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Mini-tubbing a 65

Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
Donator
The more I thought about it the more I realized I wanted/need more tire for this car. Does anyone know just how much real tire room can be gained by doing the basic wheel well "separate, move in and gap-fill" technique without changing anything to do with leaf spring position? What width tire/rim can be tucked up after without any quarter modding?

Not looking to move frame rails just gaining an inch or more if possible. Should I be looking at 4-link set-ups? Will that give me a bit more space than leafs in stock location after the mini-tubs? Anyone using the Heidt's 4-link listening?

Sitting at my desk here at work and it is driving me crazy! I have so many parts laying about ready to go but nothing can happen in earnest until I get all this chassis stuff done. Hoping to hear from someone who has been here before.

Thanks,

Terry
 
285? 295? 17" wheel. Looking to get as wide a contact patch as possible, really. Car will be street driven but also run down the quarter regularly so traction is the main consideration.
 
With stock wheelwells and the fender lip not rolled..... 275/45/17 is about the largest/widest tire you're ever going to fit into a 65-66 car. With the fender lips un-rolled even this may be too big of a tire as the interference point is the front lower quadrant of the inner wheelwell.

Coupe or 2+2? If you move the inner fenderwells inward to the point that the inner fender is now flush with the frame rail..... ~1"..... it may effect the fitment of the rear seat/interior panels. How much modification are you willing to do to get a larger rear tire?

I'm running a 4Link on my '66. My only obstruction is the inner wheelwell.

How much HP are you guesstimating that will require anything larger than a 10.5 slick at the track?

The only other thing I'd like to mention is to be careful about getting larger slicks on a unibody car. Sub-frame connectors aren't going to cut it if you manage to fit big sticky tires and high HP/TQ. To keep the car from twisting you'll have to install an 8 pt. or even larger cage system.

One thing ALWAYS leads into another.
 
Dave,

I'm intending to pull the inner wheelhouse flush to the rail. I'm also prepared to "square-out" the troublesome lower part of the front inner wheelhouse. What I don't recall (and can't see until I get off work) is if the stock leaf spring will allow me to use the space I am freeing up with all this modification. Seems to me that I could use most of it without spring interference.

Rear seat not going back into this one so that is not a concern.

I agree completely about the need for a cage. I've just finished up fitting a six point arrangement. Triangulated reinforcements of the torque boxes/cowl/A-pillar/rockers is next. I have some design ideas for the next two connection points of the cage but they are somewhat dependent upon the way I go with the rear suspension.

Engine plans are not yet complete but will be in neighborhood of 500 rwhp for sure. I've got a thing for twin-screws, you see.
 
What I don't recall (and can't see until I get off work) is if the stock leaf spring will allow me to use the space I am freeing up with all this modification. Seems to me that I could use most of it without spring interference.


You're not thinking clearly..... the leaf spring mounts to the frame rail. They're almost exactly on the same vertical plane. Most all of the clearance created from relocating the inner fenderwells inward will be usable space.
 
Not thinking clearly is one of my better traits! Actually that is how I was picturing it but had convinced myself I was forgetting something that would make a difference.
So basically, if I am willing to do the mods listed I could expect to gain an 1" plus. Probably closer to 2" than 1", right? If so, that would give me the room I need for a 9" wheel.

Forgot to answer one of your earlier questions. It's a 2+2.

As an aside, I'll probably (not prolly!)be selling off the rear seat and complete fold-down assembly soon. Seat upholstery (red) is terrific. Fold down carpet is a bit dirty/faded and the chrome has the usual scratches and pitting. I know the value is "what someone is willing to pay for it", but what is a ball park value? Seems to me this might hold some good cash potential.
 
I sold my complete rear fold-down seat 2 years ago to a fellow Mustanger in need and gave him a bargain basement price of $250 for the whole set-up. You should be able get >$400 for it rather easily.

Yes, in some areas it will be close to a 2" gain. The 67-68 cars with the same modification are fitting 11" wheels and 315 to 335 series tires.
 
I had a while back but had forgotten about it as tubbing wasn't in my plan at the time. Thanks for the link. That is a lot of rubber stuffed into that little space.
 
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