'67 3/8" fuel line with GW frame conn. tank to fp

[Jonk67]

Hi all, well I replaced my 5/16" stock fuel line on my '67 coupe with a 3/8" '68 (2pc.) one to match the sender and give a little more fuel to the 44 extra cubes I'm adding (better safe then sorry I figured) and I never liked the routing of the '67 line that was exposed across the front frame rail where the tire could throw rocks or road debris could smash it.

My delimma now is that the '68 line goes under the GW frame connectors (got the line first then the connectors) and is a tight squeeze which I don't have issue with but once on it will be trapped when the GW are welded on. I just spent $60 on this line after experimenting with 6ft. lengths of 3/8" tube and didn't like all the unions.

Do I
1. try to resell the '68 line and buy a '69? = another $70 and loose $ on the '68 line so more like $90-$100.
2. just use the '68 line and worry about it down the road if I ever need to cut it off (ruin it), I don't see this as ever being necessary, the lines stay on for ever and I can take the front half off if needed. I already drilled the hole in the front of the torque box for the '68 line.
3. do I resell it and get a roll of 3/8" alum. fuel line, bend it however I want and break even selling the '68 line?

I can say I'm pretty much set on 2. or 3. as I don't want to spend another cent on fuel lines...I like the route of the '68 line except for this pinch. Am I just stressing too much over this? I may have to put a channel 'dent' in the under body or the GW conn. to make sure there is no pinching during lateral stress and for peace of mind, thought of laying a piece of 1/2" steel rod on the conn. and giving it a whack to see if I can make a slight impression for clearance or the same to the undercarriage?

Here are pics of the test fit, I can slide the GW F/R a little and get more clearance, where is right for them? should they be level with the ground (engine in) or level with the subframes front and rear?
Thanks, Jon

 

[Fast68back]

I think what I would do is use the one you have, but buy a piece and adjust where it goes over the subframe connector. It looks as if there is a lot more room near the rear frame rail. I would rebend both pieces so they cross over where there is more room. Even if you have to cut the new line and add in a small piece and a couple pieces of rubber line.

 

[Jonk67]

Good option Rick, so rebend to drop before the emergency brake cable stanchion and run between the cable/frame where there is more room? Since it'll be hard to rebend this line exactly in one piece cut it where it'll go under and put the rubber line there? This would also allow me to remove in 3 parts if necessary for any reason. I take it a flaring tool will give me enough lip to slip the hose over and have it grab and not slip off the metal line?
Maybe I'll just bring the line to BJ's the first week of Jan. (4-8) and you can show me? bj
But we have to stop at 3 this time...or 4... :hom

Still open to other options so keep em' coming.
Thanks, Jon