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My 67 fastback build

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No the structure that is on top of the wheel house.

Bill
 
okay...
on my buddies 65, we used the door jam to rocker as a guide and clamped everything together before any welding... but I still wouldn't remove the inner wheelwell if I were doing it again
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you're worried about the way the bracing is attached to the wheel house? because it is spot welded to the outer wheel house flange?
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Yes, I was concerned about bracing it up. I know it's just spot welded, but once is cut and the inner wheel well is removed, I was afraid it would move. After looking at it again, I can't see how it would. I'm gonna work on it tomorrow and see where I land lol.

Bill
 
Yes, I was concerned about bracing it up. I know it's just spot welded, but once is cut and the inner wheel well is removed, I was afraid it would move. After looking at it again, I can't see how it would. I'm gonna work on it tomorrow and see where I land lol.

Bill
the door jam area should hold the roof in relation to the floor via being attached at the rocker. Just do one side at a time and it can't flex side to side too much. Is your tail panel still attached?
 
if it is still (basically) attached at the trunk floor/frame rail and the ridge of the quarter panel (top) is still there, you should have enough rigidity to support things without added bracing. Even if things are a bit floppy on the passenger side, don't cut ANYTHING on the drivers side until the inner wheel house is fully replaced and welded on the passenger side. I also recommend not welding the outer until you have the quarter skin in place. Repop stuff is a real pain to get it all to line up right so fit it loose as much as you can and start tacking things slowly with a just a few tack welds and stop and look at everything. Go slow and be prepared to smack it with a hammer in a few places
 
it won't be easy to weld the factory brace on the outer wheelhouse flange with the quarter on but you can get in there a little bit from the interior and the trunk.
 
when we did the 65 we basically didn't have much to work with. The door jam area supported it pretty well
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Thanks Craig. That's exactly what I was thinking is that the door jam and the ridge of the quarter still attached to the tailpanel should provide the rigidity that I need. I'll replace one piece at a time until I get it all.

Bill
 
Progress. Everything is dry fit and I need more parts now, so I guess it's time to quit dragging my feet and go buy the quarters and rear frame rail patches.
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Seems like everything is fitting well even against good advice not to remove the whole inner wheel well. After all the metal I replaced up front, this is going easy enough.

Bill
 
Mustangs To Fear has the fiberglass duck tail (Shelby/Eleanor) that is designed to attach to the metal lid. You may be able to cut into the lid and treat the rust and bone the spoiler on and hide the access point?
 
Replaced part of the rear frame rail.
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Trunk drop off area and trunk floor.
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Got the inner wheel house burned in along with reattaching the inner structure to it.
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All this has been to make way for full quarters. Got the old one out of the way today.
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Treated the inner structure with rust convertor paint. It's alot better than the way the factory rolled this out in bare metal.
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Dry run of the new full quarter.
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Still need to finish the rocker area and need to buy trunk corners as mine aren't worth using. Once I get them taken care of, I can get this side complete and start again on the drivers side.

Bill
 
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