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On The Life Span Of Standard Type K/H Front Brake Pads

4ocious

4ocious

Innocent bystander
Donator
That's what I have I guess, I don't even know the brand they are.
My car has about 23K miles on it now, and until last week I could "lock 'em up" from speed which was nice and seems to make sense to be able to do.
Took the car to Black Mountain last week and noticed the brakes felt soft or whatever you would call it. So I did the lock 'em up test and they didn't pass.
Black Mountain itself is basically in the Blue Ridge foothills just east of where you can see much taller mountains a few miles further west. It shouldn't be a challenge in other words. But from 40mph I couldn't lock them up anymore, the fronts or the rears (the rears are discs too, on a cut down 3.73 exploder trac-loc.)
The system is standard fare Bendix style booster power, and everything seems fine with that too as far as I can tell anyway.
But back to the fronts. I do more city driving than highway, and I don't drive the car with abandon. Old fart easy does it for me. Nothing leaks, fluid level is right as always.
The front still dips first under braking which is what you want. So it's probably the pads, right? 23K miles though? Is this considered normal?
After my usual research on what many would recommend I ordered up Red EBC's. Now I need to review what all should be done to install them.
But how many miles under "normal" driving conditions should brake pads last?
 
I've got '68 disc brakes but have the same issue. My plan was to check brake fluid pressures at each corner before installing EBC pads. But if pads are a likely culprit, that may be an unnecessary step. I'll be following to see what the experts have to say.
 
It really depends on driving style. I can tell you, with the boss’s DD, she got about 35K on a set of fronts. Pretty regular, and we bought it new, and sold at 155K.
The not able to lock up I would more attribute to the pads being glazed. Pull them apart and take a look. If it looks like a lot of pad left, but a shiny finish on the work surface, they are glazed. A cheap person might just sand that off. Me, I would have another set ready to go on before pulling it apart, and put them on. They make surface reconditioning pads to use to clean up your rotors so new pads will bite.
 
As you might guess I know little when it comes to dealing with brake maintenance.
"Surface reconditioning pads" is therefor something I've never even heard of.
I would've guessed I need to get the rotors turned somewhere before I put the new pads in. I don't?
 
I actually never tried to lock mine up. With 550hp, I should probably address that once off the jackstands.

I run Porterfield front pads and rear shoes and love them. I know I need to add a residual valve as I always pump the brakes before slowing down or coming to a stop.

Chris
 
I guess I figured they'd be good until I started to hear them squeak or squeal or whatever it is they do when they get worn and need to be replaced.
 
I don't think you need to turn the rotors unless they're warped. I just used one of these abrasive discs on a drill motor when did the conversion. I put a straight edge on the rotors and they seemed fine. The pads were new and it nearly put my face through the windshield when I first tested them. But what do I know? They don't do that anymore.

IMG_2826.jpg
 
The surface reconditioning pads I have are 3M. I think green, and go on an arbor on air grinder. Specifically for doing disc pads.
I used to get them at auto supply place. Now that I am in NC, I would have to look around.

Having the rotors turned is the other option. Unfortunately, most now come near the minimum size, with not a lot of material they can take off.

EDIT: See above- exactly what it looks like.
 
The issue with "cookies" is they don't apply a consistent finish to the rotor (or pads) unless used in a "fixture". Most rotor lathes have an attachment that uses a larger diameter disc...I'd say 5-inch or so (it's been a while since I sold mine) and a fixture that tilts the disc at a slight angle to have it rotate opposite the rotor and impart a nice non-directional finish (like you see in the photo below).

That said, I replace my D-11 pads with ones from quality manufacturers like Raybestos, etc., with SEMI-METALLIC versions. If I Auto-X'ed or raced occasionally I'd probably go with Porterfield, EBC or Hawk pads. I absolutely ABHOR "ceramic" pads as they are too damn hard to generate enough friction for me.
 

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Not much help here. When I had K/H brakes I would go through brake pads in about a year / ~10K miles of 50/50 city and mountain roads with autox and track sprinkled throughout.

I had no issue locking up the wheels with EBC red pads until I glazed them during a particularly brake heavy course. EBC yellows stood up better to the heat but lasted about the same.

Im now using later S197 brakes with MustangSteve brackets and EBC yellow pads and the pads have lasted twice as long. A win for me and my wallet LOL
 
msell66 said:
You could try the re bedding process. It should clean the glaze off and bring them back to a better state.
Click to expand...
When I get them off I'll take a close look at everything and see what I can see.
If I don't know what I'm seeing I'll post pics and ask you guys what you see. See? :)
 
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