• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Best Master Cylinder for 65 Disc/Drum

M

MarkStang

Member
I am seeking your opinions for what you would suggest I look at for my next MC. I wish to find one that will allow me to keep my current 65 brake peddle assembly. The one I have is a Granada Style (ugly) . Basically I want something Aluminum or Aluminum /Plastic that will look good and function well for my 65 FastBack Manual front Disc rear Drum set up. Thank you for your time. Mark
 
Are those stock 65 calipers?

If so, you could go with a 1" bore one of these:

master-cylinder.jpg


http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Aluminum-Master-Cylinder-Conversion-Kit-pr-23520.html
 
Welcome Nutzo. I was gonna say paint the granada one. But now that I look at Shaun's, I'm really diggin' it. Will that replace the granada mc using the granada conversion? I'm using the late '70's granada disc setup...duh.
 
Dont you have to run new lines to run that MC? The outlets are on the opposite side. I got one of those in the Baer kit and sold it cuz the plastic looks to late model for me, but to each his own.
 
You have to run new lines when doing the granada conversion also. If Mark just painted it he wouldn't have to. If he went with a different mc (like Shaun's) then he would. It's not really gonna matter to me as I'm re-running my brake lines anyway since the engine is out.
 
I have the CSRP Conversion. I do not mind running a few new lines. I do not have a flare tool though. I hate the thought of trying to figure out the sizes of thread stuff. I have seen the SoT one and like it. Will the bore work ok for my Disc front, original drum back? Or do I need a smaller bore. I also wonder about a residual pressure to the back. I am not even sure if the CSRP set up I have has one in the master. If not that would explain why I feel the brakes could be 30% better or so. I have only driven it to the end of my road and back with no hood or fenders and it seems a bit lacking. Would a pressure valve make the difference?
 
I've got a pressure valve but never installed it. I may do so when I re-run the lines. I'm interested to see if this mc fits also. Sounds like we have the same setup and yes, the brakes do feel a little "lacking". I would like to make it a little better also.
 
IIRC, the MC Shaun linked is made for disc/drum. It comes with the two lines, one end is flared on each line, you could rent or borrow a flare tool to do the other end. I had mine bolted in the car, but never ran lines, I just didnt like the look. I bought a stock looking MC from Mustangs plus, if I were to do it over I would get the SVO MC from the auto parts store and save some coin.
 
Yes, I suppose it is time to get a flaring tool. I see Schaun has nice Adjustable Strut too. Is It serviceable to be able to lubricate...anyone...Bular :)
 
"MarkStang" said:
Yes, I suppose it is time to get a flaring tool. I see Schaun has nice Adjustable Strut too. Is It serviceable to be able to lubricate...anyone...Bular :)
Click to expand...

I used that master cylinder with front discs, rear drums for a year while I developed a few rear disc brake kits. Worked great. You don't need a residual pressure valve to the rear. Yes, you will need to bend a few new lines. The ports exit engine side but I send you pre-flared lines and fittings for the master and standard 3/16ths fittings for the un-flared end. Bend and flare one of the lines and plumb it into your 'T' for the front brakes, the other one bend, flare and plumb it though a adjustable proportioning valve (http://www.streetortrack.com/Adjustable-Proportioning-Valve-pr-21709.html) then into your rear line. The master will bolt right up to a Mustang (and most other Ford) firewall with no modification.

I have some pretty nice Snap-On bending/flaring tools because I'm doing it alot but Autozone rents them for free.

The Adjustable Strut Rods feature teflon lined bearings with kevlar impregnated inserts for self cleaning. I tortured the very first prototype set for 7 years of many, many, many street miles and many laps around tracks on the West coast and Mid-West. I NEVER cleaned or lubricated them. I took them off last year while doing some other suspension testing and there was ZERO play in the bearing.

As always, please let me know if you have any other questions.
 
Thank you for the responses on the brakes and the struts, I have custom adjustable Hiem end rods made from 65 struts. I just do not want to drill to mount them the horizontal way. Shaun...later in January I will make an order.
 
"MarkStang" said:
I wish to find one that will allow me to keep my current 65 brake peddle assembly.
Click to expand...

There is only one brake pedal assembly for the for the '65/'66. Both power brake and manual brake cars used the same pedal. They didn't start using different pedals for the different applications until '67.

If you're looking for something that works great, is very cheap and looks stock, just get a '74 Maverick MC for disk/drum from your local parts store for about $30.

That's what I've got in my '66 and love it. Brakes take as little effort as the power disks in my '69.
 
Mark, I am so glad you started this thread. I have been thinking of tossing the rusty Maverick mc that I put on when I did the front disc brake upgrade with the granada stuff way back. That iron mc rusted pretty quickly. I really like the one that Shaun put up. That would make a nice stocking stuffer from swmbo for xmas...lol. :ecit
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top