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Kolkprepared 65 Coupe
- Thread starter Applejack
- Start date
My trunk floors are out, the old leaf spring/panhard bar setup is totally out, so now the car looks like.....a million mustangs that you've seen before with no trunk floor. I may get to posting some pictures, but in the meantime here's something more interesting.
I just did a write-up on the distributor that I chose to go with more my upcoming 331. I tried to really get into the tech behind the dial adjustable advance curves. Hopefully it can help someone else out.
http://www.kolkprepared.com/2012/12/201 ... hoice.html
A few teaser pics of what's inside:
I just did a write-up on the distributor that I chose to go with more my upcoming 331. I tried to really get into the tech behind the dial adjustable advance curves. Hopefully it can help someone else out.
http://www.kolkprepared.com/2012/12/201 ... hoice.html
A few teaser pics of what's inside:
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
"Applejack" said:
Good info., I skimmed through the adv. curve article, I'm going to have to reread a few times in complete silence to catch on. This will be handy when I make my ignition choice for my 331. I'm already leaning towards the Crane just from comparing their units in hand at a Summit loction. I think Summit uses their boxes as the base for their box too.
What are you doing with the Panhard setup you removed? If it's moving on I may be interested as I've got 4.5 mideye leafs and a 9", Panhard was going to be my next addition once running.
Jon
Ah well, at least it's staying 'in the family'. I'll get Maier's when I'm ready. The articles still a big help.
Forgot to mention the first time, I really liked your car when it was white with the black plain jane rims. I hope to get track tires in a similar setup, if I ever get this thing running....
Jon
Forgot to mention the first time, I really liked your car when it was white with the black plain jane rims. I hope to get track tires in a similar setup, if I ever get this thing running....
Jon
Cool, it's nice to know someone remembers that car from years ago!
Here's the latest post:
http://www.kolkprepared.com/2012/12/201 ... ncept.html
There are some progress shots of the car, as well as my train of thought on how to flare the rear quarter panels while using the wider '67 outer wheelhouse.
Feel free to give feedback!
Some teaser shots:
A pile of sheetmetal:
'65 vs '67 outer wheelhouses:
Use a '67-8 fender flare:
And graft it into a new complete '65 quarter panel:
Here's the latest post:
http://www.kolkprepared.com/2012/12/201 ... ncept.html
There are some progress shots of the car, as well as my train of thought on how to flare the rear quarter panels while using the wider '67 outer wheelhouse.
Feel free to give feedback!
Some teaser shots:
A pile of sheetmetal:
'65 vs '67 outer wheelhouses:
Use a '67-8 fender flare:
And graft it into a new complete '65 quarter panel:
Attachments
No updates yet, but I'm working towards progress this week. I had my father in law come down and consult this weekend. He's master fabricator and I always give his ideas a lot of attention.
His thought was to see how far I can push out the original fender and inner fender before I cut it off. That sounds like a foolproof idea to me. If nothing comes of it then I haven't lost anything, plus it could help me avoid damaging the news panels while learning.
I ordered an Eastwood fender rolling tool that should be here today. I've used it before on another car and really liked how controlled it is.
The idea has some important details though. First, I won't roll the fender lip up yet. I'll start by pushing on the flare above the lip. This will really be pushing on the inner wheel house.
To let the inner fender push out I'm going to use a cutoff wheel and cut a slit a couple inches up from the lip. This should let the outer fender move outboard with the roller. I could then fill in the gap with a small piece of steel.
Of this works on the original parts I can do it again on the new parts with them screwed in place so that after its flared I could pull it all apart and metal finish the outer wheel house so that it can all be painted so there is no bare metal hiding in there in the end.
If all of this works then I would skip the 67 wheelhouse and flare. Looking at it in more detail the length of the 67 wheel opening front to back is around an inch longer than the 65 quarter panel.
My plan above to graft in the flare may work, but it will also require a lot of body work to make it look good. I'm trying to be honest with myself and my schedule to get on track by May. I have done some bodywork in the past, but I'll be honest that my patience to get fantastic results leaves a bit to be desired.
I'll be sure to post the results of my fender rolling test.
His thought was to see how far I can push out the original fender and inner fender before I cut it off. That sounds like a foolproof idea to me. If nothing comes of it then I haven't lost anything, plus it could help me avoid damaging the news panels while learning.
I ordered an Eastwood fender rolling tool that should be here today. I've used it before on another car and really liked how controlled it is.
The idea has some important details though. First, I won't roll the fender lip up yet. I'll start by pushing on the flare above the lip. This will really be pushing on the inner wheel house.
To let the inner fender push out I'm going to use a cutoff wheel and cut a slit a couple inches up from the lip. This should let the outer fender move outboard with the roller. I could then fill in the gap with a small piece of steel.
Of this works on the original parts I can do it again on the new parts with them screwed in place so that after its flared I could pull it all apart and metal finish the outer wheel house so that it can all be painted so there is no bare metal hiding in there in the end.
If all of this works then I would skip the 67 wheelhouse and flare. Looking at it in more detail the length of the 67 wheel opening front to back is around an inch longer than the 65 quarter panel.
My plan above to graft in the flare may work, but it will also require a lot of body work to make it look good. I'm trying to be honest with myself and my schedule to get on track by May. I have done some bodywork in the past, but I'll be honest that my patience to get fantastic results leaves a bit to be desired.
I'll be sure to post the results of my fender rolling test.
Hey guys, I finally have an update. Work and shop upgrades have slowed me down. I think I'm finally starting to make progress again.
I also have baby #2 (a boy!) on the way in July, so I'm pushing to get this done before then.
http://www.kolkprepared.com/2013/03/bod ... ge-of.html
Here are some teaser shots of what's inside:
Deciding against wheel flares and starting to plan a DSE Deep Tub install:
Figuring out how to make the DSE frame rail adjustment work with the Street or Track 3-link.
Cutting the car up until it screams uncle:
And finally starting to fit up all of the new sheet metal:
There are things going on with the engine too, so that's shaping up for another blog update later.
I also have baby #2 (a boy!) on the way in July, so I'm pushing to get this done before then.
http://www.kolkprepared.com/2013/03/bod ... ge-of.html
Here are some teaser shots of what's inside:
Deciding against wheel flares and starting to plan a DSE Deep Tub install:
Figuring out how to make the DSE frame rail adjustment work with the Street or Track 3-link.
Cutting the car up until it screams uncle:
And finally starting to fit up all of the new sheet metal:
There are things going on with the engine too, so that's shaping up for another blog update later.
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
