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Remove Front Sway Bar Question
- Thread starter Mach1ne
- Start date
A
Anonymous
Guest
Just remember to tighten it all up with the suspension fully loaded!
What size bar are you going to?
What size bar are you going to?
Leaving the stock front bar on (they are good size on these cars) and just replacing the end links with new ones with poly bushings. The original rubber ones have really collapsed.
The bushings in the middle of the bar had already been replaced.
Update on the brakes.
I am still trying to figure out a good place for the proportioning valve. Looks like inside the car is going to be the easiest. There is just no room in the engine bay on these things. I am going to order a new front to rear line and try a few things with the original one before I commit to putting it inside the car using the new line.
I have the front all done so I but the wheels back on and took it off the jack stands just to give it a break and get it back on its suspension. Figure having that much weight hanging on the front was not good.
Also started it up on the first turn of the key today.
I keep telling myself that I should keep this car and keep making small changes although there is a sweet 65 Daytona Coupe on the Factory Five forum that would be nice to get and the sell the mustang. But then I figure just the money I would spend in sales tax and shipping would buy me a lot of neat improvements for the mustang.
Later.
The bushings in the middle of the bar had already been replaced.
Update on the brakes.
I am still trying to figure out a good place for the proportioning valve. Looks like inside the car is going to be the easiest. There is just no room in the engine bay on these things. I am going to order a new front to rear line and try a few things with the original one before I commit to putting it inside the car using the new line.
I have the front all done so I but the wheels back on and took it off the jack stands just to give it a break and get it back on its suspension. Figure having that much weight hanging on the front was not good.
Also started it up on the first turn of the key today.
I keep telling myself that I should keep this car and keep making small changes although there is a sweet 65 Daytona Coupe on the Factory Five forum that would be nice to get and the sell the mustang. But then I figure just the money I would spend in sales tax and shipping would buy me a lot of neat improvements for the mustang.
Later.
AtlantaSteve
Active Member
"silverblueBP" said:
Can you elaborate? What all should be tightened down with the suspension loaded? JUST the sway bar? I have no front end (steering or suspension) in my car right now and am about to start putting it all back together, and was unaware of this rule....This is what scares me most on this stuff, is not knowing what I don't know.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Steve, you want to do all final torquing with the suspension loaded, if you don't, it will not be at the final ride height and will cause bind.
AtlantaSteve
Active Member
So even things like LCA and UCA mounts, BallJoints etc? wow I woulda screwed that right up.
A
Anonymous
Guest
The parts that get tightened by compression, like: LCA, sway bar, rear leaf springs.
Fast68back
Guest
Steve if you torque everything down with the suspension hanging it will end up looking like Jake's car used to look (his looked that way because of the stock springs) you want the weight on everything so it is compressed from the weight when you torque everything. Same with the rear if you swap leaf springs.
"silverblueBP" said:
That might explain why my front seems to sit a little high. I replaced everything up front when I did my disc brake upgrade last year.
Not sure, but I think I had it up on stands when I tightened every thing up. I planing to swap to roller perches in spring so I guess that would be a good time to get it right.