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Fordrule's 64 falcon build

F

fordrule

Member
Some of you know that I purchased craigs drag falcon to build a rat rodded tourer...basically build and practice on the falcon and the masterpiece will be my beloved jo-jo..

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tomorrow is climbing into the engine bay and put her on jacks...hopefully pull fenders without all the bolts rusted to the nuts and maybe even pull, master cylinder, heater assy..
 
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Looks like you're rockin' and rollin' Joey, pics #1,4,5 didn't show for me even on refresh.
Jon
 
I went to a swap meet in Lebanon TN today (kinda last minute decision), it was lame. Not much there but I was surprised to see a guy with Falcon parts! They were pretty much all 63 or earlier but still... I looked to see if he had any side trim. No. Had a "Sprint" steering wheel. $100!!!
anyway, core support looks good.
I can't see all the pics either.
 
"tarafied1" said:
I went to a swap meet in Lebanon TN today (kinda last minute decision), it was lame. Not much there but I was surprised to see a guy with Falcon parts! They were pretty much all 63 or earlier but still... I looked to see if he had any side trim. No. Had a "Sprint" steering wheel. $100!!!
anyway, core support looks good.
I can't see all the pics either.
Click to expand...

that was probably the same guy joey went to see last weekend in lebanon. he stopped by here on his way home too. :shrug
 
here is some more progress from the weekend. stripped the hood and both fenders and started to strip the undercoating and paint from the fenderwells. had to drill off two bolt heads. ones not going to be to hard to replace but the nutplate in the cowl is going to be a pain to replace. I am going to need to look at renting a media blaster and get it all done rather quickly
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even my girlfriend was out there helping me.
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this was an odd mod that I discovered...probably to adjust the clutch
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some of the bad of the floor
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here is some progress today...hopefully finish up the core support and prep ir for paint. I need to take some pics of the rust damage so i can get some advice on how to attack it....
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thanks jon :censored ..

wow i hate sandblasting and filtering the media ...uggg...but I am almost at the point to air off and pressure wash the front end and get all the media and acetone to prep to primer. then spray the jet black. I am going to look at a flat clear also..and get new seam sealant before all of that. and figure out what undercoating to spray in the fenderwells. there is some cancer on the cowl and the torque box on the driver side. I'll take pics of it tomorrow and see what togo from here to fix it.
 
Nice job on the engine compartment Joey. I can understand why you hated blasting. It's a slow and tedious job. It's even slower when you have to use a siphon type blaster! You have much patience!!! :thu
 
steve turned me onto a epoxy primer that I am looking at getting. I am thinking I will need to be blasting off that primer that I had laid on the core support and passenger fenderwell to lay all of that epoxy primer....
 
Now would be a good time to seam weld up the engine bay and add a gusset to the sway bar mount. They break off with a strong sway bar. I put a roll bar gusset just off center of the sway bar mount, one on either side of that hole that has the rubber plug in it. The sway bar mount gets seam welded too on my cars.


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I could be wrong, but I think what Opentracker is saying is to add two of the gussets he showed to your swaybar mount. Place them vertically on either side of the rubber plug, between the bolts shown. It will give a more direct load path to the frame rail. right now the load has to go through the rubber mount, then to then out past the bolts to bent ends attached to the frame rail. Being so far apart the mount can flex and crack.

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"stangg" said:
I could be wrong, but I think what Opentracker is saying is to add two of the gussets he showed to your swaybar mount. Place them vertically on either side of the rubber plug, between the bolts shown. It will give a more direct load path to the frame rail. right now the load has to go through the rubber mount, then to then out past the bolts to bent ends attached to the frame rail. Being so far apart the mount can flex and crack.

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Click to expand...

Exactly right. The stock bracket will crack and break with a larger sway bar and hard driving. Taking the load path direct to the frame helps a lot.
 
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Great work on that car Joey. I'm surprised it had that much rust in the floor pans.

John, do you add gussets to Mustangs also?

Bill
 
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