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need help with 66 fastback fuel gauge / sender / inst. voltage relay.

kbart1

New Member
hello

i have for the last couple years gone through a bunch of fuel senders because they always read erratic and when i fill the tank they only read 3/4 full. my latest sender has now started to bounce the fuel gauge all over the place or doesn't read at all. so today i thought i would look into it. i did the test where you ground out the sender wire and the gauge went straight up to full, yes i shut the ignition off before it pinned the gauge. i also did the test with my test light and got the pulsing light when i put the probe into the sender wire. i decided to drain the tank and pull the sender to see what its ohm readings were? here are the results of 3 senders that i have on hand (see pic attached). the sender on the left with the brass float is the most recent sender i removed today, its ohm readings we 7.6 at full 27.2 at approx half tank and 73.8 on empty. the sender on the far right has a plastic float which i cut out of the photo, its readings were 10.8 at full 35.6 at approx half tank and 72.4 on empty. the sender in the middle gives no readings anywhere on the scale and im wondering if that is an original ford sender? i thought i read on the forum somewhere about a member who rebuilds the original ford ones as they are much better??? so the first question is are either of the senders that give readings within the zone of where they need to be to work? i really dont wanna have to buy another sender. and does somebody rebuild the old ford senders? now for the next wrinkle. after using the ohmmeter on the senders i thought i would go back and recheck the first two tests i did. now, when i used my test light i did NOT get the pulsing light. and also when i ground out the sender wire the gauge only went to about 3/4 and then dropped down a bit. so, is my instrument voltage reg pooched? i see on NPD where i buy my stuff that they sell the old relay style regulator or a new ELECTRONIC version. anybody have any opinion on using the old style or the new style regulator? and would the bad reg be causing my issues after all? i use autometer gauges for oil, temp and volts so i guess the fuel gauge is the only gauge on the regulator. any help is much appreciated.

thanks a lot!
Kent
 

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Glad you made it over here from VMF, and I haven't gotten banned for telling you to come to Stangfix (yet). All the people that have any experience have left VMF and came here.
Desert Classics can restore an original sender, or you can do it yourself by going to my Google Drive folder. Follow this link and download instructions for free: Fuel Sender Restoration, https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing
The problem with aftermarket senders is that they don't match the resistance curve that Ford wanted. Yours are in the high-low range, but my 69 sender gets 20.2 ohms for 10 gallons in a 20 gallon tank, and it works perfectly.
I can't really judge if you have a problem with the IVR. The originals are better than an aftermarket 5vdc regulator, and you could find a used IVR on Ebay. The original IVRs will get your gauges to their operating positions quicker than the aftermarket regulators. That's probably only important when watching the oil pressure while starting (which I always do). The OEM IVRs don't actually start to pulse until heating up, then after the first pulse the subsequence pulses come quicker. The first pulse can be up to around 44 seconds in some conditions- it depends on the resistance of all the senders, as they are in parallel.
Your problem sounds like it may be the float arm isn't adjusted for proper travel in the up position. You want 10 ohms when the tank is full, and 73 ohms when empty. If you get that worked out, then you could use the Meter Match device mentioned earlier to get 1/2 tank where you want it.
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You're lucky. Your middle sender in your photo looks to be an original. My 1965 sender looked just like it and had that same curly Q spring in the float arm and ribbon wire instead of insulated wires. But mine was so horribly rusted and crusty by comparison...think Titanic souvenir. lol.

However, about 5 years ago, Bill Basore at Desert Classic Parts did an amazing job rebuilding it to look and work like new. Only after his rebuild was I able to make out some of the part number and a FoMoCo oval and date stamp on the face of the sender. My fuel gauge now reads correctly for the first time in decades. His service is outstanding and sends you pics of it being calibrated.

I'm so glad I didn't have to try to get a new sending unit to be accurate with my original gauge.


 
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