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Bond on 67 Shelby scoop

R

rsalway

Member
First of all of you that have them, where did you get them? And second, what did you use to bond it on? I know that Rick had a good post on VMF a long time ago, but think it was deleted when it was changed.
 
The post is still there, but the picture links are dead, the pictures are in my gallery here. If you want anything specific that you dont see in the gallery, let me know.

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/555010-67-shelby-hood-scoop-question-2.html

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/590371-cowl-induction-hood.html

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where did you get them?
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I've used a couple different suppliers and this is my advice to you. Use the company's return policy as the basis for your decision. If a company isn't willing to return a FG piece, don't buy it from them in the first place. There are a lot of aftermarket FG suppliers and a LOT of the stuff being sold is poor quality. Find a company that stands behind their product and you'll be far better off. Understand that most ALL FG pieces will need some kind of work to get them to fit your car perfectly. It's very rare that a FG piece arrives in the mail and is ready to bolt/mould onto your car without some amount of work. Some pieces will require much more work than others. You may have to order and receive 2-3 pieces before you finally find one that requires only minor massaging and this is where dealing with a quality company is important.
 
Dave we are the only company in the world that guarantees our fiberglass to fit, and not only gladly refund your money, but will also pay the freight back to us. So far no one has sent anything back. Rich.
 
Thanks guys. Good advise from seasoned veterans. I appreciate it.

Rick, do you have a link to the MAF place that you bought yours from? Yours looks real nice.

Rich, that Fusor looks like they have a special adhesive for fiberglass to metal. That may be the route to go. I am going to try to find out what the epoxy that GM uses too.

Dave, didn't think about the return policy. Glad you said something.
 
I am wanting to do the same thing as Rick did.

My reasons are because:

1. I don't want to have to worry about the fiberglass warping.

2. I want to use the hood latch and springs.

3. With the steel hood I think the fitment will be superior to the fiberglass one.

Because of these reasons, I don't think the added expense of the hood and freight are worth it in my case. But, I do need some kind of scoop to clear the set up I have for an air cleaner.
 
"rsalway" said:
Rick, do you have a link to the MAF place that you bought yours from? Yours looks real nice.
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Its actually PAW, not MAF, I knew it was three letters, http://www.pawinc.com/

Let me say that mine does indeed look good, but over time it will most likely crack and I know that. I went this route mainly because the stock hood fit the car like a glove so there were a lot fewer hours in putting on the scoop than making a FG hood fit the car and worry about springs, warping, etc. The body man ordered the scoop from PAW because it was a solid piece and he was able to cut out the holes in front, leaving some of the material and not have huge openings.
 
Thanks guys. I am aware that it may crack over time too. I am planning on painting the hood a black or flat black, so if that happens, I can remove fix and repaint a little easier than if I were trying to match a paint color.
 
i would not use screws or rivets, over a short period of time you will see where they used to be. You would be better off tapping it down. I am in the process of making the long 67 style hood. We use 3 layers of fiberglass on top and 2 layers on the bottom side, and they weigh 44lbs. These company's that sell 24 lbs. are the ones that will warp. Rich.
 
Yes we could do that. I am raising the scoop 1/2 in for more engine clearance, and making it for grilles in the front so it will look really cool. Rich.
 
so if that happens, I can remove fix and repaint a little easier than if I were trying to match a paint color.
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Two things.....

Bonding FG to metal IMO will eventually lead to cracking, so it's not "if" that happens, it's "when" that happens.

As stated, black is just as much a color as any other color and has the same issues with paint matching during a repair.


FYI, I'm using a '66 Shelby style FG hood with the steel reinforced frame. I use OE hood hinges and lighter weight hinge springs. The fit of the hood right out of the shipping box is "factory perfect". After 3 years the hood has not "warped" and I don't suspect that it ever will.
 
Yep, it will crack....just a matter of when. Maybe do a bolt on.....no bonding used....no cracking.

As to the matching black paint, I believe the idea is to paint only the hood black. Any repairs would then allow for an easy repaint of the entire hood only, not having to matching the car or the rest of the hood.
 
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