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Aligning My Mustang, What do I need

Bad66GT

Bad66GT

Banned :)
Donator
I've gone this far, might as well align the damn thing too.

I want to do caster, camber and toe....what are all the tools I need and what do I need to put under the tires so they move freely? And would prefer something more accurate than just a tape measure....I swear I saw something that does use a tape measure but its fixed against the tires.

AND, How am I certain that the car won't crab or anything since I wont be certain the fronts are lined up to the rear like a "4 wheel" alignment...yes I do realize I cant alter the rear :)

Thanks!!!

Chris
 
If you got crabs I hear you can drown them in the pool...

I've got the tools - longacre caster/ camber gauge and the steel plates/ tape measures for toe. but haven't attempted yet. You need something for the tires to slide on easily (left/ right; inward/ outward) like a black trashbag cut up. I was going to get some cheap vinyl floor tiles and put plastic or grease between them. You need to be able to bounce the car to let the tires settle so they have to slide easily.

There are plenty of YT vids but the pros will chime in.
 
Caper50 said:
I have the Longacre bubble caster/camber gauge and toe-plates. the thick contractor garbage bags work great folded over a couple of times. Just follow their instructions. Longacre Caster/Camber Gauge Instructions Once you start working through it I think you will be pleasantly surprised just how easy it is to do yourself especially with your SOT suspension.
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Thank you!

Real question, how do you know your front wheels are squared with the rear?

Chris
 
You can run strings on jack stands at all 4 corners to see that they're the same distance from the string to the center of the wheel. You'll need to look up your track width F/ R to calculate the difference and see that they are equal side to side.
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I would also measure your rear wheels are the same distance to the wheel arch's forward/ rearward to see if the diff could be cocked possibly (caster).
 
I used jackstands and string for a square comparison. Great thing about doing your own alignment, is once you learn how, you wont need to trust anyone else. Besides, Everytime I change anything I need to align it again. +1 on the Longacre gauge. I put bearing grease between thick plastic, and with the tie rods dropped you can turn them by hand real easy. The reason I drop the tie rods is, I can set caster without the resistance of the other wheel, and I don't need the steering wheel, I keep it locked on center, and it's not part of the equation. some say camber then caster, I've read opposite, but I am always double checking both and with the longacre gauge it's easy enough to do. Also have read DO NOT use a tire tread for toe, as they have imperfections, or scribe a line on the tread etc, I used the tire tread. Once you get it figured out, you will know your car VERY well and know why it drives how it drives. My record most recently is 31 seconds hands off at 55! (yes I count)
 
Are you just trying to get it close to get it to an alignment shop or learning to do your own?

Here's another quick overview on a '65
 
I made this pointer. Decided the clamps were too bulky, so I modified that but you get the idea. Pointer at the back of the tire, observe where it is, and then pointer the front and note the difference in/out. Once I get that close, then I slip the tie rods in, and fine tune with the adjusters. I don't know if it's the most correct method, but I've made it work for me.


7LeBOtm.jpg
 
Jonk67 said:
Are you just trying to get it close to get it to an alignment shop or learning to do your own?

Here's another quick overview on a '65
Click to expand...
I want to do it on my own. Alignment shops can’t seem to get it right here in Texas near me. I found a guy in Illinois that did it right once but spent 4 hours doing it as he’s a perfectionist like me.

Especially with the fenders off, easiest time to put shims in. I want 1.5 or so negative camber, as much caster as possible and 1/8 toe in.

Sounds easy but apparently not around here.

And after installing my quick steer kit and beating the hell out of my $600 oil pan, I want to know it’s right. I just don’t trust many people anymore.

Chris
 
There was a guy who joined the other forum recently who claimed to be working on these cars when they were new, and I asked him about the way they aligned them back then. He said no.
So, I guess I'll never know. I used string/jackstands again for my caster. Got a framing square to eyeball my 20* it's been said that it doesn't have to be exactly 20* but it's a good bench. It wound up being about 3" from the tire. Turned my tire by hand and when the front of the tire touched the string zero the gauge. When the back of the tire touched the string shows where the caster is. I might have that backwards it's been a bit but that's how I remember. Also the good thing about not using the steering wheel, you can have eyes right on the gauge, and whatever method you use, some like tape on the floor, I used both. I found that you can go a little further than 20, or not quite 20 and the gauge wont change that much, so I don't know how crucial that 20* benchmark is. When I first tried it a few years ago I borrowed a set of caster plates with the locking pin and printed degree field etc, and I found it's not really any more accurate. Mine has never been better than it is right now. I know that it can feel right, without actually being right, but I haven't experienced any abnormal tire wear. Also I have manual steering so I can feel everything I don't know if that makes a difference.
 
A Longacre digital or bubble gauge will make it easy. Jack stands and string to make sure it’s square. For the toe you can easily make an adjustment one out of box tubing. I used 2 pcs of 1/4” masonite under each wheel. A little graphite between them made them pretty slick.
I don’t have a pic on my phone, but if you’re interested in the toe gauge I’ll find it on the computer.

It all made changing the front end of the racecar pretty easy.
 
Thanks everyone!!

I don’t mind spending $3-400 to do it myself and not worry about scratches, damage etc.

Does anyone know if there is a shim kit. I haven’t yet converted my lower control arms to handle camber. It’s still all upstairs(upper control arms. :) )

Chris
 
Most auto parts places sell shims. I think even Harbor Freight had some when I was in the Odessa store. I have an assortment of 1/32nd, 1/16th and 1/8" in my garage. Amazon and Summit is another source.
 
msell66 said:
A Longacre digital or bubble gauge will make it easy. Jack stands and string to make sure it’s square. For the toe you can easily make an adjustment one out of box tubing. I used 2 pcs of 1/4” masonite under each wheel. A little graphite between them made them pretty slick.
I don’t have a pic on my phone, but if you’re interested in the toe gauge I’ll find it on the computer.

It all made changing the front end of the racecar pretty easy.
Click to expand...
I think garbage bags between some masonite works well too if no graphite.
 
I have toe plates that go against the tires and it came with two tape measures. I also just bought a Longacre style gauge off Marketplace. Amazon has some really cheap camber castor digital gauges, not sure how good those are.
 
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