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Brake lights Update

JeffTepper

Well-Known Member
I'm working on a '67 coupe and I am having difficulty getting the master cylinder pushrod to activate the brake light switch. I've already tested the switch for continuity and it is fine. I substituted a known good switch with no improvement. When I push the switch up at an angle so the master cylinder pushrod contacts the spring loaded plate in the brake light switch, the brake lights come on. Mechanically, it appears that under normal operation, when you press the brake pedal with your foot, the movement of the brake pedal forward causes the master cylinder push rod to slightly tilt relative to the brakelight switch and in so doing, the edge of the flat side of the push rod deflects the spring loaded plate in the brake light switch closing the circuit and sending power to the brake lights. It seems that the space between the master cylinder push rod and the brake light switch is too big. Anyone have any ideas?

Additional facts include:
4 wheel manual drum brakes;
plastic bushing for mounting brake light switch on brake pedal pin is there;
one of two plastic spacers on either side of the switch is there;
jumping the two wires at the brake light switch plug activates the brake lights.

TIA, Jeff

Update *********The solution was a different master cylinder puchrod with more meat on the back side (the flat surface that contacts the flat plate on the brake light switch). Makes me wonder how, or if, the brake lights worked previously!!!
 
Re: Brake lights

Been awhile sence I did this but, I removed the plate and bent it slightly to remove that gap
between the rod end and plate.
Did kinda bow to it to keep rod centered on plate and it is still working.
 
Re: Brake lights

spray some contact cleaner inside the switch - that might help.

[technical] There may be some schmutz in the contacts and the cleaner will remove it.[/technical]
 
Re: Brake lights

"cmayna" said:
Jeff,
Did you get it resolved?
Haven't had time yet. As for the schmutz or "fub" as I call it, one of the switches I tested was brand new so that shouldn't be a problem. It just seems that the space between the master cylinder push rod and the metal plate in the brake switch are too far apart for it to work.

I'm planning to check with Mitch @ Mustang Fever tomorrow and see what he thinks.
 
Re: Brake lights

Jeff, when I swapped out the jelly jar master cylinder to a dual reservoir on the wife's 65, I had to remove the plastic bushing to make the brake lights work. Just outta curiosity, I also looked on my fastback which I did the same swap (but a long time ago), and no plastic bushing there either. And when I installed one, the brake lights stopped working. Don't know if that helps any....
 
Re: Brake lights

"66gt350" said:
Jeff, when I swapped out the jelly jar master cylinder to a dual reservoir on the wife's 65, I had to remove the plastic bushing to make the brake lights work. Just outta curiosity, I also looked on my fastback which I did the same swap (but a long time ago), and no plastic bushing there either. And when I installed one, the brake lights stopped working. Don't know if that helps any....
Interesting idea Rob. Did you leave in the side spacers?
 
Re: Brake lights

Jeff
If I remember correctly there is a differents in brakelight switch and the push rod for the mastercylinder differents also.
Here some pics , hope this will help in some way.
 

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Re: Brake lights

"JeffTepper" said:
Interesting idea Rob. Did you leave in the side spacers?

It's been a while since I looked under the dash, but IIRC the side spacers are there...but let me double check that when I get home.
 
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