Fluid Leak Issues

[janschutz]

While I was under my mustang working on the new suspension pieces, I was noticing a lot of fluid leaks. I had so question for this great body of knowledge. The undercarriage was totally cleaned before the HRPT last May. So all the fluid traces are since
May 2013. taking care of these leaks will be my next project on this mustang.

A lot of oil at the back of the engine. Is this a real mail seal? Can this be fixed with the engine in?

Front and passenger side of oil pan, front seal?) The top transmission line is sure oily from unknown source.

Driver side of intake manifold. Gas leak?

Passenger side of intake manifold just looks like road grime.

From passenger side of engine was real oily, I wiped some of the oil off the valve cover already.

Oil from back of engine, unknown location, need to remove air cleaner assembly to see better.

Any suggestions on how to handle this the best? Although I built this engine in 2006 (my first on only build) I feel I am still a novice at these engines.

 

[AzPete]

Start from the top as the rear main leak could be a valve cover running down the back of the engine. The rear main can be replaced in the car with tranny in IF it has the two piece rear main seal.

I would clean it all real good and watch for leaks every time you drive it.....before and after. Baby powder can be spread to use as a tracer if you cannot locate the point of origin.

 

[jmlay]

John,

Take a good look at the dipstick & tube. If your PCV is blocked or not big enough it may be pushing oil out the dipstick & blowing back on the engine. Next I would look at the valve covers. You may need to clean it up & keep a close eye on it to find the source.

 

[Midlife]

All good replies. I chased leaks for a half-year, determining most were due to valve cover bolts untorqueing and a bad rear mail seal. Pete helped me replace that seal, and it was not easy. Oil pan seal needed to be replaced as well, as I over-tightened it. I went with a one piece and it was a dream compared to the original design.

Start by wiping everything down good, and re-torque the valve covers. As stated, start from the top and work downwards.

 

[stangg]

I just went through this last year with leaks on my engine... Here's a sure fire way to locate each and every visible one of them in less than 30 minutes.

Get a spray bottle and fill it with water and a little bit of dish soap.
Tape off the valve cover openings (PCV, Oil fill) with masking tape. Plug up the PCV port on the back of the engine block.

Remove your oil dipstick and slip a piece of rubber hose over the oil dipstick tube, attach the other end of the hose to and "air blower".
http://www.harborfreight.com/safety-tip ... 68263.html

Depending on your blowers nozzle, you might need to tape the hose to the blower so it doesn't come off. Set your air compressor's regulator to 10-15# of air pressure and connect the blow gun to your compressor hose.

Spray you engine down with the soapy water and then use the blow gun to push some air into the crank case... You'll hear a little air escape through the rings and subsequently through the carb and exhaust, but even the little bit of air pressure being induced will escape through the same areas oil is coming from and you'll easily see soapy air bubbles forming where these minute traces of air is coming through.

I've got to do it again in the coming weeks since I still have a some traces of oil coming from the back of my engine. I think it may be rear main seal, but can't see it with the bell housing on. The last time I did this, the majority of the leak was coming from poor valve cover to head sealing.

 

[janschutz]

Thanks for all the replies. Looks like I need a couple days to do a good cleaning. I will also check the PVC Valve and the valve cover bolts. Shouldn't they be at 25 ft lbs?

 

[Midlife]

Valve covers are typically 7-9 ft-pounds.

 

[AzPete]

If the valve covers(not your aluminum type) and oil pan bolts have been over tightened, the metal(tin) may be deformed and not allowing a good seal. Always check the bolt hole lip for flatness when replacing a gasket.....then torque properly.

 

[Teebone]

I would take a good hard look at the intake, they are famous for leaking especially in the front and then making a mess all over. I never use the front and back gaskets that come with the gasket kit, I just use a bead of silicone front and back.

 

[jmlay]

stangg,

That is a diagnosis method I would not have thought of. Def. thinking outside the box.

 

[Stokes66]

Stangg that's awesome. I'll be trying that on my dad a Chevelle this weekend.


Sent via paper airplane.

 

[janschutz]

Was under the back end to bleed the breaks and saw more leaks.

The rear fill plug is leaking, the washer is split.

Looks like a read wheel cylinder is leaking.