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Anyone installed sound deadener with everything installed on the firewall?

J

JohnnyK

Member
Before I knew it, the firewall was completely in place, and now I have about 100ft^2 of raamat.. Anyone tried cutting little pieces and installing them? I'd rather not dismantle the firewall, as some of it is pretty well stuck in there due to some mods.. ;)

Only place I'm really worried about is behind the heater box.. DOes it have to go back there, or is there no room anyways?
 
Yes, there's room behind the heater box, no it doesn't have to be there. It doesn't have to be anywhere. Is it nice to have every sq. inch of cabin compartment isolated from any possible road noise? Yes, but it ain't going to kill you or anyone else to leave a few spots un-insulated.
 
Yes and no.

Even though the sound deadening material is not applied to every sq.in., you'll still receive the benefit as if it were by skipping a couple spots here and there.

If you consider that the sound deadening material is less of an insulator and more of a "reducer of harmonic resonance". With this thought in mind, if only a 12"x12" section of sound deadener is applied to the inside of a door panel.... the entire door skin seems as if it were made of heavier gauge steel because that one covered section is "thicker".
 
Damn you Randy. You beat me to it.

Just crank up the stereo a little more and roll the windows down a little more. That will compensate for not having the matt material up on the firewall.
 
I installed extra in little pieces and even with the under dash cleared smaller pieces work much better for all the humps.
 
You mean you forgot to do this?

427_12_01_10_12_12_07_3.jpg


BTW, I also shot the inside of the firewall, back side of the dash, and underside of the cowl with white paint. Nothing like having it clean and bright up under there to install everything that goes in those tight and ackward spaces. None of the white will be seen once its all together.

Sorry I couldn't help. I am on a mission to get 100% coverage with the sound deadener.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Yes and no.

If you consider that the sound deadening material is less of an insulator and more of a "reducer of harmonic resonance". With this thought in mind, if only a 12"x12" section of sound deadener is applied to the inside of a door panel.... the entire door skin seems as if it were made of heavier gauge steel because that one covered section is "thicker".
Click to expand...

I did this with both doors.When i close the door , if gives a nice and soft sound !! Like mercedes !!.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Yes and no.


If you consider that the sound deadening material is less of an insulator and more of a "reducer of harmonic resonance"........
Click to expand...

Exactly!!! Everyone thinks this thin foil coated stuff we label is a sound deadener but it isn't. It is a vibration damper that applied on the interior sheet metal of the car to destroy unwanted vibrations & structure borne noise.

For airborne sound deadening, you need to use a noise barrier which is thicker. Something like Second Skin's luxury liner which is layed on top of the foil vibration deadener.
 
R
"cmayna" said:
Exactly!!! Everyone thinks this thin foil coated stuff we label is a sound deadener but it isn't. It is a vibration damper that applied on the interior sheet metal of the car to destroy unwanted vibrations & structure borne noise.

For airborne sound deadening, you need to use a noise barrier which is thicker. Something like Second Skin's luxury liner which is layed on top of the foil vibration deadener.
Click to expand...

Right +1
 
The actual process I used for the firewall (and will use for the roof) was raammat bxt as the first layer, then the Heat Shield (from NPD), then the raamat ensolite (closed cell foam) on top. The floors, doors, and inside of the interior (back side of quarters and wheelhouses) will just get raammat and the ensolite. I contemplated using the Heat Shield for the floors too but its a good 1/2-3/4" thick and I didn't want to have that much space taken up. IF the car isn't as quiet as I like I may go back and add the Heat Shield anyhow.
 
Right
Mustangs were built for the baby boomers generation and had to be affordable for the young generation.
The styling ( long hood , short deck ) was revolutionary for that time but the rest was made as cheap as possible.( unibody )
Yesterday I blasted my hood hinges and noticed that the rivets they used are of a bad concept!
I had to weld the rivets ( on the stamped site ) and then i had to take WD40 to loose things up.
Window regulator are the same.
But then again, I must admit, it surprises me things still working after 40 years !!! ( sort of )
 
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