kb3
Well-Known Member
I am not a huge fan of floor mounted auto shifters, but to each his own! My Bronco will retain the column shifter, yes it will have a transfer case shifter(s) on the floor.
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1952 F1: The Garage Roommate
- Thread starter Horseplay
- Start date
What I'm thinking of doing is basically a engine mid-plate but one that is not rigidly mounted to the chassis. It's common in high horsepower drag cars to use engine mounting plates in both the front and back (mid-point) of engines. Talking about cars that make thousands of horsepower. I can't see an issue with my plan in terms of introducing torque problems at the trans. It's all firmly bolted together as a single unit that has no place to twist or flex other than the designed "give" in the rubber mounting points.
Well, first off it will not be floor mounted. It would be trans mounted. Secondly, it will come up through another custom built console which will give the illusion of a raised mounting height. Third, it will serve the purpose of looking like an old manual gearbox to keep up with the theme of the truck which is modernized old school. And lastly, it's not your truck...so shut up!
Besides, I am starting to walk back the auto thoughts. Dumping another $4K into this one is not getting me real excited.
kb3
Well-Known Member
Hey you are the one on here soliciting opinions! Remember, advice is only worth what you paid for it. I guess I should have clarified that I don't like floor mounted shifters, transmission mounted shifters or center consoles in pickup trucks. It makes the interior seem so much smaller, which is really an issue in a little old F1 cab. Now if it was a bigger, more luxurious cab like a 56 F100, then maybe I could be swayed. Probably not!Well, first off it will not be floor mounted. It would be trans mounted. Secondly, it will come up through another custom built console which will give the illusion of a raised mounting height. Third, it will serve the purpose of looking like an old manual gearbox to keep up with the theme of the truck which is modernized old school. And lastly, it's not your truck...so shut up!
Fortunately for me it will just be myself and all my friends driving around in the truck so I will have plenty of room.
kb3
Well-Known Member
We would be happy to send Mike or
your way if you need some friends!
To be really retro, have a manual shifter on the column: three (or five) on the tree!
Personally, I'd stick with the manual transmission with a floor-mounted shifter. If you go automagic for a cruiser so that the wifey can drive it, then you'll next need to add AC, another $1500 if not more.
Personally, I'd stick with the manual transmission with a floor-mounted shifter. If you go automagic for a cruiser so that the wifey can drive it, then you'll next need to add AC, another $1500 if not more.
Not going to remanufacture a second steering column to add column shift. Got enough to do.
It's funny you mention AC. Originally I cut that from the plans for the simple reason I didn't want that load on the engine but really because it would really kill the visual appeal of the flathead. I am still opposed to an engine driven compressor. However, anyone familiar with electric AC for automotive applications? I am giving it some serious consideration. Not for local cruise nights or tooling about town. That's why we have wing windows. Thinking long haul stuff. Southern retirement, maybe.
kb3
Well-Known Member
I don’t have any knowledge of electrically driven compressors so why don’t you do the legwork and report back to the class so we can all learn! The drag on the engine doesn’t bother me, you can always shut it off if you need to make a quick get away, but I hate the look of the engine mounted compressor.
Been researching but hearing firsthand feedback is always useful. The drag might not bother you but a stock flathead makes less than 100 hp so even an alternator matters. I'm thinking of running dual batteries with the second reserved for an electric AC compressor being recharged by a driveshaft driven second alternator which would introduce much less power loss than an engine driven compressor. Keep the whole AC system separate from the main truck electrical system.
kb3
Well-Known Member
Can you get a big enough driveshaft driven alt to supply all the charging needs? You can split the two batteries/systems with a solenoid so that it charges both but the two systems discharge independently. Had a system in my boat like that. One for the sound system one for the motor and controls
It finally happened. I have been waiting impatiently for almost a year. Had a truck pull up today with a very special delivery. You know I like guessing games, so...???
Grabber70Mach
Well-Known Member
Your new flathead motor
Yeah. Pretty easy, huh.
Anyway, here it is in all its glory. Had to put the blower on to get some measurements to figure out snout length and pulley alignment needs etc. Led to some gratuitous glamour shots!
Anyway, here it is in all its glory. Had to put the blower on to get some measurements to figure out snout length and pulley alignment needs etc. Led to some gratuitous glamour shots!
Mach1 Driver
Well-Known Member
Ain't that purdy!
Been doing a lot this past week whenever I could steal some time to work on the truck. Much of it revolving around some structural changes to the frame to facilitate accommodating my wishes for the transmission mount, brake master cylinder/pedals and center frame crossmember. More on that soon with lots of pics.
Anyone who has ever built a custom ride knows how every little thing seems to tie into each other and therefore to make one thing work you need to know how it will affect all the others. Well, this weeks challenges revolved around driver position. Getting the steering wheel, pedals and shifter all set-up to not only function but located properly for best driver feel. You'll recall I bought a new seat which required me to fabricate a mounting base. I had recorded some measurements off the original seat before selling it off to reference an approximate placement. So I got a bunch of steel and fired up the bandsaw and welder and went to work. In typical fashion, I forgot to take any pics when I was building it but I'll get another chance when I make the necessary alterations. First attempt came out really well but after install and sitting in the truck I've decided on a couple tweaks. Going to drop it a little over an inch and move the seat location forward about the same to gain just a little more space for seat back recline.
Anyway, here's a couple shots of how it looks in the truck.
Anyone who has ever built a custom ride knows how every little thing seems to tie into each other and therefore to make one thing work you need to know how it will affect all the others. Well, this weeks challenges revolved around driver position. Getting the steering wheel, pedals and shifter all set-up to not only function but located properly for best driver feel. You'll recall I bought a new seat which required me to fabricate a mounting base. I had recorded some measurements off the original seat before selling it off to reference an approximate placement. So I got a bunch of steel and fired up the bandsaw and welder and went to work. In typical fashion, I forgot to take any pics when I was building it but I'll get another chance when I make the necessary alterations. First attempt came out really well but after install and sitting in the truck I've decided on a couple tweaks. Going to drop it a little over an inch and move the seat location forward about the same to gain just a little more space for seat back recline.
Anyway, here's a couple shots of how it looks in the truck.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Try to built in some "adjustments" so you can fine tune the seats. Front / rear movement and front and back of the seat high/low .
The seat mounts on "sliders" so there is forward/backward movement capability. I just want to move the mounting holes forward a bit to get that slider range closer to the middle when in my normal driving position. Not sure about building in some up/down adjustment. Not hard to do just pretty involved to make something easily adjustable unless I motorized it with a pair of connected "scissor jacks". Or I suppose a couple linear actuators could do it but then I'd have to make the rear studs mount into some kind of pivot mechanism...Damn it, Bruno! I have enough to do already.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Don't want to be a pain in the A$$ but you only find a good driving position when you drive a long distance in one time.
And sometimes a little adjustment is a whole difference.
It doesn't have to be electrical , just with a bolt with different slots ???
Sorry.
And sometimes a little adjustment is a whole difference.
It doesn't have to be electrical , just with a bolt with different slots ???
Sorry.