1967 Dynacorn Fastback

[GPR]

We went to install the brake pedal and steering column bracket and it would not fit. The dash was installed wrong and had to be moved toward the firewall the bracket was 1" to short from lining up. We compared the distance from the dash to the firewall on my 68 Coupe to determine the dash was in wrong.

 

[GPR]

Something fits with just a little modification

The taillights fit after trimming the rubber seal a little

Once the holes on the fenders were elongated the headlight buckets fit

The amazing thing was after all the work on the door gaps the edge of the hood lined up with both headlight buckets from CJ Pony Parts. The Dynacorn headlight buckets have been on back order for over a month and I was told probably another two months before they would be available so we got them from CJ's. They are a little ripply and will require some blocking but they fit.

 

[Anonymous]

The drool continues............. :gs

 

[janschutz]

Looks very nice!

 

[Horseplay]

As I read each of these updates, I can't help but wonder how I would feel if I dropped that kind of coin on one of these shells and then had to do all this work just to get it to where you would expect it to be upon receipt. Given all that has had to be done so far just to get where parts could be bolted on, what would you put a customer labor cost to be if you were to do it for them? I'm thinking the total money spent would be better used restoring a "real" fastback.

 

[GPR]

As I read each of these updates, I can't help but wonder how I would feel if I dropped that kind of coin on one of these shells and then had to do all this work just to get it to where you would expect it to be upon receipt. Given all that has had to be done so far just to get where parts could be bolted on, what would you put a customer labor cost to be if you were to do it for them? I'm thinking the total money spent would be better used restoring a "real" fastback.

The big difference is you are not having to do all the rust repair. Once you do all the rust repair and fit the aftermarket sheetmetal your cost will be about the same or higher restoring a Mustang.

 

[Horseplay]

The big difference is you are not having to do all the rust repair. Once you do all the rust repair and fit the aftermarket sheetmetal your cost will be about the same or higher restoring a Mustang.

I figured that in my thought process but at the end of the day, even if you drop a few thousand more restoring vs. new body, aren't you ahead with the original in terms of value and simply "coolness" (can't find the word I want here)?

As long as there are still viable originals out there I think I would go that route. It is kind of disappointing that the new bodies seem to have so many issues. If/when you get your next one it will be interesting to see if it is better or worse in this regard.

 

[GPR]

We have been working on a couple of things I can't show at this time. A modified lower front valance and a future story in Modified Mustangs & Fords magazine showing a period correct looking hood latch with an under the dash hood release.

But I can show this

 

[GPR]

This is what Brian has been fabricating. It is an under the dash hood release. The hood required a lot of fabrication along with this latch that came off of another Ford. To find out all the details you will have to read the build story in an upcoming issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords magazine.

 

[Gigantopithecus]

Oohh do want.

 

[GPR]

We removed all the suspension now it goes on a cart to prime and finish all the the bodywork

 

[GPR]

Read all about the under dash hood release install in an upcoming issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords magazine.

 

[GPR]

We have been working on getting the fenders, headlight buckets and doors to line up

The body was sanded down to bare metal and the next step is spray 2 coats of SPI black epoxy

 

[B67FSTB]

We removed all the suspension now it goes on a cart to prime and finish all the the bodywork

:wor :wor :wor :wor :wor :wor :wor :wor :wor
:weas :weas :weas :weas :weas :weas :weas

 

[GPR]

The rear valance had a tack weld and also bolts.

Instead of studs on the valance Dynacorn used 2 different size bolts and washers from inside the trunk and attached to clips on the valance

We wanted to take off the rear valance to see what was behind it and just as I thought bare metal and surface rust

 

[B67FSTB]

Why not welding the rear Valance in place ??

I would do it if I did it again.

 

[Anonymous]

Looks like your just about over the hump. It gets to be a little more fun after the paint is on. Great job!

 

[GPR]

Why not welding the rear Valance in place ??

I would do it if I did it again.

I did it on my car after epoxy priming everything first but the owner of this car wants it to look original.

 

[GPR]

We now have a new helper in the shop and he was busy sanding down to bare metal

I sprayed two coats of SPI black epoxy yesterday

 

[GPR]

Block sanded the hood and doors

Sprayed one coat of SPI black epoxy to seal than sprayed 2 coats of Slick Sand Polyester primer