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Old rusted bolts?
- Thread starter Kats66Pny
- Start date
Try this 
Heat sometimes works. Then there is always getting your Mustang from the Southwest. :dh
fd
Heat sometimes works. Then there is always getting your Mustang from the Southwest. :dh
fd
Last edited by a moderator:
Make sure that you read the directions. IIRC you need to let it work overnight.
fd
fd
Gigantopithecus
Well-Known Member
On the real stubborn bolts, I've had to soak them down in pb blaster, let it sit for a while, soak it again, let it sit, then try to loosen it.
On the can it says let it sit a few minutes, and for real problems, let it soak a while. So I sprayed it down good a few times, and going to let it set overnight and try again in the morning. If it doesn't come loose after a week of trying, I'm going to say hell with it and call a pro to see if they can get it out.
oateater
Member
Mix some acetone and automatic transmission fluid together 50/50 and spray that on it. That will break em loose.
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break-
out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective
test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrating oil ..... Average load ft/lbs
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ..............214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.
Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this
one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as
good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break-
out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective
test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrating oil ..... Average load ft/lbs
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ..............214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.
Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this
one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as
good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
Just to be clear....
You'll want to remove the nuts from the underside of the a-arm, not by turning the bolt head on top. MOST spring perches have splined bolts pressed in from the top, and you will NOT be able to turn those without help from Superman, the Hulk, or Chuck Norris. :wor
You'll want to remove the nuts from the underside of the a-arm, not by turning the bolt head on top. MOST spring perches have splined bolts pressed in from the top, and you will NOT be able to turn those without help from Superman, the Hulk, or Chuck Norris. :wor
Sluggo
Active Member
"BobV" said:
+1 You have to remove them from the nut side. The bolt head side is splined and does not turn. If you do overpower them and break the heads off you still have to take the nuts off to get it apart.
AtlantaSteve
Active Member
"BobV" said:
Or me, LOL. I didn't know that when I removed mine, so I grabbed my cheater bar (old Shop Jack handle) and jammed a closed wrench on the nut on the underside, and went all Hulkamaniac Jones on it. When I got the first bolt out and noticed the (now destroyed) splines, taking off the rest of the nuts was SUPER easy(by comparison). :lol
"oateater" said:
I have this home brew mixture and love it's performance.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Are you replacing the crap stock perches with John's roller perches?
AtlantaSteve
Active Member
John is also known as OpenTracker, and he sells a modified spring perch.
As you have been working on the car you understand what the spring perch does, now, but what you can realize is how insanely difficult it is to turn that perch right now. This is because the "hinge" that ford designed there is rubber based. The results of this are:
1)The perch is impossible to turn by hand. They have a LOT of bind, so as your spring compresses and rebounds, a lot of energy is wasted trying to turn that pivot point, causing your suspension to be less responsive, and harsher across the road.
2)They squeak and groan as the suspension goes up and down, the sound of metal and rubber moving across each other. Not very pleasant.
John sells modified spring perches where that rubber bushing has been completely replaced by roller bearings. These perches you can swing around freely in your hand. They are easy to turn, and make no sound as they pivot. This gives you a safer, more responsive, smoother, quieter ride. Many MANY people in this hobby consider them to be a required upgrade to any classic Mustang. I have never not ever read a review where someone installed them and regretted it.
You can see them here:
http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/rollerperch/
You don't know it yet, but you want these.
As you have been working on the car you understand what the spring perch does, now, but what you can realize is how insanely difficult it is to turn that perch right now. This is because the "hinge" that ford designed there is rubber based. The results of this are:
1)The perch is impossible to turn by hand. They have a LOT of bind, so as your spring compresses and rebounds, a lot of energy is wasted trying to turn that pivot point, causing your suspension to be less responsive, and harsher across the road.
2)They squeak and groan as the suspension goes up and down, the sound of metal and rubber moving across each other. Not very pleasant.
John sells modified spring perches where that rubber bushing has been completely replaced by roller bearings. These perches you can swing around freely in your hand. They are easy to turn, and make no sound as they pivot. This gives you a safer, more responsive, smoother, quieter ride. Many MANY people in this hobby consider them to be a required upgrade to any classic Mustang. I have never not ever read a review where someone installed them and regretted it.
You can see them here:
http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/rollerperch/
You don't know it yet, but you want these.
A
Anonymous
Guest
What Steve said!!!!
AzPete
Well-Known Member
I thought my roller perches were making noise but the wife told me it was me saying "ahhhhhh, they ride so smooth".
Don't second guess on this....get them.
Don't second guess on this....get them.