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Angrypony is still cranking

Always learning........thanks

When in so deep to a problem, it is sometimes best to put things back to stock position and ensure that system is working. Then make changes again for the modification.
 
it should work once he bypasses the missing NSS. But yeah, I haven't seen a mini starter hooked up before... Kinda has two relays.
 
"Midlife" said:
Aha! Without a NSS attached or bypassed, no signal can get to the blue/red wire that is the signal to crank. You need to provide a jumper on the 4-pin connector to the two blue/red wires. Once that happens, the system should work correctly.

Now why didn't I think of that? Someone give me a dope-slap and give Tarafied1 a cookie!
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I was wondering what the 4 prong plug was for. How do I bypass it to see if it works? what all does that plu connect? Is it just to the neutal saftey switch on the tranny?

Thanks again everyone.
 
I believe the two male prongs are back up lights and the two female are NSS. Jumper the two females and the car should start, if you connect the solenoid like Craig and Mid mentioned
 
I did the bypass and no go. Basically the Right (firewall side) large post and the left small post S have no juice no matter what I do. I have two starter solenoids and tried both with the same result. I voltmetered the bypass and I'm good with juice from female to female. I have no idea why I can't show any voltage anytime or any key postion from the S terminal or the rightside large post...... any last thoughts?
 
okay, sorry it's not female to female. Looked at the wiring diagram. The connection is heterosexual, it's the two blue/red wires, one male and one female. Looks like yours are painted, might need a little paint thinner to clean them off or just make two jumpers.
 
You sir solved it. I ripped apart the dash and ignition area and tested all the wires with the volt meter. The female to female didn't do anything. As soon as I read your last post I tried it and finally the key turned the engine :craz Thank you all for everything. I would have never figured it out without the assitance of all of you. Thank you once again.
 
Sweeeeeeeet.... Actually the female/male connections make more sense if you think about it...sorry I steered you wrong.
 
Thank you all again.

Now I am going to have to replace the distributor and I am hoping to get it to fully start with the key. Then all I need to do is hook up the drive shaft, find a throttle return spring for my edelbrock, hook up the gas pedal, Figure out how to redo the drum brakes, get a brake master cylinder, figure out how to put tranny fluid in the t-10, and I should be able to move it around the yard.

I need to find a radiator to eventually because I know its not all that good to be idling moving the car with no radiator lol. The stock 68 is completely gunked from sitting for 20 years. I need to find a new radiator or figure out how to clean out the 68 to use for now.
 
Make sure the tranny fluid is 90W, not automagic tranny fluid!
 
tranny fluid in the t-10
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You mentioned earlier that this car was being built to take to the drag strip. Understand that the T-10 is the weakest possible transmission that will bolt up to your 351 Cleveland. The T-10 was not used behind any of the higher rated HP motor options and never behind a Cleveland. If you get the tires to stick on a hard launch.... you may want to have a trailer standing by to get the car home.
 
I would need to find a top loader? what are good 5 and 6 speed tranny's? World class t-5's? t-56's?
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Yes, yes and yes.... with the Toploader probably being the strongest for the least amount of money.

If this car is being slapped together mostly for strip runs, I stongly recommend an automatic transmission instead of a manual. There's no worse feeling than hitting third gear at 60 MPH and having the rearend break loose causing the car to get squirrely on you.
 
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