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1967 Build called Electra

The Nu-Relics I have work very well. They use a modern gearmotor found in lots of GM cars. Also new mechanical mechanism. This one approaches it completely differently. Appears to be a rotational cable design. Hard to tell how durable but the cost would indicate, at least to me, concern. Time will tell. At least it doesn't appear to require hacking things up so you can always go back.
 
Horseplay said:
The Nu-Relics I have work very well. They use a modern gearmotor found in lots of GM cars. Also new mechanical mechanism. This one approaches it completely differently. Appears to be a rotational cable design. Hard to tell how durable but the cost would indicate, at least to me, concern. Time will tell. At least it doesn't appear to require hacking things up so you can always go back.
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that was my thought...put them in and try them, if they don't work, no big deal. What are you guys using to transfer power and controls from the chassis to the door?
 
We're kinda hijacking this thread but if you go to my build thread I'm sure I wrote about what I used and did. How you route the wires and what you protect them with is rather important. You could use spring loaded contact points but that limits operation to when the doors are closed. Wiring for power windows and door locks requires quite a few wires to be run.
I've built a very custom center console to house, among other things, the window switches. There's not a lot of ways to put them on the door that look good short of a custom door panel. other wise they just look like an after-thought. Some guys use lever switches where the old crank would be but this new designs kills that path.
 
Its not too hard to roll mine up atleast i dont feel like it is...A lil lithium grease is always worth a shot in the rails
 
JRANGER said:
Its not too hard to roll mine up atleast i dont feel like it is...A lil lithium grease is always worth a shot in the rails
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There are so many wear points that allow the mechanics to get out of alignment and real issues develop. Grease doesn't hurt but can't overcome a lot. New linkage and parts is the best solution but that can get pricey too. Plus, some of the repops aren't the best as well.
 
New rear lines are all installed....

The Good: Fluid gets to the rear now and she moves and stops (Not sure how well and my drive way goes down hill)

The Bad: Still couldn't get pass side rear to bleed......All others did

So my rear pass side is prob bad but it doesn't leak. Its just me here today so all i could do was put a few blocks a 5 feet behind the tires and roll in R and stop and go forward and stop...Thats about as brave as ive got for now.....Im sure it needs bled more but i ran out of fluid and im not sure how well she will stop at higher speed....Pedal still seems a bit soft
 
Over the weekend i got a lot more done and even got to drive her some.

Got new bumper brackets installed. Replaced the 68 Strut Rod on the drivers side with a new 67 rod. Calibrated the Speedo and Got the brakes tuned in.

So in driving i have horrible bump steer which im pretty sure an alignment will fix but man it was scary at times. I am going to take it next week to get this done. From what im told is the local Gateway Tire here in Columbia should be able to set me up.

Only thing i ran into was it did get over 220 on the temp which i was doing a lot of stop and go so it may not be a issue but def something ill be watching
 
bump steer could definitely come form alignment if you have changed parts.

On the temp, do you have an underdrive pulley system? That slows the water pump down. Especially at engine idle speed. Do you have a shroud? They really do help pull air thru the rad, again especially at low engine speeds when not moving. Those two things are pretty important. Also, what pressure rad cap? The higher you can go the better (like 16psi), however the older original type rad cannot handle too much pressure. Usually around 13psi before they start blowing out the seams. And of course you want to make sure there is no air in the system. Also what blend of antifreeze? 50/50 is typical but antifreeze is not a good coolant. It just doesn't freeze. Water is a better coolant so in summer you can run a higher ratio of water for better cooling.
I struggled with a hot engine in traffic with my 67, it would run fine (about 180) on the highway but would climb as high as 240 in traffic on near 100 degree days. I wasn't running a shroud and I had underdrive pulleys and a 13psi cap. I incrementally changed all of this (except I still have underdrive pulleys) including running 15% antifreeze and water wetter. It made a big difference. I can sit in 100 degree weather in traffic sitting still and it won't over heat now. I did drop it in neutral to bring idle speed up when sitting but since I went to a 2400 stall speed on the TC I don't have to do that anymore. When I swap in the 5 speed I am also changing my waterpump pulley and putting on an Edelbrock high flow aluminum water pump.
Anyway, hope some of this info helps
 
Yeah, The allignment is way off and its all new so im sure it is causing it. Plus Shelby drop was added.

Thanks for the information on cooling. I am currently running 50/50 blend and had this issue previously.
I fixed it by replacing the thermostat, putting in new coolant, and ridding it of air but it has also been a good year or more since she been run for any consistent time so it may be time for a flush of the stock radiator which im considering changing out as well for newer system since i dont know how long it will last given the age and god knows whats been done in the past. Ill also add some more water to the blend for the summer.

I did add a shroud a few years ago but ill have to look at my pulley system. It also is prob the stock i6 radiator so im not sure how that factors in..If i remember correctly its 22" one
 
if it's the I6 radiator, that is probably not helping. The stock small block radiator was borderline in my opinion.
I had a four core big block radiator for many years in my 67 but a year or two ago I went with a three row aluminum. Mostly so I could raise the pressure. I always had coolant spitting out of the copper/brass radiator even with only 13psi cap. I can now run 16 with no issues.
 
I did some looking and just idling and revving it started to warm up. Fan was running good,hoses all hot, but im not sure the radiator was doing very good. I even tested the heater ans it worked great which means it should have a good water pump. So i ordered a 3 row aluminum tanks. Its still a small tank 22" but i can re use my shroud on it. Plus the inside of the stocker looked pretty rough
 
Well today i took it to get aligned and had my wheels put on.

I asked for the following:
These specifications are in order of importance.

1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in

They could not get positive caster with my car. I do believe i have a 1" drop spring with the Shelby drop but have to verify.

This is what I was told and given:
LF CROSS RF
Camber -.4 -.4 .0
Caster 0 .2 .1
Toe .04 .08 .04


This is what they said:
1) Cannot adj caster any further positive on L/F so set R/F to match
2) Camber at Maximum Position
3) L/F wheel sits 1" forward over R/F

Now the car drives a million times better then when i took it in and im happy with the job they did but my question is this:

Why cant they get Positive caster on it? Is something wrong?
And my biggest concern..Why in the F does my L/F sit and if forward? Is that normal?
 

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Do the bozos doing the alignment know that you have to add shims to the UCA's to gain caster? On one of AZPete's car, we couldn't get positive caster and had to replace the bolts on the UCA to longer ones so that we could gain caster. We then aligned it as best as we could and took the car to an old-timer's shop who stated we nailed the alignment.

Even if you went to the later form of alignment using offset bracketry, you can still add shims to the UCA bolts.
 
I dont know but generally speaking i understand you dont di that on 67 up but i did read unless you do a shelby drop and have 1" drop springs
 
Other then the positive caster i think its good. It actually drives pretty damn good in comparison to anything ive had it do. Also i measured from the rear of the fender to the tire and its 4" on each side...So im guessing my fenders are weird

Installed my radiator today and it def seems like it staying cooler. It got up to 190 maybe 200 at one point but that was sitting in the garage and as soon as i hit the street back to 180

Ignore my zip tie, it wasnt sitting flush in the center causing the fan to rub so that was my solution13950570_10157252765900521_233169766_o.jpg 13987733_10157252765815521_1155607652_o.jpg
 
Well i found a nice bin out if a 62 full size ford glovebox that did the trick for the box. Made a few adjustments and now i just need to get my ebrake so i can adjust it to fit. I also ordered all the fiberglass to cover the box in. So hopefully i get started on that soon.

Added a relay harness and new light switch as well...Still, when idling there is still a bit of dimming...Makes me wonder about my alt
 

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