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Oil gauge....

KBMWRS

KBMWRS

sad
Donator
So while at the last show Craig says I should ditch the non-functioning clock ( I glued the hands at 6 &7) and replace it with a oil gauge. We look around and notice other 67s with the 1 1/2" (?) gauge so it is available. I don't want to go new...old 67 gauge is fine. Now I have a idiot light located in the tach (standard issue in 67).

So I will need a new sending unit. But which one? NPD notes one for the 67 390 with tach (what I have now...light only) and another for 67 390 gauge without tach. I'm guesing that's the sending unit I need. Is this correct?
Can I use the same wire?

The next problem is that NPD does not sell the gauge. Well at least I couldn't find it. I'd need to go hunting for that.

I'll probably do this when I buy the LEDs for the instrument cluster. Can't see any gauges at night.
 
My car was a non-tach car. It had a non-functioning clock as well. I added a 67 Cougar factory tach and gave up the oil pressure gauge in the stock 67 cluster. The 68 cluster switched the fuel gauge and oil pressure on the non-tach cluster. I bought a 68 oil pressure gauge on ebay. You do need the non-tach sending unit and the wires are okay.
I also had to modify a lens from the fuel or temp gauge because all the clock lenses (even with no clock) have a hole in them. I also went white face overlays to make the tach match the Stang gauges but that won't be a problem for you.
72_20_05_09_12_37_21.jpg

72_08_03_09_2_00_45.jpg


I also changed my bulb covers to red/orange...
72_29_03_09_8_00_13.jpg
 
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Oh mightly one, didn't you get an email from me this past Sunday at home, showing you a picture I took of Shag's original oil pressure gauge which is yours if it matches your other gauges and if it is the correct size?
 
I just bought a 68 cluster off eBay to get some of the internals parts from it. I do not need the oil gauge. I can also remove the back plate to mount it. When it comes in, it is yours if you want it.
 
"cmayna" said:
Oh mightly one, didn't you get an email from me this past Sunday at home, showing you a picture I took of Shag's original oil pressure gauge which is yours if it matches your other gauges and if it is the correct size?
Click to expand...

Nope...pic didn't come through.
 
"janschutz" said:
I just bought a 68 cluster off eBay to get some of the internals parts from it. I do not need the oil gauge. I can also remove the back plate to mount it. When it comes in, it is yours if you want it.
Click to expand...

Thanks....I'm thinking Craig has the same. But I'll let you know.

great guys here. :thu :thu
 
You didn't get the email or just the pic in the email for I had a bunch of text in there as well. Nevertheless, here's another pic. The white circle is 1-3/4" diameter.

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To other Craig, Are you saying that the hole in Mike's bezel that contains the clock will not have the two holes for the two studs that are on the back of the oil gauge? I'm also wondering if the wiring that is currently going to Mike idiot light is two wires as what is required for the oil gauge.
 
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The clock hole is a big hole! you can see it in the attached photo (I had to cut out my panel for the Tach but you can see the clock hole next to it). The Oil Pressure gauge mounts by the two studs sticking out of the back. Make sure to insulate them or you'll blow the instrument cluster voltage regulator. I made a bracket that would hold the gauge and attach to the cluster panel out of sheet metal and insulated it with plastic washers.
As for the wiring at the cluster, that's a good point. I thought he was asking about the sender end of things. Midlife should be able to help with that I suspect.
 

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Wiring for a oil pressure idiot light and an oil gauge are two completely different animals. The light requires a resistor wire along with a special sending unit; the gauge requires the constant voltage regulator as a source and its special sending unit.

The easiest thing to do is to have a tee at the oil pressure area at the block and run both the idiot light and a gauge.
 
I didn't see where he wants to run both....maybe I missed that.

I would say if the factory wire is not of the resistor type, it can be used for a gauge....just routed thru the CVR as the factory did.
 
I highly recommend running both. It's worth the little bit of extra work. In the event oil pressure were to drop off, you are far more likely to take notice of an "idiot" light long before you see it on a gauge. Gauges are great for monitoring performance but nobody watches them all the time.
 
Honestly, I question wether this KBMWRS guy is worth all this chatter and work. :confu

But I guess to keep him from going :soapboxrant we'd better be nice to him.

Meanwhile, If he chose to go both idiot and gauge assuming we could configure a T setup down at the block, I assume that we would need to run another wire to feed the gauge?

If he chose to replace the idiot with the gauge and if it is deemed that the current wire is infact factory, then we would still need to run a new wire for the gauge.
 
Okay Lets say I run both.

I have the oil gauge that Craig pic'd.

Is this the sending unit I need?
OilSendingunit.jpg

SENDING UNIT, OIL PRESSURE, MOTORCRAFT, ORIGINALS STAMPED *NO. 90*, E4ZZ-9278-A, SEE ALSO 9278-2 FOR REPLACEMENT STYLE
67 MUSTANG 390, W/ OIL GAUGE, W/O TACHOMETER

So explain to the electrical moron (hey that's me) exactly what I would need and how to do it.

Can I use the same wire that is there now?
At Engine block this one wire just slides onto the sending unit.
What happens at the oil gauge end?
 
"KBMWRS" said:
Okay Lets say I run both.

I have the oil gauge that Craig pic'd.

Is this the sending unit I need?
OilSendingunit.jpg

SENDING UNIT, OIL PRESSURE, MOTORCRAFT, ORIGINALS STAMPED *NO. 90*, E4ZZ-9278-A, SEE ALSO 9278-2 FOR REPLACEMENT STYLE
67 MUSTANG 390, W/ OIL GAUGE, W/O TACHOMETER

So explain to the electrical moron (hey that's me) exactly what I would need and how to do it.

Can I use the same wire that is there now?
At Engine block this one wire just slides onto the sending unit.
What happens at the oil gauge end?
Click to expand...
That is the correct sender for the oil pressure gauge. The wire harness for this gauge is different than the one with the idiot light (tach set up). I would just run a new wire.
 
If you want to run only one wire and use the existing oil pressure sending wire, you'll have to modify the current configuration of the dash cluster harness. PM me and I can give you details as to how to make the modifications (e.g. send it to me and I'll fix it for ya!).
 
For you, I'll convert the dash cluster for free if you pay shipping. It's the least I can do for your assistance in the past.
 
Thanks Randy....I may take you up on that. Of course it will be at least November before I dig into it.
 
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