Hey Mel, the 4 hooker is the wrong one? This is the one I saw on a YouTube channel.
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Shelby drop and lowering spring
- Thread starter 67stang
- Start date
Hey Mel, the 4 hooker is the wrong one? This is the one I saw on a YouTube channel.
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guruatbol
Always on vacation!
The one you want has two hooks on the bottom and a metal piece with a bolt head on the center shaft. The plate is like a fork where it rests on the top of the shock tower and tightening the shaft bolt which pulls the two hooks up and the spring will just stay in place.
The ones you have will compress the spring but you will have to remove it from the hole.
Duh, you are changing out the springs aren't you. The ones you have will work, just be safe. Make sure the spring is secured by the hooks well.
Mel
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The ones you have will compress the spring but you will have to remove it from the hole.
Duh, you are changing out the springs aren't you. The ones you have will work, just be safe. Make sure the spring is secured by the hooks well.
Mel
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You can use that spring compressor you have, it's just not the "preferred/safest" tool to use. If you plan removing the coil springs alot you will want the proper tool. Heck if you want, I'd mail you the proper tool as long as I get it back when you're done.
The best tool I've seen yet ( I have this one):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-73-Musta...ash=item3cd07510e4:g:tdUAAOSw9mFWHwya&vxp=mtr
The reason that compressor you posted is not the safest is that the hooks can spin on the coils and sometimes the spring can pop off the coils and go flying. The tool I linked bolts in at the top and bottom and takes the place of the shock. There's no way for anything to move around as its all secured.
Let us know how your project is going. The rear looks nice!
The best tool I've seen yet ( I have this one):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-73-Musta...ash=item3cd07510e4:g:tdUAAOSw9mFWHwya&vxp=mtr
The reason that compressor you posted is not the safest is that the hooks can spin on the coils and sometimes the spring can pop off the coils and go flying. The tool I linked bolts in at the top and bottom and takes the place of the shock. There's no way for anything to move around as its all secured.
Let us know how your project is going. The rear looks nice!
So if I do it this way: I assume the fork goes concave down on top of the shock tower. And once you compress the spring up you leave it compressed While you remove the upper control arm then de compress the spring?
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Patrick Stapler
Active Member
Correct...don't forget the duct tape on the fork.
The other auto store has the fork, and that seems so much safer. I think I will he that a shot first.
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guruatbol
Always on vacation!
I just buttoned up and test drove my 67 after replacing the springs, UCA and perches.
You will be much safer with the compressor with the fork at the top.
Mine sat compressed for a week while I waited for the correct UCA.
I used an air impact gun to spin them up and down when I removed and replaced the springs after removing the UCA. You can but don't need to remove the bump stop panel.
Mel
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You will be much safer with the compressor with the fork at the top.
Mine sat compressed for a week while I waited for the correct UCA.
I used an air impact gun to spin them up and down when I removed and replaced the springs after removing the UCA. You can but don't need to remove the bump stop panel.
Mel
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Thanks Mel. I was wondering about the panel.
How can I tell if I need new UCAs. I'm assuming the are good. I imagine if I just rotate them to make sure there is no slop and that they are not binding then I should be good?
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guruatbol
Always on vacation!
The shaft over time becomes off center. Alignment shops adjust things to compensate. When they get too far off center they must be replaced.
I thought you already got new ones.
Frankly if you are compressing the springs, you might as well replace your UCAs unless you have already done it. In that case we wouldn't be having this conversation.
Mel
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I thought you already got new ones.
Frankly if you are compressing the springs, you might as well replace your UCAs unless you have already done it. In that case we wouldn't be having this conversation.
Mel
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guruatbol
Always on vacation!
These are pretty awesome. Did you get different UCAs?So even though I'm returning these, they do seem pretty stout!
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Mel
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I decided just to do the Shelby drop instead of these. I purchased this fastback a year ago, many upgrades but also there are something that needs to be upgraded. Just visually looking at the UCA, they look pretty good and even have the 90-degree geese fittings
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guruatbol
Always on vacation!
Measure them to make sure they are centered.
I think you may regret not putting those on you sent back. No new holes required for the Shelby drop. I have the templates but opted to stay stock. I really didn't want any new holes in my shock towers. One side has been welded already.
Based on how deep you are going to be in it, you might as well change them out.
Mel
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I think you may regret not putting those on you sent back. No new holes required for the Shelby drop. I have the templates but opted to stay stock. I really didn't want any new holes in my shock towers. One side has been welded already.
Based on how deep you are going to be in it, you might as well change them out.
Mel
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The one thing I'm a little worried my UPC as it sit right now is about a 1/4 inch away from the rim, and that's with a wheel spacer.
So I don't know how the SPC control arm would fit.
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guruatbol
Always on vacation!
UPC, SPC?
Mel
Mel
The upper control arm that I sent back was made by SPC.
I
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Mach1 Driver
Well-Known Member
Go to the West Coast Classic Cougar site and see their spring compressor under tools. Its just shy of $100 but well worth it in safety.
Does anyone think my upper control arm will hit my rim when I do the Shelby drop and the drop springs.
Also when I get an alignment is it more then likely I will need to add shims? If so I will make sure the shop has them or I will order ahead of time.
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I think you have plenty of clearance. Get some shims. They're cheap. The odds of a shop having the correct style shim (any actually) are slim to none at best.
I still recommend you do the alignment yourself. Whoever you take it to has likely never even tried to do one on a vintage car like yours so their skill set is no better than yours. They are used to putting a car on a rack, having a computer tell them everything. Modern car alignment adjustments are simple, straight forward and easy. When they realize they need to pull control arms loose and slip in shims...likely over and over as they try to figure out how it works...I promise you they will get frustrated and at some point say "close enough!". If you do hire it out make sure you get to see the final set-up as it is measured on the car (I tend not to trust people
) And make sure your wheels are properly set/centered within the wheel opening.
I still recommend you do the alignment yourself. Whoever you take it to has likely never even tried to do one on a vintage car like yours so their skill set is no better than yours. They are used to putting a car on a rack, having a computer tell them everything. Modern car alignment adjustments are simple, straight forward and easy. When they realize they need to pull control arms loose and slip in shims...likely over and over as they try to figure out how it works...I promise you they will get frustrated and at some point say "close enough!". If you do hire it out make sure you get to see the final set-up as it is measured on the car (I tend not to trust people
) And make sure your wheels are properly set/centered within the wheel opening.
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
I found some guys here who work on the oldies as a hobby and are also alignment techs.
With a Shelby drop, get the desired specs you want from the internet. I remember reading about what they should be, print them out and take them with you. Tell them the factory settings are not what you want.
I think you should have plenty of clearance.
As for spring compressors, I rented mine from Auto zone. The charged my card $50 and when I returned it they refunded my card. So free rental for up to 90 days.
Mel
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With a Shelby drop, get the desired specs you want from the internet. I remember reading about what they should be, print them out and take them with you. Tell them the factory settings are not what you want.
I think you should have plenty of clearance.
As for spring compressors, I rented mine from Auto zone. The charged my card $50 and when I returned it they refunded my card. So free rental for up to 90 days.
Mel
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