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ALU RADIATOR

B67FSTB

The NorCal dude from Belgium
Need some info about alu rads .
Which brand and where to buy .
No racing use.
Those from Rockauto any good ?
Should cool a 351W w T5z trans , visco with shroud are there.
Any suggestions are welcome
 
I have had good luck with Engineered Cooling Products radiators. I don't know if they make them for the 67-68 years, but my two row keeps the 306 plenty cool even in stop in go traffic in 100F temps. I previously had one of the more expensive 4 row units, it worked well but not as good as the large two row radiator. Also make sure you use some sort of sacrificial anode to protect the radiator. I lost the first one in two years from galvanic corrosion.
 
Northern Radiators are good in my book. I've had the same one in the 66 since 2004. No problems.
 
I bought a US Radiator produced radiator (brass and cooper, I realize you're looking for aluminum recommendations but thought I'd throw this out as an option ) when I did all my upgrades in 2017/18 on the recommendation of Rick at NPD. On the expensive side but after putting so much of my wife's money into the rebuilding of the 289, I didn't want to cheap out on the cooling aspect of it. YMMV

John
 
If you search the old posts here you will find way back when as I was putting my car together I spent a lot of time in this area and found ECP (Engineered Cooling Products) and eventually went with a unit from them. They are local to the Chicago area which was a big deciding factor for me. In the end, I couldn't be happier. Their unit made for a 65/66 handles the job and has for many, many years now. Mine is a high compression, bored and stroked 347. I DRIVE IT HARD. I have no concerns about cooling. I've sat in rush hour traffic for hours without it ever seeing temp creep.

The key to a good aluminum radiator is how it is constructed. Has to be quality alloy. The welds need to be done correctly. If not you can see cracking, etc. Most important is the design of the cooling tubes, etc. ECP was one of the very first to understand that a bigger set of two rows out performs any three or four row with equal radiator (tube) depth. It's pretty basic math to calculate surface areas of all to see that two one inch tubes can dissipate more heat all other things equal. You've also got less welds ect. to worry about failing.

Did I mention that historically ECP is also on the lower pricing scale?!
 
Well, I decided to repair my alu rad at a ,not so closeby, special rad shop.
They do exspecially alu rads for all different kinds.
He said he will put a reinforced net in it.
Also a provision for a zinc anode.
Costs will be around 600€.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk
 
That IS extremely expensive. At least by US standards. What exactly is a "reinforced net"? As far as anodes go, I bought and installed a simple piece into the threaded port meant for a drain petcock. I can just remove it to drain the rad and/or see how it is surviving in the process.
 
That IS extremely expensive. At least by US standards. What exactly is a "reinforced net"? As far as anodes go, I bought and installed a simple piece into the threaded port meant for a drain petcock. I can just remove it to drain the rad and/or see how it is surviving in the process.
I bought a radiator cap with the anode hanging on the bottom. That way every time I check the fluids I can put my eyes on the anode! The cap may not be as pretty as some of the billet pieces out there, but it is much more functional.
 
Yeah I've seen more of the cap arrangements, but like the drain idea
The only problem being you have to pull the drain plug to look at the anode and the fluid will drain.. I would assume Terry just sticks his fat finger in the hole when he pulls the plug!
 
Sorry, by "net" I meant core.
Reinforced probably thicker material.
I have no choice cause there are not so many places that repair alu rads. Copper no problem.
At least I have warranty now.
I don't know anymore where I got this rad from. It hardly saw the road. I did measure for electrolyses and to my knowledge I didn't have.
I have a zinc anode with 1/4 NPT thread and told the repair shop to weld a thicker piece on the rad so I can later on drill a hole and tap that 1/4NPT thread.


Verstuurd vanaf mijn CPH2663 met Tapatalk
 
The only problem being you have to pull the drain plug to look at the anode and the fluid will drain.. I would assume Terry just sticks his fat finger in the hole when he pulls the plug!
Now I'm being fat shamed?! I may have put on a few pounds after a handful of decades of living but I'm not so sure I meet the level of being called fat, you left coast dress wearing commie lib!
 
Sorry, by "net" I meant core.
Reinforced probably thicker material.
I have no choice cause there are not so many places that repair alu rads. Copper no problem.
At least I have warranty now.
I don't know anymore where I got this rad from. It hardly saw the road. I did measure for electrolyses and to my knowledge I didn't have.
I have a zinc anode with 1/4 NPT thread and told the repair shop to weld a thicker piece on the rad so I can later on drill a hole and tap that 1/4NPT thread.


Verstuurd vanaf mijn CPH2663 met Tapatalk
Did you look at these? There are a lot of cars running around Oz (excluding supercharged) using these radiators without any issues in our 40C degree summers. Might be a good option if the car isn't a daily ride.

 
Now I'm being fat shamed?! I may have put on a few pounds after a handful of decades of living but I'm not so sure I meet the level of being called fat, you left coast dress wearing commie lib!
Wow...way to elevate it. Guilty conscience? I just said you had a fat finger to shove in the drain hole.....never commented on body type. But as my mom used to say......if the shoe fits.......
 
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