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Boom's Boosted Bullitt
- Thread starter Boom
- Start date
Long break over winter. Finally fired the old Bullitt up to get it ready for summer driving here in PA.
Had to replclace the battery. Old one wouldn't charge. Looked at some Optima options but they apparently don't fit without modification and I didn't want to mess with that right now. Got a generic Autobone battery for now.
I did notice some smoke coming up from near the headers. Turned it off immediately and looked around. Don't see anything, maybe it's just crud/dirt from sitting for 6 months? I also moved it forward to get off the leaves the accumulated under the car in case that was it too.
Had to replclace the battery. Old one wouldn't charge. Looked at some Optima options but they apparently don't fit without modification and I didn't want to mess with that right now. Got a generic Autobone battery for now.
I did notice some smoke coming up from near the headers. Turned it off immediately and looked around. Don't see anything, maybe it's just crud/dirt from sitting for 6 months? I also moved it forward to get off the leaves the accumulated under the car in case that was it too.
For the first time EVER I tried to fire up the mustang for the initial start for the season and the 9 year old red top just couldn't quite do it. My fault as I hadn't started it once since about early last August. I am bad owner letting it sit that long. Took a charge fine though and we had a nice long drive to get reacquainted.
I did pull up the few optimal they had at Autobone and checked, they had one that had the same footprint base but it was at least an inch taller. I hadn't checked hood clearance so I didn't want to chance it this time.
I will probably get one next time around. I also have to pull the battery tray out most likely now, the hold down bolt snapped off when I removed the old battery. Super lame.
I do have a few big projects lined up for the Bullitt here hopefully in the next week or so. Pics to come soon.
I'm on a slight time crunch since I volunteered for another trip overseas in the fall.
I will probably get one next time around. I also have to pull the battery tray out most likely now, the hold down bolt snapped off when I removed the old battery. Super lame.
I do have a few big projects lined up for the Bullitt here hopefully in the next week or so. Pics to come soon.
I'm on a slight time crunch since I volunteered for another trip overseas in the fall.
Gave it a quick wipe down with some wet rags to try and get some of the pollen off. I'll give it a proper wash once I get it to my shop.
Here's what it looked like before
Need to get that bumper redone. Been debating between repainting this bumper, getting a new GT bumper, or getting the new 99-01 Cobra bumper LMR just came out with. Not wanting to do the generic terminator clone I've seen alot of folks do.
Here's what it looked like before
Need to get that bumper redone. Been debating between repainting this bumper, getting a new GT bumper, or getting the new 99-01 Cobra bumper LMR just came out with. Not wanting to do the generic terminator clone I've seen alot of folks do.
Also, one of the only gripes i get when I go in for an inspection is the lack of an egr. Said it's just a visual check. So if I were to hooked this line up to the exhaust it should be fine and not affect performance? Planned on either getting s cap on header port and making the tube appear to be connected or putting a plate on intake under egr valve itself.
Current setup the previous owner had was headers and the egr is present but just floating at headers. Since current headers don't have a port
Or is just running the egr properly the best course of action?
Current setup the previous owner had was headers and the egr is present but just floating at headers. Since current headers don't have a port
Or is just running the egr properly the best course of action?
Long term running the EGR correctly is the best course of action. Should you ever be required to do an actual emissions test you'd fail otherwise. I have to think not running it as set-up from the factory might cause issues with the ECM anyway. I'm not a SMOG control expert at all but since this set-up really affects combustion volume/content and hence AFR I'd think the engine would run fat with it disconnected unless there is another sensor monitoring EGR volume/flow at the intake manifold connection. I don't think any gain of disconnecting is great enough to make the difference worth it not too mention insuring failed emission testing.
Makes sense. I'm trying to get this car street legal, even added cats back onto it.
I have a new exhaust setup which will allow me to run the egr so I may just do that and see how it goes.
My heater core is failing, I get a sweet smell while driving. I already have the parts. Just not looking forward to actually removing the dash. Noticed some slight smoke from defrost vents in the drive in this morning. Core may have finally went. Haven't had a chance to check closer.
I have a new exhaust setup which will allow me to run the egr so I may just do that and see how it goes.
My heater core is failing, I get a sweet smell while driving. I already have the parts. Just not looking forward to actually removing the dash. Noticed some slight smoke from defrost vents in the drive in this morning. Core may have finally went. Haven't had a chance to check closer.
Heater core gave up this morning on the drive in. Car puked coolant everywhere.
Luckily I had a new motorcraft heater core on hand. You really have to tear the car apart to get to it tho.
I got the new core in and started putted the dash back in. I plan to finish tomorrow. The hoses have terrible spring clamps that I need to somehow get off. They're in a terrible position. I have new hoses too.
Luckily I had a new motorcraft heater core on hand. You really have to tear the car apart to get to it tho.
I got the new core in and started putted the dash back in. I plan to finish tomorrow. The hoses have terrible spring clamps that I need to somehow get off. They're in a terrible position. I have new hoses too.
It's insane how manufacturers don't make an access panel to ease replacement. Could make it so much easier.
Car is all back together and fired up without issue. Some smoke from the old coolant that had leaked so I turned it off and dump some water over that area. Gonna let it dry and then fire it up again.
Hoping to get it inspected and then next week possibly look at doing the IRS or exhaust install.
Hoping to get it inspected and then next week possibly look at doing the IRS or exhaust install.
Haven't had a chance to do the exhaust yet. Been gathering parts and finishing up a project on my truck. Just picked up an engine support bar from Harborland.
I have been collecting parts to replace the headlights. Started with a nice looking projector housing, got it from American Muscle but had them price match LMR:
The main complaint with these housings is thst the included bulb and wiring are trash. I planned to rectify that by using a different bulb and wiring setup.
I know some folks will grumble. My intent is not to blind anyone, but to have a nice, crisp clean light output. These housings are made specifically to be projectors. My truck has had a similar setup for years without issue.
You have the ability to clock the bulb with some set screws. The company says the wiring should come out torwards the ground. I went ahead and adjusted them and then went ahead and modified the rubber cover to allow the small Control box to exit:
The wiring is completely plug and play into the existing headlight harness if you get the items like I got. I got the adapter to go from H1 to 9007 and also the pulse width flicker control box. That is to prevent the leds from flickering. Please excuse my dirty and paint faded bumper.
I did mock them up for a test fit before taking then off to get sealed up. I think they look nice, much cleaner then alot of the gaudy headlight options I see for these cars.
I have been collecting parts to replace the headlights. Started with a nice looking projector housing, got it from American Muscle but had them price match LMR:
The main complaint with these housings is thst the included bulb and wiring are trash. I planned to rectify that by using a different bulb and wiring setup.
I know some folks will grumble. My intent is not to blind anyone, but to have a nice, crisp clean light output. These housings are made specifically to be projectors. My truck has had a similar setup for years without issue.
You have the ability to clock the bulb with some set screws. The company says the wiring should come out torwards the ground. I went ahead and adjusted them and then went ahead and modified the rubber cover to allow the small Control box to exit:
The wiring is completely plug and play into the existing headlight harness if you get the items like I got. I got the adapter to go from H1 to 9007 and also the pulse width flicker control box. That is to prevent the leds from flickering. Please excuse my dirty and paint faded bumper.
I did mock them up for a test fit before taking then off to get sealed up. I think they look nice, much cleaner then alot of the gaudy headlight options I see for these cars.
I'll be honest and say I am not a fan of the lights. I can appreciate the thought that went into the set-up and the technical effort to make it all work though! I'm a big fan of integrating modern tech into older vehicles just not at the expense of the visual loss of the old aesthetic...but you do you. It's your car.