• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Stipe how to

One week until paint, so I will be doing the grabber blue base and black stripes and hood like the old trans am. I want to make sure i am on the right page in that i want to lay down the stripe (black color) first then tape that area off and lay down the base. How long is good enough to put down the green 3m tape, then take all the tape off and clear over it all? I will be using 3 coats of all PPG and taking pics the whole time. So is this the right process and how long til i lay down the stripes?
 
I'd do a test card to be absolutely sure. I've heard that even if you get a little etch from the tape that the clear will make it go away but have never witness this in person.

Lots of variables. Using wet on wet sealer? Heated booth? Stripes going to be glossy or flat?

I have not sprayed PPG for a while but I think the window before the base "closes" is 8 hours. Are you going to use fine line tape on your edges?
 
Your painter should know this or at least him can get info from the paint supplier.
Remark:
When putting on the this blue masking tape , be sure you don't stretch it to long as it will crimp later on , seeing tape come loose in the little corners when you later on see some overspray in these corners.
First degrease every thing thoroughly.
Mask it of and use a plastic flat tool to slide/push the edge of the tape against the paint.
The paint tends to creep under the masking tape when not fully pushed aginst the paint.
So , be precise in the corner and check that the blue masking tape is sticked thoroughly against the paint/body.
( sorry for the bad explaination but I want you to have a very nice paintjob on your car.Good luck and take your time at the paint booth !! )
 
"Sluggo" said:
I'd do a test card to be absolutely sure. I've heard that even if you get a little etch from the tape that the clear will make it go away but have never witness this in person.

Lots of variables. Using wet on wet sealer? Heated booth? Stripes going to be glossy or flat?

I have not sprayed PPG for a while but I think the window before the base "closes" is 8 hours. Are you going to use fine line tape on your edges?

I will use a fender to test on before, but i have seen some paint the stripe and clear then sand off the clear. The booth wont be heated it will be hand made and about 85 degrees that day, and the stripes will be more glossy.
 
"B67FSTB" said:
Your painter should know this or at least him can get info from the paint supplier.
Remark:
When putting on the this blue masking tape , be sure you don't stretch it to long as it will crimp later on , seeing tape come loose in the little corners when you later on see some overspray in these corners.
First degrease every thing thoroughly.
Mask it of and use a plastic flat tool to slide/push the edge of the tape against the paint.
The paint tends to creep under the masking tape when not fully pushed aginst the paint.
So , be precise in the corner and check that the blue masking tape is sticked thoroughly against the paint/body.
( sorry for the bad explaination but I want you to have a very nice paintjob on your car.Good luck and take your time at the paint booth !! )

What the automotive paint shop told me that the green 3m is the best, but should i use blue for the edges? I have heard of the paint creeping under the tape so i love the slide technique. As far as the painter my future father in law is painting it and has done a few very nice paint jobs, but never stripes so we wanted to know how to get the best results possible. Thanks Again!
 
Green tape will not give you as fine of an edge as the fine line will. I use the blue 3M stuff and then green over top with paper at least 12 inches from the stripe edge. This is to keep the plastic from getting in your paint.

If your stripes are going to be glossy, I'd paint the main color first, let it flash out really well, lay out your stripes and spray them, then clear everything at one time. You'll be much happier with the outcome and the stripe edges will be buried.
 
with the deltron bases, you shouldn't have any trouble as long as you get everything clearcoated within 48 hrs. lay the blue down first, then the black stripes. the black will cover the blue in less coats than it will take to cover black with blue. use the 1/4" blue fineline to lay out the stripes if posible. the blue has been dicontinued in favor of the "improved" purple, but i've had some trouble with the purple. the new purple is supposed to have a better adhesion rate, which it does, but be careful peeling it up as it will pull the basecoat off if you aren't careful, almost too sticky!

another trick: after you spray the black for the stripes & unmask, if you want to get rid of the sharp edge you feel on the black where the paint met the tape, lightly hit it with a little 1200 colorsanding paper. don't wet it like you are colorsanding, lightly hit it DRY. if you do this correctly, you won't feel any edges after you clearcoat. if you have any other questions, shoot me a p.m. or give me a call. i shoot PPG more than anything else, so can talk you thru anything you might have concerns about.
 
"Sluggo" said:
Green tape will not give you as fine of an edge as the fine line will. I use the blue 3M stuff and then green over top with paper at least 12 inches from the stripe edge. This is to keep the plastic from getting in your paint.

If your stripes are going to be glossy, I'd paint the main color first, let it flash out really well, lay out your stripes and spray them, then clear everything at one time. You'll be much happier with the outcome and the stripe edges will be buried.
"SELLERSRODSHOP" said:
with the deltron bases, you shouldn't have any trouble as long as you get everything clearcoated within 48 hrs. lay the blue down first, then the black stripes. the black will cover the blue in less coats than it will take to cover black with blue. use the 1/4" blue fineline to lay out the stripes if posible. the blue has been dicontinued in favor of the "improved" purple, but i've had some trouble with the purple. the new purple is supposed to have a better adhesion rate, which it does, but be careful peeling it up as it will pull the basecoat off if you aren't careful, almost too sticky!

another trick: after you spray the black for the stripes & unmask, if you want to get rid of the sharp edge you feel on the black where the paint met the tape, lightly hit it with a little 1200 colorsanding paper. don't wet it like you are colorsanding, lightly hit it DRY. if you do this correctly, you won't feel any edges after you clearcoat. if you have any other questions, shoot me a p.m. or give me a call. i shoot PPG more than anything else, so can talk you thru anything you might have concerns about.

Here you have the best advice.
Remenber first blue then black.
Take your time peeling of the tape ( pull it off 180
 
Thanks you guys are the best! I will do blue first then black and will end up sanding the edges. I am using the decklid with the ducktail any suggestions on how make it look best, I hear that sharp radius that it has can be difficult. Thanks!
 
"norcal67coupe" said:
Thanks you guys are the best! I will do blue first then black and will end up sanding the edges. I am using the decklid with the ducktail any suggestions on how make it look best, I hear that sharp radius that it has can be difficult. Thanks!

The thinner the tape the tighter you can turn it. If you use a thin tape, don't do the layer deal with the green tape. try to get it edged in one piece the trim it away.

Steve knows what I'm trying to say and probably can explain it better.
 
"Sluggo" said:
The thinner the tape the tighter you can turn it. If you use a thin tape, don't do the layer deal with the green tape. try to get it edged in one piece the trim it away.

Steve knows what I'm trying to say and probably can explain it better.

Ok well the main stripe will be 20" wide then a 1" gap then the 2" stripe. I picked up the 1/4" purple tape from the autopaint store today, are you saying i should only back that up with a 3/4" tape and try to get the paper to only stick to the 1/4" purple tape for the rest, to keep down on the tape usage?
 
are you doing a stripe layout similar to the 70 mach1 that will run off the edges of the hood/trunk?

1970-mach-1-mustang.jpg
 
"SELLERSRODSHOP" said:
are you doing a stripe layout similar to the 70 mach1 that will run off the edges of the hood/trunk?

1970-mach-1-mustang.jpg

Yes thats it, but only on the roof back. The hood and top of fenders will be black,but glossier than those on the mach.
 
"norcal67coupe" said:
Ok well the main stripe will be 20" wide then a 1" gap then the 2" stripe. I picked up the 1/4" purple tape from the autopaint store today, are you saying i should only back that up with a 3/4" tape and try to get the paper to only stick to the 1/4" purple tape for the rest, to keep down on the tape usage?

No. Use 3/4 on top of the fine line then paper with 3/4 tape with a 3/8 reveal.

On tight corners some people will try to layer straight pieces of tape over top of the fine line in order to mask the rounded area not to be painted. This will multiply the opportunity for the paint to bleed under the tape.
The fewer seams the better.

On the 1 inch gap, using 1/4 fine line you'll have 1/2 inch of empty space to cover with tape. 3/4 inch tape would obviously be the way to go.
 
Back
Top