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Brake Light Staying On

W

Waffles

Member
OK, so needless to say, if this was going to happen, it HAD to be on my wedding day, in which the car was largely involved.

All of a sudden, I noticed my brake lights were staying on all the time. Whatever. I drove it anyway.

What is the most likely cause? Just the brake light switch attached to the brake pedal? Is this where I should start? I had attached it once I did my disc conversion, but I had some questions about that too...

I did the CSRP kit and it makes a noise in the car... from the pedal now... can't really describe it other than like vacuum or air? ONLY when the brake pedal is NOT depressed. when I apply the brakes, the sound goes away.

Anyway, the brake lights had been working fine, for as long as I'm aware, then one day I have a dead battery. Get a new one and see the brake lights staying on.

Suggestions on where to start?

Thanks
 
Start with the brake light switch. On side should have power all the time, with the other side getting power when the pedal is pressed. If you have 4 way flashers, there could be a problem there or the turn signals if it is not the brake light switch.
 
I've heard that if you have an adjustable push rod to the MC, a mis-adjustment can keep the MC from releasing completely and thus, your brake light switch may stay on.

So...when are you going to provide details of the wedding nite? *G*
 
from the pedal now... can't really describe it other than like vacuum or air? ONLY when the brake pedal is NOT depressed. when I apply the brakes, the sound goes away.
Click to expand...

This sounds to me like a bad static angle on the input arm/pushrod for the booster. If the input arm/pushrod is not lined up straight "into" the PB, you'll experience a vacuum leak.... hearing a "hissing" noise. Did the car originally come with power brakes or did you swap it over to power brakes? If you swapped it over to PDB, I believe you should also have changed the brake pedal to maintain the proper angle on the input arm/pushrod.
 
Well clearly u old farts were virgins before your wedding.

Lets see. We left the ceremony, drove the mustang with the brake lights on the entire time to the Dearborn Inn (owned by Ford, and very historic. Figured It couldn't hurt to put some money in Ford's pocket.) carried all her shit into the room. there was 4 chocolate covered strawberries onthe bed. needless to say I ate all of them while she was in the bathroom, and then threw away any tracing of them having been there to begin with, we f***ed and fell asleep.

I got up 4 hours later and woke her up, put everything back in the car and dropped her off at home (yes, the morning after the wedding) at 9 am, then met two of my buddies and went to a collector's firearms show.

THEN, I came back and we drove up to Frankenmuth, MI, for a classic car show.

She hates me. She's got to.

Oh, BTW, if it helps diagnosing my brake light problem; the lights stay on even if the keys are out of the car... I have to disconnect the battery...
 
Brake lights are always powered on, and don't require a key. I suspect the push rod and/or brake switch. Dave Sanborn's concept of an out-of-alignment push rod sounds worthwhile (as much as I hate to admit he may have a good idea...).

I don't remember much of my wedding night; we both got pretty drunk...had to, because the hotel was out of paper bags large enough for our heads.
 
Ok, I'm going to check into it all tomorrow or thursday.

Thanks for the advice, sandybornnn. It was originally manual drum, so the pushrod could be off, i suppose? I hope to pull my engine this winter and redo the top end so itll be easier to access then, i suppose, if I can't gewt it solved easily...

would that explain too the fact that it has emptied the front bowl twice now? (3 monthes of disc brakes) with no evidence of leaks? someone said its possible it got sucked into the booster? i mean, wtf?

so far the brakes are nice to have, but i am fairly disappointed with the overall fit and finish.
 
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