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And the candles are LIT!

I built a remote started from a push button switch 20 + years ago. Then one showed up in my tool box that was store bought. Now I have two! I use them all the time.

when I move the battery and solenoid to the trunk, It may be difficult.

Mel
 
Steve , good job!!!!
.Some suggestions IMHO.
I saw an electric fan, didn't i ? Try to switch the fan by a thermo switch so you have all the juice to start the engine.( voltage drop )When disconnecting the jumper cable, first disconnect the plus cable on both cars so you can not short circuit either battery of on of the cars.
Front support underneath the car ... i would rather place them under a chassis beam left and right nearby the torkboxes.Safety issue. ( i know , bad english . try to help )
 
When disconnecting the jumper cable, first disconnect the plus cable on both cars so you can not short circuit either battery of on of the cars.
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The correct way to disconnect jumper cables is exactly the reverse of connecting: the first one to come off is the ground on the jumped car, then the ground on the donor car. Then the positive of the jumped car, and finally the positive of the jumped car. Once the negative cable is removed, keep it far away from the positive cable.
 
"B67FSTB" said:
Some suggestions IMHO.
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Suggestions are always welcome. I admit that I'm flying blind a lot of times here. I am definitely in over my head, and just keep going from sheer force of will.

I saw an electric fan, didn't i ? Try to switch the fan by a thermo switch so you have all the juice to start the engine.( voltage drop )
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Yep, crappy electric setup as a pusher. I do not think it will be the fan I go with, as I want to use a puller configuration, and that one is too thick to fit as a puller, plus it's an auto-zone cheapy, and I doubt it pulls near enough CFM. AND it's loud...so it's a total failure :)

And right now it's switched with the Ignition. My short list of things to do before I'm ready for the street absolutely includes a thermo-switch. I'm just not there yet. I'm trying to take what WAS a driving car that fell out of dis-repair and getting it back to an ugly driver, but one that's in much better shape than it was when I last moth-balled it. I will do a full correct, media blasted resto on it one day, but there's no WAY I could do it now, neither time nor money are plentiful enough.

When disconnecting the jumper cable, first disconnect the plus cable on both cars so you can not short circuit either battery of on of the cars.
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YEah I know I did that wrong...I knew I was doing it wrong when I did it. I wish I could say it was my only mistake, but there were many.

Front support underneath the car ... i would rather place them under a chassis beam left and right nearby the torkboxes.Safety issue. ( i know , bad english . try to help )
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Now that you mention it, those stands are a little further forward than I usually like to put them. I am probably gonna pull the car off the stands in the next couple of days, but yeah I usually like to put it where the framerail,apron,and Firwall all meet. Remember that as a '66, mine does not have torque-boxes (yet), but that's still a better place for the stands.

I appreciate your input. And new rule: you're not allowed to apologize for your English anymore. If you didn't point out that English isn't your first language, I would not have even picked up on it. Honestly, you have a better grasp of sentence structure, grammar and spelling than a LOT of native English speakers. Don't sweat it anymore.
:)
 
Thanks Steve and concerning the jumper cables , I think both ways are good.What you say Midlife ?
 
The reason for the jumper cable install/removal pattern is to keep any possible sparks away from any possible battery fumes.
 
I forgot to mention that the negative battery cable should not go onto the jumpered car's negative post, but elsewhere on the chassis. The reason, as Pete says, is to keep the spark away from any gases being emitted from the battery.
 
battery fumes occures with bad battery.Batterys with a too low acid level and have been overheated.
I was referring to a situation with a regular low voltage battery .But yes , battery fumes are dangerous.
A battery that explodes is something you don't want to experience.
 
"B67FSTB" said:
battery fumes occures with bad battery.Batterys with a too low acid level and have been overheated.
I was referring to a situation with a regular low voltage battery .But yes , battery fumes are dangerous.
A battery that explodes is something you don't want to experience.
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A lot of people will not know the condition of their battery....dead is dead.....first thing is to jump it, then worry as to why it is dead. Safety.....
 
"AtlantaSteve" said:
And new rule: you're not allowed to apologize for your English anymore. If you didn't point out that English isn't your first language, I would not have even picked up on it. Honestly, you have a better grasp of sentence structure, grammar and spelling than a LOT of native English speakers. Don't sweat it anymore.
Click to expand...
+1
 
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