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Hard nut to remove?

J

JBauer4363

Member
Working on the underside of my car removing undercoating. Looking at this plate bolted to the body, (Im thinking its the seat belt anchor?) is pretty covered on one side. Is it easy to take off or is it more trouble than its worth?

377783087.jpg


The othe side is not so bad:

377783088.jpg


I dont want to get into a big mess trying to take it off but, it would be easier to clean that area with it out. The weird thing is the undercoating seems to scrape right off so far.

377783089.jpg


but Im not sure that will continue as I get farther along.

Opinions? Try to remove the plate or pass?

JBauer4363
 
Just pass, if its just scraping off, hit it with a wire brush, or maybe a wire wheel and move along. Just my .02 :craz
 
Duh... Im sure its the same on a 70. I guess I wasnt thinking. The seat belt hold down bolt screws into the plate. I can just remove the bolt. :craz

Thanks

JBauer4363
 
I know of some wives that can remove nuts harder than that...
 
Wire brauch the hell out of it on the backside.
Soot some penetrating oil on it and wait a day. Tap it. more oil. tap it harder and try removing the bolt.

It is the seatbelt bolt, right?
 
"KBMWRS" said:
Wire brauch the hell out of it on the backside.
Soot some penetrating oil on it and wait a day. Tap it. more oil. tap it harder and try removing the bolt.

It is the seatbelt bolt, right?
Click to expand...

He's talkin about the nut that's welded to floor. :craz
 
Looking at those pics, it looks like those round plates might be fixed to the sheetmetal so you might not have a choice in removing them. If you are only attempting to clean the bottom side without disconnecting the brakeline, etc, sounds like just a bunch of hours ahead of you.
 
Ya I know that plate is fixed I just musta been smelling too much thinner when I asked that question :craz

Im planning on removing the rearend with the springs and driveshaft so I can get to the underneath. Ive lowered the rearend and removed the drive shaft before but Ive never taken both out from under the car before. Seems like if I just unhook the brake line, emerg. brake cables and unbolt the springs it should come right out right? Anything I need to watch for?

Also when I wire wheel off the undercoating and get to the bare metal what should I do to keep that section from flash rusting until the next time I start? Its gonna be a weekend thing and it will sit for a week at a time.

This only took a few minutes:

377881426.jpg


Thanks for the help.

JBauer4363
 
I assume you are first removing the driveline. Once it's out you then attack the rear end. Yes about disconnecting the rubber line from the hardline that is attached to the car. Yes regarding the emergency cables from the rear brakes.

Now you jack up the back end and place floor jacks under the car right in front or next to where the front of the rear leaf springs attach to the car.

Now, I normally put a floor jack under the rear end and jack it up a little ways, I would then start unloosening the big U bolt nuts just a little to attempt in creating a gap between the rear end housing and the leaf springs. You might need to raise or lower the rear end in order to relieve the pressure between these items in order to achieve the gap. Once you have created a gap you now know that there is no more tension on the leafs.

What I normally do now is to disconnect the rear leaf bolts from the shackles and drop the back end of the leafs down to the ground. Keep in mind that now 100% of the rear end weight is now resting on your floor jack to be careful in not to jar it around too much. Once the back ends of the leafs are dropped, you can simply roll the rear end out.

Keep in mind that the front of the leafs are still attached to the car. Don't know if you were planning to remove them completely or just let them hang.
 
"cmayna" said:
Now, I normally put a floor jack under the rear end and jack it up a little ways
Click to expand...

That will put tension on the springs and create a potentially dangerous situation when you start loosening the u-bolts. The tension is off of the leaf springs when they are hanging. Put the jack under the pumpkin for support only, but do not raise the rear.
 
When I removed the rear end on Midlife, I simply placed the car on the hoist with tension slightly reduced on the rear shackles. I then removed the rear shackle pins, allowing the weight of the rear end to be fully taken up by the tires. I then raised the car up some more and removed the u-bolts that affixed the rear end to the springs. Having removed the emergency brake cables, i then rolled the rear end assembly out from under the car and put off to the side. I then raised the car some more and tackled the front eye bolts of the springs. Installation was basically the reverse of all this.

Yeah, I know...most of you don't have a lift. But you should really consider getting one, as it is probably the most useful tool in my garage, according to my back. Ask Pete about whether it is worthwhile!
 
"Midlife" said:
Having removed the emergency brake cables, i then rolled the rear end assembly out from under the car and put off to the side.
Click to expand...

Thats what Im wanting to do, but after giving it a quick look do I have to completely dissasemble the rear brakes to get those cables removed? Ugh! Is there an easier way to unhook them?

Thanks
JBauer4363
 
Either remove the drums to get that end off or disconnect the cable linkage near the tranny and the body clamps and it will come out with the rear end.
 
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