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My Adjustable Strut Rods...

65-408

Member
Here is my version, not my idea, I stole this from somewhere, just don't remember where I saw it. Anyways, let me know if you see any critical flaws:

Parts list:
(2) rod ends, summit SUM-MAXL 10T, $14 each
(2) 5/8-18 x 6L turnbuckles, Midwest Control HBT10-6.00, $15 each (shipped)
(2) Grade 8, 5/8 x 4�L Bolts with nylon lock nuts

Cut off the original:

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Clean up the ends & turn them down to .625� on my little Southbend:

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Thread them with a 5/8-18 die:

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Put them together:

DSCN1288.jpg


Drill out the strut rod bracket, helps that it is not on the car:

DSCN1297.jpg


Test fit:

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Machine up some spacers:

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Weld in the spacers and add some welds to the bracket:

DSCN1302.jpg


Paint:

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Good idea. Front bolt has to be a strong one although the weld in bushings reinforce the bolt .Looks good!
 
Nice! I'm working on my set right now, but I'm doing the Daze Style bolt-in-bracket style, using the clevises. I don't have very good metal working tools, but I've done a lot of custom cutting and grinding and am getting a LITTLE better at it. I'll be posting pictures when I'm done.

I don't know that it matters, but I followed Daze's recommendation against Nylon insert Lock nuts, and am using all-metal lock nuts. Like I say, no clue if it matters a hill or beans or not.

I'll look forward to hearing how the car drives once back on the road!

Steve
 
"AtlantaSteve" said:
I don't know that it matters, but I followed Daze's recommendation against Nylon insert Lock nuts, and am using all-metal lock nuts.

something to think about, thanks for pointing it out...
 
mmmm Tool porn. Wish that I still had access to a machine shop. I worked for my uncles at their shop when I was in college. I learned a lot there. But one uncle is gone, and the other is retired and living up in NorCal, and the shop was sold.
The Adjustable Struts look great. :coo fd
 
The drill press was free, and the lathe I looked for about 6 months for, finally found that one on craigslist, about a mile from my work, covered in 1/2" of dust, stole it for $600, it is a southbend heavy 10", easily worth double that... the guy even delivered it to my house on his flat bed...
 
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Dang, $600 for a good, non-worn South Bend is great! Especially with free delivery!

Nice work. Keep an eye on those rod ends. Cheap rod ends will wear quickly and start to rattle around.
 
"Shaun" said:
Dang, $600 for a good, non-worn South Bend is great! Especially with free delivery!

Nice work. Keep an eye on those rod ends. Cheap rod ends will wear quickly and start to rattle around.

the rod ends are from summit, and are ptfe lined? I am definately open to suggestions for better alternatives, especially from you or John...
 
Looks good, I probably wouldn't have used 5/8" hardware, but damn, that's some craftsmanship! I'm jealous of the southbend. :rofl

The shoulder where it transitions to 5/8" has always given me the creeps; I've had a machinist suggest that it would be good to put in a chamfer there to keep it from snapping there. Sounds reasonable to me, but I never could hack it as an engineering student, so I'm not exactly an authority. :rofl
 
"gotstang" said:
The shoulder where it transitions to 5/8" has always given me the creeps; I've had a machinist suggest that it would be good to put in a chamfer there to keep it from snapping there.
A radius would be better/stronger
 
"65-408" said:
the rod ends are from summit, and are ptfe lined? I am definately open to suggestions for better alternatives, especially from you or John...

Just keep an eye on them. Those cheaper bearings will probably start to get loose and rattle sooner than a quality bearing of tougher material. Next time look for something in the $30-$40+ range each made from chromoloy.
 
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