just right.
 
Well I decided to experiment with this project. I ordered a 12" * 12" * 1/2" piece of sheet aluminum. I will purchase a remote tank saginaw pump and make a bracket that will tie the Alternator to the PS pump together. I just need to find a local company that can water jet the aluminum. I plan on making a template out of cardboard, then transfer it to fiberboard before I go have the aluminum cut. It should be pretty cool when it is done but more importantly the steering should be a little more difficult. I think it is a little soft or easy to turn now with the Ford box.
 
Darreld I think there is a water jet company next to my house. As before if you need it welded bring it on by(bring some scrap so I can practice first).
 
I have about a 4X4 by maybe 1/2 in stainless plate on the side of my house if you want to try that too.
 
Thanks for the offer to help Tony. I may need help to weld the aluminum resevoir tank. About the only place I can think to mount it is on the monte carlo bar you already welded for me.

Do you know the name of the company by you? I'll give them a call and see what they can do for me.
 
here are the three water jet cutters that I found in the phone book. The one by my house isn't listed.
W & R Mfg Inc
12209 NE Fourth Plain Rd # F, Vancouver, WA 98682 (360) 693-8099
IGI
4601 NE 77th Ave # 180, Vancouver, WA 98662 (360) 694-1785
Diversified Welding Works
8009 NE 19th Ct, Vancouver, WA 98665 (360) 576-0929
 
Thanks Tony! I didn't expect you to look it up in the phone book for me. I'll give then a call when I get the aluminum plate in.
 
I saw your posting and I need to make a bracket for my kenne Bell, and was wondering what a 12x12x1/2 inch piece of aluminum goes for these days. Aluminum is pretty soft, you could cut if with an electric jig saw or hack saw and then file and polish it, or Plasma if you have access to it.
 
If you want to try a scroll saw you can borrow mine. Would save you money by not using a water jet. It is what I used to cut out my tail lights.
 
I have done some cutting on 1/4" aluminum and found a jig saw useless. It ate through blades like you wouldn't believe. I ended up using a grinder and had a huge amount of clean up work to make it look decent. I haven't tried a scroll saw before so I don't know how that would work. i guess it would be worth a try. Do you have to have some sort of special blade for metal work? If I did try it with you Tony I would want to buy a new blade before we start. I don't want to screw up your blades. I'll give you a call when the aluminum comes in.

I just got back in from the garage and the template that I made looks like it will work great. I went to O'Reiley's this afternoon and got a pump. Stopped by Baxter Auto Parts for the Russell fittings I needed to adapt the new pump to my existing PS hose. I am into the project now about $126. I will need to pick up 2 3/8" spacers for the pump to mounting bracket. That should run me about $3. I will make the spacers from the bracket to the waterpump out of 3/8" id thick wall aluminum tubing I have lying around.

The cost of the bracket, pump and mounting hardware is less than the March bracket alone. I would still need to modify the March bracket to work with my setup.
 
I have metal cutting blades for the scroll saw. It was the only way to get the intricate cuts for the tail lights. I also have a band saw but I think that the scroll saw would do a nicer job. Jig saws are all right but they tend to jump around too much. I used one to cut out my flamed grill for my explorer but it would catch and bent the flames. If you want to borrow the scroll saw let me know. Or you could do it over here. Its up to you.
 
I tried a coupla pumps from the local parts houses. They're all remans and the reservoir is usually dented or sloppily repaired. The only way I could find one with a new reservoir was to buy a Tuff Stuff pump from Speedway (available elsewhere, too). It's very nice with a shiny black powdercoat finish.
 
Update. I fabed a bracket from thin fiberboard and have some 1/2" thick aluminum. I borrowed a scroll saw from TonyR and tried to cut out the bracket. Didn't get far before I realized using a scroll saw would take forever and go through a lot of bladed.

I was surfin the net and found a place that will allow you to design your own parts on thier CAD program. You choose the metal you want and even the finish. Pretty cool site. Emachineshop.com

After I spent about 3 hours working on putting the bracket on the computer I got a price quote. $200. I decided to talke the printout of the bracket and my wood template to a local place and see what they have to say. I should hear back later today or tomorrow on what it will cost me.

As usual, everything about my car has to be difficult and this is no exception. At least when this is done I know it will be done right and should look great.
 
Do you want to take a chunk of that stainless with you and cut out 2 in case the aluminum isn't strong enough?
 
I'll hold off on the stainless for now. The aluminum should be plenty strong. The stainless may come in handy if I don't want to pay the price for the water jetting of the bracket ($$$). I could cut the stainless with a grinder if I needed or have someone plasma cut it since it is not nearly as thick. Thanks again on the offer. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
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