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Convertible Mounting Plate

RapidRabbit

RapidRabbit

Well-Known Member
Donator
Hey guys

Quick question.

When I did my EFI swap I had to cut off the bolts for the reinforcement plate that goes under the transmission tunnel on a convertible.

Due to the size of the new exhaust I needed to lower it an inch or two. So it never got reinstalled. My problem is I can't find any way to reattach it.

I can find the bolts but there's no nuts or anything inside the frame seat pans to screw it into?

What am I missing here.
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You have a welder, right? I've no idea how it was mounted but I'd suggest locating it where you want it, and marking the slots of that plate on the floor pan. Drill holes, and then weld bolts from the inside to act as studs you can thread washers and nuts on from underneath to secure it.
 
What about drilling and installing rivnuts? They may not have the strength of a welded bolt, but you have been running around without the plate so it should be a step up from current
 
I'll try to get a picture of where it mounts when I get home tonight.

The holes on the plate line up with larger holes.

I think it had some sort of square bolt thay would push against the insides on the seat pans.

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Yes that's where it goes. I just don't have any nuts to bolt into. Plus a lot more rust on mine. Lol

I just wasnt sure if there was some specific nut or something to bolt into.

I went out to grab a quick picture and the wife came out to see if I was ok, stepped on a piece of metal and cut her foot. So I didn't get a great picture.

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Since the plate needs to be removable the best thing to do at this point, in my mind, is to get a piece of 11 ga steel about 1.5" wide and cut a couple pieces the length of the plate, one for each mounting side. Lay them over the plate letting the outside edge of the strips just hang over the edge of the plate and mark the hole locations. Drill holes to slip bolts through and use nuts on the other side to hold them in place. Weld the bolt heads to the plate keeping the head diameter tight. You might even grind the bolt heads knocking off the corners to make the head diameter smaller. Use a small hole saw bit, centered over the old mounting bolt locations in the car floor pan to remove the old studs and make clearance for the welded heads of the bolts on the new adapter strips. Now hold the plate (with the two mounting strips attached) up against the pan, the bolt head now recessed into the holes you drilled so the pan can sit flush. Put a tack weld at each corner where the mounting strips you made contact the floor pan. unbolt the actual plate and stitch weld the adapter strips to the pan. Bolt the plate back on and you're done.

OR

Get a Rivnut too and mount it that way, as Ken suggested You'd have to drill new holes in the plate and new holes into which to put the Rivnuts into the floor pan as you'll not want to try and drill out the old studs from the stock location. This will not be as strong but likely more than enough. Better than no plate! Hell of a lot easier too. We all know Ken likes to take the easy way out on everything.
 
Hey, you started this with your "wimpy 347" BS. Reap what you sow. And furthermore, I'll have you know, I've been called way worse than a "common denominator". Go ahead and team up with the househusband. Doesn't scare me.
 
Now now...we are mucking up Pat's thread with a factual comment I made on my own thread. I can grab Mikey too, then we will see who is scared, ever faced that reflection coming off the top of his head. That and Mark's ears we are a formidable trio!
 
Mucked up thread? Here at the Fix? Never.

And yes, I've faced Mike's chrome-dome laser glare and twas nothin' to reflect it right back with my own. And the threat of a breeze off ole flappers head curtains is not at all intimidating.
 
I prefer to mount women vice convertibles. Something is wrong with the Mr. Rabbit...
 
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