• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Did something a little goofy.....

L

LastDeadLast

Member
Well.. I got a wild hair up my butt and bought another hood for the 65.

This is probably the best fiberglass hood I've ever seen.. no waves, the contour is correct and it fits like a glove. This is the closest thing I've ever seen to a scuff and shoot fiberglass piece. The underside is just as nice as the top.

The scoop is carbon fiber. My biggest concern is how to do the paint... I can't afford to paint the stripes out.. so I'm planning to get the strips painted on but leave the scoop unpainted. Then have the scoop painted a flat clear. It's hard to see from the pics but the lemans stripes would be wider than the scoop by about a 1/2" on each side.

I'm also thinking of installing rivets around the perimeter of the scoop to give it that "I cut a hole in the hood and riveted the scoop right over the hole" look. :shrug

Anyway.. I'm still up in the air about the paint.. any suggestions?

RB_Hood_4.JPG


RB_Hood_6.JPG


RB_Hood_5.JPG


RB_Hood_3.JPG


Thanks,
-Shannon
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would not do any riveting. Since it's carbon fiber over fiberglass there's no doubt some sort of bonding agent involved. I suspect the agent, fiberglass, carbon fiber or all of them will be prone to cracking afterward. If not during the riveting.
 
Who makes the hood? Fit looks great! Did the scoop come fitted and bonded together or did you buy them separate?
 
"RyanG85" said:
Who makes the hood? Fit looks great! Did the scoop come fitted and bonded together or did you buy them separate?
Click to expand...

It's a Ring Brothers hood... it was pricey, but the hood that I had was going to require quite a bit of body work to look good. I figure I'm coming close to even once I sell the old Shelby GT350 hood and take off the body work bill that I won't have to pay.

Mike Ring assured me that is the highest quality glass hood on the market.. and from what I've seen he's right... and it should be for what it costs. That being said, someone put a lot of love into this thing when they made it. It's also made in the USA (Wisconsin), which is a plus in my book.

BTW, it was Mike Ring's suggestion to put the rivets in... But his company isn't exactly known for subtlety. :thu

Thanks for all the replies so far.....

-Shannon
 
"RyanG85" said:
Who makes the hood? Fit looks great! Did the scoop come fitted and bonded together or did you buy them separate?
Click to expand...

Sorry, forgot one question.

The scoop is layered in when the scoop is being made.. its all one piece.

-Shannon
 
I still wouldn't rivet it - while bonded when layed up, you still have two different materials bonded together.

Besides, it will make a primo hood look cheap IMO. Stick with the flat (I'd go stain or semi myself) clear.
 
:stu

That would kinda look like an old airplane. I vote no rivits. Just thinking, but if you painted the hood satin black and brought it to the bottom of the windshield and followed the top point of the fenders (like the trans am cars) and taped off the carbon fiber hood scoop, I think that would be bitchin. A single stage black with flattener would do the trick. It will require someone that is experienced with using flatteners in their paint. It also would the most cost effective.
 
"67 evil eleanor" said:
:stu

That would kinda look like an old airplane. I vote no rivits. Just thinking, but if you painted the hood satin black and brought it to the bottom of the windshield and followed the top point of the fenders (like the trans am cars) and taped off the carbon fiber hood scoop, I think that would be bitchin. A single stage black with flattener would do the trick. It will require someone that is experienced with using flatteners in their paint. It also would the most cost effective.
Click to expand...

I completely agree with ya on that.. and if the car didn't already have stripes on it.. I would do that. But the stripes would have to be removed on the front valence, the deck lid and the rear panels.. I might as well get it completely re-sprayed.. which I can't afford right now.

I'm not sure how the blacked out hood/fender tops would look with the stripes still everywhere else.. My thought is not too good.

For reference: here is the car now.. (with the old hood installed):

IMG_0073.JPG


IMG_0070.JPG


-Shannon
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I Like 67EE's suggestion. Assuming it's not a driver, being that the hood is a darn fine looking piece of work, how about just running with it like it is for a year while you recoup from the hood expense, then re-spray. The work inprogress look is not too shabby IMO when the work is high quality.
 
+1 with 67EE and apollard's comments. I will say that hood looks like it actually allows some air come into the engine bay as compared to the stock one. Nice.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. Looks like the consensus is to drop the rivets and to save up for a respray.

I might take it down to the paint shop to see what they would charge. Maybe I could just get the trunk and f/r valences re-sprayed for a reasonable cost.

Thanks for the all the feedback!

-Shannon
 
with rivets looks like a Frankenstang, or some Cuda mashup. Don't rush into any paint and possible ruin good craftsmanship. Plus it could make any future work harder.
 
I had to do a little engine work thats been delaying my progress, but I was able to get the girl out today between the torrential downpours.

I think the new hood looks bitchin. I think I'm going to do as suggested and wait to get a re-spray. The black hood doesn't look too bad.

I also got the hood pins installed:

Side_3_-_Ring_Brothers_Hood.JPG


Front_1_-_Ring_Brothers_Hood.JPG


I also took a short vid of the exhaust:


65 Mustang exhaust - YouTube


-Shannon
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top