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Collected car today from the shop ... fun never stops

J

JonnybravoM3

Member
Woopdeedoo..

Gonna see if I can diagnose at home. I'm getting tired honestly from all the fun I've been having
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You can richen it up a bit and likely bring that temp down. I bet the shop leaned it out some to try and help the gas smell you complained about.
 
Doubt it, they would have had to do so via the FiTech touch screen no?

Only thing they would have changed on the fiTech touchscreen with my new set up is the pulse width modulation for the intank pump to 100.

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Last time i drove the car, it ran perfectly with the exception to the external pump starvation issues.... So far, this is the work that I've done to her... I've also upgraded the radiator (but it's got the clutch fan still).. this job is not on this list.

Since I last drove the car, I did all the work on the list starting halfway down at the distributer conversion....
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Your actual AFR is to the lean side. You should also check your timing. You might be too advanced which can also cause it to run hotter. I guess I should ask what temp it was running at before this latest issue.
 
Horseplay said:
Your actual AFR is to the lean side. You should also check your timing. You might be too advanced which can also cause it to run hotter. I guess I should ask what temp it was running at before this latest issue.
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This is from the last time I drove the car before the additional work. This was a cold start though after a few minutes.

So it's strange today how it panned out...i left the shop, drove to work, all good, as I got closer to the office I decided to close the window and turn on my vintage air AC... got to work and parked and noticed the needle leaning towards the H....

Left the office a few hours later, cold start, car started at C.... warmed her up, all the way home, without AC, windows down, got home, temp was slap bang in the center.... went into the house put my stuff, thought to myself let me go back to the car and get a proper reading from the touchscreen... so I started her up again, needle flew all the way to the H.... Then very slowly made its way back down to the center.. during this time, I took the reading from my touchscreen which showed coolant temp at 210F then 206F after a few seconds....i put the AC on after a few minutes of sitting idle and the temp stayed in the center...

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Well, first and foremost running the AC can and likely will make the engine run hotter. More load on it. Also, your gauge temp sensor and your FiTech temp sensor (you'll have two now) are not located in the same place, i'm sure. The original is likely in your intake manifold crossover water port and the new one I will bet is mounted in a new waterneck radiator side of the thermostat. It is very possible they read different values just being different sensors and then in separate places too. I would suggest just monitoring it under different scenarios for a bit and try to make sense of it all.
 
There's something called heat soak. When you turn your engine off, the water temperature goes up without being circulated. It will take some time for the entire engine/water/radiator to cool down. If you go back after 30 min to an hour and start the car, the temperature will read high (due to heat soak) and gradually come down once water starts to circulate.

I concur that running AC will make the engine run a bit hotter, but with a good radiator, water pump, and fan system, the coolant temperature should remain relatively constant between running AC and not.
 
Horseplay said:
Well, first and foremost running the AC can and likely will make the engine run hotter. More load on it. Also, your gauge temp sensor and your FiTech temp sensor (you'll have two now) are not located in the same place, i'm sure. The original is likely in your intake manifold crossover water port and the new one I will bet is mounted in a new waterneck radiator side of the thermostat. It is very possible they read different values just being different sensors and then in separate places too. I would suggest just monitoring it under different scenarios for a bit and try to make sense of it all.
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That makes sense but honestly they both read high figures together... the needle moves towards H as the touchscreen coolant temp surges north of 200 towards 220.... actually, I completely bled the system tonight and looked for leaks and loose connections... after which i refilled top quality coolant, and I still had the same issue...

Thing is, since buying the car, I've installed vintage air AC system, Fi-Tech with Tanks Inc internal pump... I'm on a new but still oem radiator and a clutch fan...

Am i due for an upgrade? Not sure why I never had issues before and only today I started facing issues.... car started spitting out coolant (I may have filled too much) and I did see some smoke, now this was after a very short drive ( with AC off! ) to monitor the temperature and parking on my driveway with the car on but idling...

Should I just invest in an upgraded radiator (B cool) and electric fan? Temp my end tonight is a cool 75F... what happens in summer when it hits 120!



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Upgrading the radiator is never a bad idea. Go aluminum and possibly an electric fan and you will see a difference. The FiTech has a built in electric fan control which is what I used. Best radiator I've seen for our cars is from ECP. It's also one of the lower priced ones but don't let that fool you the quality is top notch. Wide two row cools great.
https://www.speedcooling.com/radiators/
 
Clutch fans are not the best; fixed fans are a bit better, but something is off if you can't keep the car at ~200*. Water pump: is it a reverse flow by any chance? Did you test the thermostat? What temperature is your thermostat? Running a 160* thermostat isn't doing you any favors as the water keeps circulating without stopping in the radiator to get cooler.

Water puking is expected unless you have a coolant recovery bottle. Without one, the water level will be just about at the top of the internal ribs, about 3/4 to an inch below the cap when cold. Water expands when it gets hot so it needs to go somewhere.
 
Hmm, are you saying ~205 is too hot for the car to run? My car regularly runs at about 200-205 when warmed up, been running that way for years. The proper thermostat for these cars is 192, but you can usually only find a 195. So a 160 thermostat is way too low as mentioned.

I haven't had the Fitech handheld hooked up in a couple years now. Maybe I should hook it up and see how mine compares.

I second ECP radiators, very nice looking. It may require a few modifications to the mounts fit (much thicker then stock), but the quality is top notch.
 
Horseplay said:
Upgrading the radiator is never a bad idea. Go aluminum and possibly an electric fan and you will see a difference. The FiTech has a built in electric fan control which is what I used. Best radiator I've seen for our cars is from ECP. It's also one of the lower priced ones but don't let that fool you the quality is top notch. Wide two row cools great.
https://www.speedcooling.com/radiators/
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Thanks, which one is your radiator? Also does it come in a kit with everything? I might as well change the water pump and pulleys while I'm at it

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Boom said:
Hmm, are you saying ~205 is too hot for the car to run? My car regularly runs at about 200-205 when warmed up, been running that way for years. The proper thermostat for these cars is 192, but you can usually only find a 195. So a 160 thermostat is way too low as mentioned.

I haven't had the Fitech handheld hooked up in a couple years now. Maybe I should hook it up and see how mine compares.

I second ECP radiators, very nice looking. It may require a few modifications to the mounts fit (much thicker then stock), but the quality is top notch.
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So I've changed my temperature sending unit to a new one... Now I'm not sure how the thermostat would work, what my current oem one is and which one I need.

I live in a hot climate, summer temp would reach about 120F. Which one would I need?

Thanks for your help guys!

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Contact ECP and they can set you up with a complete system (Rad and electric fan). This will help greatly in installation. A shroud is also a MUST for you. As hot as it gets you need to make sure that all the air is pulled thorough the radiator to get maximum cooling effect. A 190 or so thermostat is what you want. That colder one is just wide open all the time. A thermostats job is to restrict engine coolant flow to allow the engine to reach and maintain an operating temperature. Too cool is bad for your engine. Being such a hot climate I think you will not only want but NEED the new aluminum radiator and fan.

Not sure what you mean when you say you changed your temp sending unit. Did you just do that now in trying to resolve this latest issue or was it changed before? Sending units are matched to the gauge they support so be sure you have the proper piece.

Here is a shot of my set-up. Notice how the shroud encompasses the entire radiator and the fan is integral to it. Also the overflow canister.
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Horseplay said:
Contact ECP and they can set you up with a complete system (Rad and electric fan). This will help greatly in installation. A shroud is also a MUST for you. As hot as it gets you need to make sure that all the air is pulled thorough the radiator to get maximum cooling effect. A 190 or so thermostat is what you want. That colder one is just wide open all the time. A thermostats job is to restrict engine coolant flow to allow the engine to reach and maintain an operating temperature. Too cool is bad for your engine. Being such a hot climate I think you will not only want but NEED the new aluminum radiator and fan.

Not sure what you mean when you say you changed your temp sending unit. Did you just do that now in trying to resolve this latest issue or was it changed before? Sending units are matched to the gauge they support so be sure you have the proper piece.

Here is a shot of my set-up. Notice how the shroud encompasses the entire radiator and the fan is integral to it. Also the overflow canister.
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Very useful thank you!

No when I bought the car the temp gauge was not working so I changed the sending unit which is this one
https://www.cjponyparts.com/HW1316/...lac_guid=c59bafb5-da01-e811-80d7-14187766af8f

Since then, my temp gauge works. This is the correct one for my car as my car is a June '65 build.

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JonnybravoM3 said:
So I've changed my temperature sending unit to a new one... Now I'm not sure how the thermostat would work, what my current oem one is and which one I need.

I live in a hot climate, summer temp would reach about 120F. Which one would I need?

Thanks for your help guys!

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I live in Austin, Texas, it gets pretty toasty here in the summer, too. Never had an issue using the 195* thermostat. If you don't know what thermostat you have, might as well change it. They're cheap (~$10) and easy to replace (2 bolts).

I haven't seen it mentioned are you using straight water for coolant or a 50/50 mixture? You might check the potency of your coolant. They sell little colored paper strips or there's a tool that tells how effective the mixture is.
 
NEVER run straight coolant. It is not to be used that way. Water is the best coolant. Anti-freeze/coolant serves to do a couple things primarily. First to act as an anti-freeze which in the Middle East I will suggest is not needed! Secondly, and important regardless of climate, is to act as a rust or corrosion inhibitor inside the engine. I would suggest, in your case, to run at least a 30/70 mix coolant to water. You can also include an additive like Water Wetter to further enhance cooling efficiency.

If you add an aluminum radiator and electric fan, however, I'm pretty sure all your cooling issues go away. I still recommend though you get a slightly richer AFR closer to an actual 3.6-3.8 and verify your timing.
 
I'll post a pic shortly of the coolant as soon as i get home...

I honestly don't think it's a thermostat issue here... My car is not an AC car, I bought it upgraded and PS and added an AC unit... Basically running 2 more pulleys now that the engine and fan have to keep up with. Think elec fan is Def gonna make my life easier...

I'm just curious why I never had this issue before I've had the car since January! Barely driven it tho thanks to all my upgrades but still, wherever I did drive it, it was fine but maybe because it's getting warmer now...

Re: AFR being lean.... isn't this somewhat normal when idle? Picture was not taken while driving. Not sure what the AFR becomes then...



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