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Installing Roof moldings on a 67 Fastback

Finally ready to finish putting this car back together. Need help on installing the chrome moldings that the door glass fits into. . I never took car apart, so i dont know how they came off and what needs to be done to put them back on. Anyone have step by step instruction, I think they should have some kind of caulking or something before they're screwed on.
 
Are you talking about the one that goes all the way around the top and back of the glass that seals to the roof rail weatherstrip?
 
the doorglass frames are driven on with a rubber mallet. there is a special cork or rubber tape that is sandwiched in between the trim & glass that holds it in place & seals it. this is kind of a tedious job that might be better off farmed out to the local glass shop as one wrong whack with the mallet & the glass could pop. if you do it yourself, use plenty of spray silicone or dish soap to help lube & ease the parts together & go slow, you want to be careful not to bow the chrome or it will not stay on.
 
The roof moldings of a fastback snappes on.
IOW , you position the molding , focus on the begin ,which is the end near the outside door handle ,and the arch on the roof lip.
Hang in the molding from the top of the roof lip and use a soft mallet to gently tap the molding.The focus is always the arch in the molding and the end at the outside door handle.4 hands do a better job then 2 hands. Mask the ends a bit because the molding can swing around when placing!!
Hope you can undrstand what I am talking about.
 
It sure sounds like he's talking about the stainless that wraps around the side glass. I did mine myself and I don't think it was all that hard. The gasket material is "Glass Setting Tape", and there is a guy on ebay that sells the right material. For the stainless to glass pieces, you'll need 1/16" thick material. If you also need to re do the bottom of the glass to the lower frame, then that uses the thicker 5/64" material. As Sellersrodshop stated, some water and dish soap works as a good lubricant.

Do the bottom frame first, then the stainless wrap. The material is about 2"wide, fold it in half and lightly set it on the frame. Dont set it too deep, you want to let the glass draw the tape in as you tap on the stainless with a rubber mallet. I fount it best to set the glass in a vertical position on a sturdy carpet covered workbench. Start at the back corner , get it completely set such that the two mounting holes line up to the lower frame. once thats set, work across the top starting from the back corner going forward. The soapy water greatly aids the install and cleans up easily too...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Glass-Setting-Tape-1-16-Inch-Thick-20-Foot-Roll_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20afa65ac9QQitemZ140385868489QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
I dont know what the moldings are named. Someone says they're called SS Trim. They fit between door glass and roof.
 
I'm looking for the part now, but there is a tape type stuff that gets laid down in the channel, then the SS piece gets screwed in place. The rubber molding sits inside the channel of the SS piece with weatherstrip adhesive to hold it in place.

Here it is:

This stuff
0003781.jpg

http://www.dallasmustang.com/mustang-parts/product/WEATHERSTRIPPING-RETAINER-CHANNEL-TO-BODY-SEAL-1983-1993/3155

Then the Roof rail (the SS piece)

then these
0004691.jpg

http://www.dallasmustang.com/mustang-parts/product/WEATHERSTRIPPING-ROOF-RAIL-1967-1968-FASTBACK-PAIR/6569

You'll need this stuff
0004542.jpg
 
For future reference the SS pieces that you're refering to are called the roof side rail filler piece and roof side rail weatherstrip channel.

Yes, they install with special large flat head screws (9 per side?) and underneath the filler piece the factory used a unique rubber/neoprene gasket like material. In todays world this material is almost identical to closed cell foam weatherstripping that is available locally at most home improvement stores.

Sorry that you asked?
 
No Dave i'm not sorry i asked got some good info. Bye the way thanks again for contacting john for me i got the paint codes and got the paint touched up.
 
"67fastback" said:
No Dave i'm not sorry i asked got some good info. Bye the way thanks again for contacting john for me i got the paint codes and got the paint touched up.


No problems.... except that I didn't realize who you were. You need to attach a picture of the FB so I can make the visual connection.
 
Do you guys remember a magazine tech article from years ago that used regular oil to set the glass in the channel? The oil would let the glass just glide into place and then the rubber would swell because of the oil and lock the glass and trim together like concrete. The article was written for 69 door glass in the door channel, I dont know if the procedure will work for the curved stainless stuff but I don't see why not. If you consider the method you get your stuff together, bathe the rubber in the oil, fold the rubber into the channel and slide the glass home. You could maybe do it in reverse too, lay the rubber on the glass the slide the trim over the glass until its home.
Just another method to consider, Grimmy
 
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